rtune

I think you are right. I don't know how a japanese drivers put up with it - at least as it looks to me. geez, my compliance shop had an easy job for their $3k: gave me a compliance cat in a cardboard box and sign a bunch of paperwork!

it gives me a headache when stationary too. I feel like I'm going cross eyed. only by closing one eye (either one) does it look right. Stock, it is a split design, yes? I mean part of the mirror gives the kind of vision that makes the yanks put "objects may be closer than you think" stickers on it, but the other part is normal?

For some reason the drivers side mirror makes me see double when I look into it. My eyesight is pretty good, no glasses etc. Is this just me? drives me crazy. Passenger mirror is no problem. My other car has one of those split distance near/far mirrors and no problems with it, either..

The thing that gets me is the dyno showing the RPM x-axis - they calibrated their RPM "against the tacho"! unless a dyno shop tells me otherwise, I think standard operating procedure is to tell the dyno what RPM the tach indicates at maybe two speeds in the selected gear. So any error in the dial is going to be transferred straight to the dyno print. Anything else would require them to run a wire into the engine or obd port (nope didn't see that) or to have a whole bunch of correct presets for exact gearbox, diff, tire .. And this isn't +/- 50 rpm, this is an error of over 20% ...

Is your speedo on the money as well? At an indicated 60kph, I'm doing less than 55kph, and in 4th, tach indicates 2500 rpm, but the gear ratio calculator says I should be doing 2000 rpm at that speed (55kph) with 245/40s 18" So yeah, I think definitely that would explain the "late boost". (because it isn't so late if the tach is out that much). And as for checking it on a dyno by a pro, well, you know what? I've had a pull at croydon by Jim (no comment made), a pull at IS Motorsports (comment was it seemed like a power plot from t04s) and a pull at UAS to setup the boost controller (no comment on the very late boost shown). To be fair on all three places I didn't walk in saying "hey, why is it boosting at an indicated 5k? wassup with that? (and thats what i will now have to do). but I am a tad disappointed (and have spent $150+$150+$300 on dyno time so far).

no boost controller when I got it, definitely. omori factory, as it came. It is advertised as 450ps / 48kg torque at crank and appears to hit that on the head on the croydon dyno, with pretty good AFR but as you say I don't think boost was controlled flat: from memory it would hit 1.3 and be at 1.1 at the end. The ecu docs (in japanese) say something about 1.1 as well -- see attached. (you guys with japanese connections, a translation of this would be wonderful !) Now the factory solenoid is not connected, the HKS can hold at ~12psi flat (0.82 bar).. which was what I was trying to understand, and it sounds like the factory wastegate control solenoid was seeing action.

yeah, I was hoping URAS would chime in he is the man on these subjects, but this is indeed GTR, not GTT and the current ecu is a nismo R1 ecu, not the stock ecu. But the rest of the system is stock. as the car came to me, setup by nismo, it was boosting to 1.3 bar. But the wg actuator springs are not rated that high of course. Now that I think the stock solenoid has been disconnected for the hks ebc, baseline boost is much lower. So I was trying to figure out what the ecu was doing.

I'm pretty sure it is this far out .. the turbos which are gt-ss equivalents only climb over 1bar by 5000 rpm on the dash.. which is why I started to doubt the tacho in the first place. Is there another possibility, that the nismo dash is not broken, but this nismo ECU is outputting a different rev signal that is getting misread?

My dash indicates an idle of 1200 rpm (sounds more like 900). And in 4th gear at 60kph (speed checked by GPS) it indicates 2500rpm (but stock ratios for 6 speed and stock diff indicate this should be 2000rpm). The dash is the 320kmh nismo dash. How can it get it so wrong - is there an adjustment?

ah, so a japanese plug-in ECU such as a Mines, or a nismo, or whatever, might know an engine has better breathing so allowing more air to flow at each RPM point (this indirectly showing up as higher PSI than a stock car shows). Therefore if this boost control solenoid was deactivated, as should happen when installing an EBC, default boost can revert to simple actuator spring rating, and if the actuator spring rating is lower than the ECU indirectly wants, well, the stable PSI goes down from the "norm"? have I got that all straight?

In a stock R34 GTR the ECU, above 2400 rpm, sends duty pulses to a boost control solenoid near the left strut tower. What is the ECU doing? does it have a plan that is independent of where the stock actuator springs open, and if so what is that plan?

This is the torque and power graph (crank hp) that the setup SHOULD show. Unless I'm reading it wrong, torque is right up there at 4000 rpm, therefore the turbos hit full boost by then. I can see the same power shape from 5600 onwards on the croydon dyno plot, I'm just totally missing that fat midrange?

I agree with that. The whole thing of p-plates is pretty unique to australia. The rest of the world manages to get by with pretty easy licensing, and no special conditions or marks for new drivers, and the press doesn't jump all over each fatality involving young people. Yeah they happen from time to time, but there are so many other ways for immortal 20 year olds to let off steam, driving like an idiot and getting killed is just one of them. I'm wondering if particularly "out west" hoon culture is one of the few things bored kids can get involved in? And without more drag strips, tracks and economical advanced driving courses or competitions, kids get their kicks on the street because there isn't much other excitement going, other than getting wasted and glassing someone. There just isn't enough other things to do. In the new york area where I lived for years the roads are much more dangerous. Most people routinely speed and the cops turn a blind eye. There are very few speed cameras, the licensing system is a joke, and people are honestly pretty bad drivers all around. There are messy accidents from time to time but the press doesn't blame new drivers nor do they appear to be the source of all evil. I have to wonder why a 19 year old australian at 100kmh is considered lethal by the authorities but a 19 year old guido from new jersey can do 65 mph on the beltway past a cop without raising an eyebrow. It would be interesting to compare the stats. If a lot more aussie kids are getting killed and licensing and roads aren't the reason then society has a problem.. If the same or less are getting killed then perhaps the media is the problem, and we'd have to become a police state to reduce fatalities further.

17 replies for "Help Bad" and nobody has any ideas for me? Am I crazy in complaining about the spool on that dyno graph..

You can tamper with your gas and water meter as well, to avoid paying bills but nobody does it, because it is difficult and there is a high probability you'll be caught. Same principal would apply to a black box. And as for outrage. I think it would be a p-plate only scheme. If you can make it off your Ps you've earned the right not to be checked (by a machine, not a person) for infringements. There are a million cameras and we now must carry e-tags. You want more of that? a lot of it is aimed at young drivers on p plates. Perhaps if the bad actors were filtered out during the first year or two, there would be less pressure on increased privacy invasion aimed at everyone. But I know it won't be done because the government is hopeless at high tech solutions. They are seriously suggesting filters for all aussie internet traffic how can such bozos ever get a black box program off the ground?

Why not use some duct tape, a vacuum cleaner, and a tube that is small enough to feed down to where this thing is but either big enough to suck it up, or with a tip that is likely to suction the item onto it and hold it. Duct tape the smaller pipe to the end of your vacuum tube and away you go. Of course you'd need to drain any liquids out first.

The first picture is as I got the car, nismo R1 ECU, it is rated at 1.1bar however I think it was spiking to 1.3 then coming back to 1.1. Pretty much it shows the car making 120kw at 4400 rpm and 180kw at 5000rpm I wanted an earlier spool and to be able to control boost. So.. An HKS EVC6 was installed (today). and cam gears, new dyno runs. We setup two boost profiles, basically 16psi high and and 14psi low, (conservative). Ok now you can see the car hits * 0.68bar (10psi) by 4400 rpm (at which point it makes 120kw) * 1bar (14.5psi) by 5000 rpm (at which point it makes 180kw) and full boost is obtained at 5200 rpm. then (for both high and low) there is a _steady_ boost taper, losing 3psi from the high setting and 2psi from the lower setting. The other snap is from the HKS EVC6 manual which explains two likely problem boost profiles. The first is a spike, and the second is a taper, but only at the end. So what is the problem? I'm annoyed about two apparently contradictory things: late spool and continuous taper. Shouldn't it be hitting 1bar at the latest by 4000rpm? isn't that the whole point of n1/gtss type twins? Will a powerfc tune change anything? --------- specs: N1 engine, R1 turbos (same spec as r34 N1s). nismo AFMs, intake, weldina exhaust. The AFR is good: starts at ~13 then drifts down to just below 11s. by the way, on an initial hks evc6 setting of 11psi boost showed flat. 11psi all the way.

It would be cheaper and much more effective to install a black box in every car wearing p-plates that logged speed and location, stored it, and dumped the data once a month via 3g to a central computer that then analyzed for violations. the boxes could be tamper proof and issue a "ok" signal that cops would pickup when they saw a p-plate to make sure nobody was driving on a P with no box installed, or one that was screwed with. If they can monitor home detentions with ankle bracelets they can do it for cars and p-platers. they could analyze the data for a pattern of bad & dangerous driving, not small infringements.

You can walk into any nissan dealer with your full vin number and they'll order one for you. Might be a bit expensive. Or you can find one on auctions.yahoo.co.jp, (won't a regular r34 gtr be sufficient? v-spec ii has the same engine management, I think). http://search.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/sear...=0jp&acc=jp use importmonster or tokyobuyers (google them) to buy one. In the latter case, you can ask the buying service to contact the person listing and see if they will accept X% less.

how far did you get, where are you stuck. Have you removed the A/C control module yet (pulls right out, use a hook).. it maybe better to post this in the electronics forum where Chris Rogers can tell you if you make a bit more of an effort and post a picture of how far you have got.

Last time I asked i got the following reply "R32 - we can do any of them - RB20 or RB26. No probs there. R33 - can't do any cos they went to a Hitachi micro. R34 - we can do the RB25 but can't do the RB26 in the GTR." is this still the status? no RB26 in R34?

Unless my math is wrong, that is 0.05 diff, which is probably not important. Although I don't understand why tubing dia, visually pretty much right (how much was it wrong by?), created a shaft that looks as though it would not handle the torque of a civic, let alone 2000 hp. And what about the wrong sizes in the other direction.. is that down to the same malfunctioning individuals?

I have a copterX black angel (trex 450 clone - all metal and carbon). Amazing little thing. Fun to build and satisfying to tune for smooth running. Still learning nose in hovering, although I can do circuits and stuff in the sim.

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps_pa...php?page_id=250 This is an AMAZING amp.. small enough to mount under the seat, light weight for the power latest technology. I was going to go with two of these but changed to one and the HD700/1. Asking less than I paid in the US a month ago. You can't buy it for anything like this price in australia -- if you can find it, that is. I did a lot of research before picking this amp. Check out this video it shows the same amp (the HD750/1 is the same form factor). brand new in box. $900, free ship. Try your luck on ebay but pay $200 shipping. http://shop.ebay.com.au/?_from=R40&_tr...-All-Categories Rockford 360.2 crossover, new in box factory refurbished (no bluetooth failure likely now) asking less than I paid in the US a month ago, you won't find it in australia for this price. These units are magic. Fully configurable from a laptop or windows mobile device: map your sound exactly and get that crystal clear sound stage. Great add-on for STOCK sound systems, or convert your passive system to fully active. Reason for sale, not necessary to my setup as my head unit had an electronic time-shifting crossover already. brand new in box $500, free ship. Buy both for $1300

I don't agree. The Japanese economy is getting raped by a 90 yen to usd exchange rate. If Toyota is reporting a loss then other car markers are getting fubar'd !! All the crown jewels in the japanese economy are bleeding. They are forced to go back to zero interest rates (hurting the saving housewives) and I doubt many japanese still hold foreign stocks or currencies now - not after all these implosions and scandals. So basically the government is going to want to do anything to get then yen back to 100 to the usd.. however they have very limited tools to do that, interest rates being zero already. So they have to suffer. It isn't a matter about whether they care or not for gaijins, just like every other country they care most about their own economy and it is in real trouble now at these exchange rates. The banks may be safe, but the rest of the economy just can't take a 25% drop in exports for a sustained period. Unfortunately for us, though, improving things back to 100 yen or so to the usd would be considered a decent clawback by Japan but imports will still be crazy prices for us because we went from 99 cents to the US to sub 70 cents!