Shiraz200SX

just have to comment, thats very cheap. maybe wait a month, and re post at maybe 300 below retail, rather than half of it... people might think that they're stolen/broken/something wrong with them... but great amplifiers at that price...

i'll be your silvia tester if you want though.

sorry mate, he's after a car not a BOAT! but anyway, there is nothing cool about driving an old busted ass BMW, not one little bit. Unless it's a late model M Series, BMW's for the dick.

not plugged in the AFM's properly... clean the afm plugs with contact cleaner...

nah. fusion are cheap shit. even their expensive gear is crap. compared to other brands.

why waste time + money on an SAFC?? get a proper stand alone ecu, not that shit signal bender crap... by the time you've paid for the SAFC + dyno time you'd have been better off spending some more money and getting a R32 ECU w/Nistune + a Buddy Club VTC Controller.... cheap cheap cheap power....

my PFC flashes the engine light when my standard AFM is maxed out... if you d/l the english manual and check how its flashing you can tell what it is....

its a POS vectra, not even worth flogging it, unless you're going to do jumps in it, it probably wont spin the tyres... but JUMPS ftw.... unless you smash the gearbox on the ground and rape the car to pieces..

our fitter at work made 140db with a single 10... easy as.

holy shit, i knew dominator + fusion were suck ass, but not that bad! i live in central qld, and we hit 35-37 degrees pretty regularly, but i've never seen melted speakers... i guess its that most cars up here have tint... maybe try a layer of grille cloth under the speaker grill to shield it from the sun a bit better..

ah i didnt pay enough attention... i'm sure you could ask camtech if they can retain the vct... they have a range for the sr20 to retain vct all the way up to 280 w/11.5mm lift....

well, you could be a brand name fanboy, or you could go with an aussie made product and support your local.... http://www.camtechcams.com.au/niss_6cyl_rb20rb25nonvct.html cheap as chips and you get a warranty. give them a call and they'll point you in the right direction. i was shocked at the price of my sr cams when i got quoted, half the price of some of the jap ones i was looking at...

unless it fits perfectly, and the car is SPOTLESS when you put it on, IE no dust, dirt or surface contaminents, it will scratch the shit out of your paint.

$50. right now.

thats a really good way to make less bass. ALWAYS face the woofer towards the numberplate. Genrally always makes more bass.

hrmmm.. i didnt know that PDX were d class... interesting...

try unplugging your O2 sensor.. had the same problem, would hesitate before acceleration, then trying to cruise it would shudder... will run fine with it unplugged. i have a power fc now, and dont run an o2 sensor...

keen to see some horns in a car! don't see too many horns being used in australian car audio.

Nice deal on the IDA-X305, always liked that unit... good price on that for you there too! anyway, Alpine do a package deal that comes with: 1x MRP-F600 4x100WRMS 4 Channel Amplifier (yes, its a true 100WRMS) 1x SPR-17S 17CM Type R Component Speakers (tweeter positioning is something to think about, they're big suckers) 1x SPR-69C 6x9" Type R Coaxial speakers (Ask your dealer to swap them for SPR-17C for you, i know i do for customers, as the 6X9"s wont fit) comes to about $1300 RRP, and the pack goes for $999. works out that you get your rears for free. Good sounding speaker in the $349 range, you can get a speaker with a nicer high end, but the type r really does well, and makes a LOT of midbass. Mosoto: Since when are 4 channel amplifiers class D?

BWAHAHAAH! the day that pioneer made an amp that made anywhere near that power i'd be seriously surprised. 1. yes, you can run another set of those speakers in the rear 2. you wouldnt however, as it's a waste of money to put splits in the rear 3. go and buy a set of TSA1683S, perfect for your rear doors. a roof mount screen is fits to the metal light bracket behind the roof lining. it goes in place of the light. best roof mount on the market is the Alpine PKG-RSE2. $1399 RRP, comes with remote, 3x IR Headphones, 3 Year Warranty (when professionally fitted). Easily the best picture quality out there, and plays most pirate formats.

remove it and replace it. also, learn english + proper grammar + proper spelling. goes a long way towards getting help, otherwise you just look like a douche.

sell it to another p plater for them to enjoy. buy a turbo one.

personal preference my friend. i usually put some on the inner skin, then line behind the speaker with plain chant, then seal the door up totally, then put a sheet of dynaliner across the whole exoskeleton of the door. www.dynamat.com has some good tutorials on it.

that's your best bet. either that or try DNA (spl wholesale) or Stinger... they both do a few different harnesses. besides one from kenwood will only cost around $30 anyway.

trunk kit + 3mm dynaliner is all you need... i've tried those dynaxorb things in a few cars.. didnt get any earth shattering results. spend that money on some focal plain chant if you want to go further...