Travis Bickle

front bumpers are over rated. so are front wheels, bumper supports, IC piping. screw em. not speed equipment. keep it real and stay raw.

I am wondering which version it might be. decent size, the wastegate looks to have been added to it, as well as the elbow on the intake side so it can hook into an R33 wit han RB25... does it bolt to a stock RB25 manifold? what kind of boost is it capable of doing? injector upgrade needed? can a stock ecu run it? i searched td06, found a lot of unrelated stuff and i cant identify which td06 this is. thanks in advance for any help.

you could just use rubber bands. i have seen it done. you guys are seeming to think i am the one saying "my hks bov got installed and now my car stalls at red lights" i am just speaking in generalization and observation.

honestly man, google is your friend in this situation. just use the search "specialty hardware" or change hardware for fasteners. youll get a billion sites that have tons of anodized beauty washers for your fenders, radiator support, headlights ect. i just did it because i prefer using T-handles on things that are low torque anyway.

oh thats an awesome theory. putting rb20 rocker covers on it is downgrading it. so, ill dig up some rb26 rocker covers and upgrade it instead. thats brilliant. come on man, if you dont have an information, dont bother posting, or be big enough to say "ya know, i dont fuggin have a clue" unless you just want to up your post count, and if thats the case, just post a big smiley face so at least we know what youre trying to accomplish.

Yea, Honda-tech is really bad about this. We call it regurgitation. second hand information. i.e. "this camshaft works great in this motor" (they have never owned the motor, or the camshaft, let alone dyno'd the set up)

Sorry in advance if i sound like a whiney bitch. but over the last 7-8 years of being a member of a ton of car forums, i have grown tired of a little handful of thing. 1. When a question is asked, the thread goes 4 pages and is never once answered straightly because no one can say "i dont know" or better yet not poast at all. EXAMPLE: My HICAS is broken, how do i diagnose and fix it? 4 pages of answers: "hicas? i took mine out" / "hicas sucks" / "hicas makes your car squirrely when drifting, take it out" and my favorite "search" 2. The age-old "search" guy. no one can say "i dont know" so they say the direct translation. "search". EXAMPLE: Whats the output voltage of your stock fuel pump? first answer "SEARCH" (6 keystrokes) second answer "12.2" (4 keystrokes) hmmmmm 3. Assholes. Example: "does anyone know how much boost teh R33 gtst makes stock?" answer: "yes" i see this a one a TON lately. whats the point? up your post count? feel cool? all i am saying is, there was a magical, mystical, fairy-tale like time, back in 98-00 when a question could be asked, and answered. those days are long gone. join "nico" and youll pull your hair out in 3 minutes.

the website is blank, at least on my computer at work. anyone have a direct email for the guy? i want some R33 fender flares

This is probably of no help but, here in Japan, the home improvement store by my house sells stainless hardware in packs of 50 or so, 10 and individually. i replaced all my 10mm hex heads with M6x20 dome top stainless allen heads and washers. i dont think i have hardly an oem bolt/nut in my bay except what is directly attached to the motor itself.

The irony here is thick, folks. Very thick.

so, in theory, the raised section isnt there to clear anything, its there to ventilate. i wonder if there would be any negative effects of putting the 20 covers on the 25det. i would think something like this would have been addressed somewhere on the internet but it just isnt.

anyone know definitively what fits on what? i would like to put RB20 ones on my RB25det personally, but the DET ones have a lump in the rear, i guess for the VVT so im not sure if it would clear RB20 covers.

I have a Profec spec2 and a HKS fuel cut defencer on my RB25 and im happy. if you fiddle between the 2 with the fuel cut elim and the gain on the boost control, you can get it to snap into boost real early. big kick in the paints.

DIY headwork is such a touchy subject on the net because the people who know, want to keep their trade a secret for financial reasons, so they can still charge 1800 dollars a head. but in their defense, there is a lot more to it then just grinding your ports larger. personally i do not know much more than gasket matching, and i do know that 75% of headwork is a real good valvejob. so i guess my answer is gasket match your manifolds and head it with air tools, then drop it off at a machine shop for a 5angle or radius cut job and a hot tanking. maybe move the splitter back and sharpen it a tad. i played with hondas for a long time and i know that the top guys all widen the floors but i dont know enough about an RB head and how it flows to say the same.

Just go up to Nagoya and wait til ol' shotgun Tezuka balls one up and offer to take the parts off their hands. Craziest bastard in D1 by a long shot. to the OP, i have seen you have asked about 34 widebodies a couple times. you can piece and pick and put together your own "kit" if you keep your eyes peeled. im sure you get option magazine in OZ. there are about 15-20 different body part vendors in there. you would be suprised how good it could look if you snag for example, and abflug rear bumper, dmax front fenders, vertex rears, ect ect, then paint the whole car satin black and throw some vynil on it and youll be shitting all over that sunline car. just look around. a lot of the companies like tra-kyoto are just piecing together other peoples stuff, adding a part of 2 of their own and calling it a kit. but i urantee that sunline kit is at least 5 grand.

I see a lot of dynos with GT30 sized turbos, and they make for a nice curve to 350ish RWHP. but are there any floating around with GT40s and 42Rs? something large, with maybe 500ish RWHP. i dont see to many on this site.

I just checked out sunlines's site and by the looks of that kit, and judging by what some of the other big name kits cost, i am going to venture to say that kit is about 5 grand and would have a 6 week lead time as im sure its made to order. F that. but i could be completely wrong, maybe its 900 bucks and available on ebay and just LOOKS like a 5K JDM GT quality kit. reference: the BeeR R34 front end kit is 6500 bucks or more.

i have been eyeballing the Abflug flares, and thats probably what ill end up getting. they are for the GTR but im sure theyll rivet flush on a gtst. R33 GTSTs are just so narrow, and look like pencils going down the road.

I dunno if youre trying to be a smart ass or not, but the other point of a 1J is they are laying around here for 800 bucks. RB26s......arent. these things have a cult following here and you have to pry cold dead fingers off them.

fix em with JB weld

i would call it a lot less temporary that electrical tape on a hot motor. if applied correctly i would not even call it temp.

to the guy who asked if i am in japan the answer is yes, i live here. (japan) i looked into a few things, and when i said 1J i meant the jzx100 model, which is the single turbo with VVT-i, which would alleviate most of the brake booster. like i said, the toyo guys are running this in an RPS chassis so... as far as the markII and its variants, they are dog shit cars. the japanese kids cant give them away here, they all drive 180s or older model laurels with SR swaps. thats around my area at least. im thinking with a custom turbo mani to place it a little closer to the front of the engine, youd be fine. Manabu Arikaki, who just retired from Top Secret as one of their fab men, lives down the road from me and still does fab work on the side. making the intake and exhaust manifolds would be pretty easy for him, judging by the supra he has LOL. this, in my mind, was strictly a "if my RB has a hole in the side of the block" scenario. im thinking the sound is due to the short stroke as well. im not after the sound though, im after a better flowing head, but if you guys are saying the RB is a little better above 400...

C&Y motorsports (theyre in this months option2) is right down the road from me and they have a 1J sitting there with a manual tranny. i have always loved how ripe these things sound (like an old boosted F1 motor) in comparison to the RB25 (like a tractor on steroids) and looking at some of the 1J dyno results on the yota forums and in the option mags, it would SEEM like its a tad bit more potent that the RB25, at least. with that being said, the "team toyo" drift car, not kawabatas, but kuroi's, is running a 1J that he pulled a RB25 out to put in. anyone running one in an R chassis car?

last night, boost spiked a tad to about 15psi (a little over 1bar) and "fwack!". i didnt hear any metallic noises so im thinking nothing got sucked up thru the cooler and into the throttlebody, maybe the exhaust side just flew off. drove about 1/2 kilometer home in "NA" mode i have 2 series1 turbos sitting in my closet i grabbed for 80 bucks a piece so i was sort of waiting to see how long it would take running at 14-15psi all day before it blew. the answer? about a month. the only thing i am curious to is: my car is a series 1 R33, but my motor, has no coilpack unit attached to the rocker arm covers so either i have a series 2 motor (unlikely) or the car is one of those "series 1.5" possibly? the reason i bring this up is, the turbo that just blew may have been one of the nylon wheeled ones.

where do you get off making condescending remarks like this? must be a moderator thing, "sport".