Nismo 3.2ish

Thanks Mick I will fire an email off tomorrow and ask them if they beefed it up when they installed it. If not I will get them to do it. He did say the 460 would make it difficult to get more out of the tune, I thought the Sard 700CC injectors that are in the car would be something that would stop them from getting a better result than the pump , but?

Will do Luke I check it daily after a drive and watch the gauges all the time and up until now it is all good. Took 100ml after 60klm trip. I will make sure it is all checked out and the problem found and fixed at the final tune. But happy there is no major problem that would/did stuff the donk

Just about ready to have my final tune in a few weeks on a Nitto 3.2 stroker build, I have a Walbro 460lph fuel pump and was wondering if it will be enough to handle around 400awkw, this will be a torquey car I have decided to change the injectors to ID 1300CC before the tune and running a PT 6262 CEA turbo. I have looked around but could not find any info on this combo, I am sure it would be better with 2 X 460lph but not sure to do it before the build or wait and see how it goes ?

You must have something very special in mind if you are selling THAT HEAD ! You said it was the best head job you ever had

That hurts,lol

Got the car back from the build and had a look at the injectors , Paul suggested they could be the Sard 700cc, had a good look this morning and they look like the Sard 700CC , light blue top with a black body. Decided to have the ID 1300CC installed before the final tune. Using the Walbro 460Lt , it should be interesting to see how it tunes , if I ever need more just add another one. I will ask the builder what Voltage is running the pump at the moment, this seems to be a problem if the set up is not good enough. Have the Haltech R34GTR Pro , should help with the Haltech Flex fuel sensor should we ever get E85 here, But I can get it in a few places close ish (180Klms) or if I go to Sydney and should not have to worry about the mix. Never stop learning doing this type of thing, guess there are plenty of mistakes to be made , but reading and listening to you blokes really helps, thanks

It was 1.25Lt , I used a measuring cup that goes to 250Ml. Just been to the mechanic and he said the pressure seemed OK and the coolant was a very weak mix. I had taken out scoops of water off the top of the radiator over the past few days and there was an oily look and feel to it, but now it has all but gone. If they would have contacted me when I first asked about the water loose and told me they used a tan ish type coolant it would have let me sleep a little better over the past 3 nights Just did about 60 klms and when it cools down a bit I will see how the water is, fingers crossed. Not sure if I am being paranoid but the aircon air smells a bit oily , think I need a life

HI Peter , nice name As you can see in the reply to Mick , I think it is all under control, so I can put the rope and razor blades away and get on with living Thank you for your advice, it was good Pete

Hi Mick, I needed someone from there to talk to me, I did not want to cause a problem by doing the wrong thing. After a few days I was getting the shits with no guidance from the builder. I did a cold start with the cap off yesterday and one big bubble went burp, I watched it for a while and no other big or small bubbles and it seemed to be flowing OK to me. I have had a gasket go many years ago and there was all sorts of turbulence going on . Just spoke to Jim and he said there was coolant in it , but a different colour, tanish , not green and not to bother with flushing it. If I wanted to pressure test it that would be OK but just a waste of money tipping the coolant out. Wish I knew this a couple of days ago As it had no water in the oil, oil pressure a steady 50 and the temperature just under normal, the motor seemed fine, starts hot or cold and runs without a problem. Could have been air pockets, I am going to let my mechanic have a look anyway, but not to do anything , maybe pressurize the coolant system and then wait till I take it for the final tune next month. Jim said if I wanted a lot more torque I would have to beef up the fuel side of things. I have a Walbro 460Lt on it now. Said it would be easy to get more top, but that's not where I want it and I am sure the power I get from what is on it will be more than enough for me as a DD, I think I said that before As he does not know the cams he is not sure what they will be like after dialling them in. From what the boys have said I think he will be surprised

I am going to ask my mechanic here to flush it out once I get the OK from CRD. There is a small chance that it is OK, But getting the OK seems to be harder than I thought. As soon as they are open I will be trying again to get an answer as to what I should do, you would think in a case like this someone would take 2 minutes away from what they are doing to help sort this out ? I would think it is in their best interest to have something done ASAP in case some real damage occurs ??????????????????

Being 350 klms away can be a pain. Those professionals can be a pain when you cannot get an answer to serious questions to do with your motor you just spent a shit load on They used ARP 1/2" head stud set and ARP main stud set

Year Bob, but as you say it could be an easy fix, if not, so be it

LOL Give up when you can see the end, I do not know how to do that

No probs, shit happens. I would take it to the mechanic here to flush it But I want an answer from the shop first

Nothing, I cannot get an answer to some questions I have been asking for days. I have been giving them a blow by blow on what is happening with the water , I just want them to tell me what I should do Could have been air pock/s and some crap in there somewhere. There was no coolant used. I just want to get the go ahead to flush it and see what happens.The water is a bit tan ish , with a touch of oil I think, farking cars The car is driving the same as it was when I left the work shop, no water or steam coming out of the exhaust. No pools on the ground There is no water in the oil and the oil level is the same as it was 900klms ago ? But has used 1 Lt of water

Cars faaarked, looks like a head gasket has tossed it in, I farkng hate cars

Why keep stuffen around, piss the White Whale off and get an EVO, save you a fortune Not all bad I will give you $7k for your OS88, this price is based on the fact that by the time you get it, it will be obsolete

You have some patients

$101

Thats a bit rough, poofs are OK But watch this space, he will start something else as he was getting too close to finishing it and I think it would have scared her

Since the work I have been driving it for around 700Klms, still on tune in, limiter @ 5000rpm Had the, clutch, Quaife front diff and the modified transfer case done at the same time. When I pushed it, it feels balanced and just glides around the sharpest bend. Not sure what is doing what, trannie or Quaife as both were installed at the same time. Already had a Nismo 2-way LSD in the back (No Noise or clunking , ever ?). The new coppermix C Spec clutch is a dream felt funny as it engages very high compared to the OS Quad I had in it. Being a short arse I can move the seat back a couple of notches and get a better driving position. I will push it a bit more once the final tune is done and the full power is on the road. I'm sure Paul could test it out and give a better run down on the Pros and Cons of the mix when he has the chance, Even for a non racer boy, it feels good and you can notice it on a DD. This is what they did.. Cost $1350, UPGRADE TRANSFER CASE WITH NEW ADDITIONAL CLUTCH PACKS .( APPROX 30% MORE CLAMP AREA ) FOUND BROKEN THRUST WASHER, BROKEN NEEDLE BEARING AND BURNT OUT CLUTCHES AND METAL SANDWICH PLATES WHEN UNIT WAS STRIPPED DOWN. REPLACE COMPONENTS. INCLUDING SEALS.

Year dont knock the Tiida. Mine is behind that black car

I have only had my Coppermix C Spec Twin for a short time but it is so good to drive and if it holds the power as the boys have said ( I believe them) it is a great clutch and worth paying the extra $s to get it, as it will save you money in the long run.. These blokes have driven hard Klms with this clutch, most over 4000AWKW

Measure the strut position this morning and it is OK, 3 inch clearance. The strut can go under the water hoses and I will have to modify the water tray to go over the hoses, DONE, well maybe , lol

I thought he said they lowered the mounts by 12mm or 18mm, not sure, but think he said it was still about 38mm higher . I had made a tray system to stop the water going over the motor through the vents of the Z-tune type bonnet, the idea of water pissing all over the motor just seems dumb to me, so he had to cut a small section out of it to close the bonnet, easy to fix and does not affect it anyway, just have to do a few tests to see what happens with the water now if it is pissing down. The photo shows the rain tray and the old strut brace They are going to see what they can do with the strut when I go in for the final tune and if they cannot use the original one I will hunt one up. Seen a few flat types that should do the job. Are you saying there are custom strut braces for these builds, if I need one where can I get it ?