wrxhoon

Pete GTSS's are much smaller than 2530's , they are baby turbos and will run out of puff at top . I run 16psi in my 34 ( totaly stock, unopened engine ) and it drops to 15 psi above 7000 but they spool up almat like my stockers. Actualy the only reason i replaced them was the ceramic wheels, i dont want them to let go and destroy my donk . Unless you are thinking of the bigger housing GTSS's like the ones used in SR20's, not sure on them and all but one set of the twins ( RB26 sets) i have seen are the small comp housings .

165 is about right but it depends on the gauge the battery( how quick its spinning the engine)and how it was done, like WOT and engine in normal operating temp. If all cil have the same comp thats a good indication of a healthy engine . When the engine gets older if the top end ( valves ) is in good nick and totaly seals then compression would be higher that when it was new, because of carbon built up .

It depends on how they did the conversion if you can reconvert them or not . Usualy they cut the cable that goes to the globe inside the light, if they did that, they cant be reconverted with the orginal balast. If the cable has not been cut ( they just cut the plug and you can still get to the cable ) it can be reconverted easy using the existing balast, plug and globe. If you are in Sydney give me a p.m. if you like, i can do them for you for $100 if you supply the balast, plug globe and h/lights.

How did you go with the air cond water discharge pipe? Did you remove it? Did you have to dodify the coolant and vacium lines at the rearof the block so you could fit the rear o2 in te dump? One advantage with these dumps the front pipes are very easy to R+R. I find that my GTSS's come on boost slightly later than my stockers did (r34 ball bearing) and they have a little more mid range and top. They are not big turbos by any means .

Are you sure its the valve train ? Not big end bearings ?

A leakdown test may tell you if the problem is c/head, bottom end or both . Did this happen suddenly ? Is she blowing blue smoke ? Are the turbos still there in one piece? If it happen suddenly you may have lost an exhaust wheel on the front turbo and she sucked some ceramic dust in. If that was the case she would be blowing plenty blue smoke . If it happen suddenly it wouldnt be h/gasket unless you got her very hot . As for timming belt jumping a few teeth and bending valves, maybe but when you hit valves you bend them enough not to have any compression. Take the front cover off and check the cam timming, just put the bottom crank pulley on TDC and see if the cams line up with their marks . Like Duncan said even cil head is a big job on a GTR, its very hard to pull off on the car, you are almost better of taking the engine out to do it .

Good to see you are not taking any risks this time around, make sure your crank guy is someone you can trust to do the job right ( a lot dont ), i always check it myself when i get it back . Bearing clearances are very important too, make sure you check or have someone check them for you . Dont rush things , take your time assembling and checking more than once and you will be right this time . Are you reboring the block ? If i was you i would ..

If your key has a chip in it you will need a key with a chip again , unless you remove/disable the factory immobiliser. Why not just get a 34 GTR key ?

Thats the reason i dont use them ( they take to much space in my shed), i use a chainblock , it doesnt take much space !!

You tell him ..... Ah well we all learn by our mistakes. Good luck with it this time, if i was you i'll check the crank for runout as well.

Where do you get a rear c/f defuser for a 34 GTR for anywhere near $1500? Go the RB 30 dett mona

They have a chip in them that activates the immobiliser .You can get blanks from Nissan and cut your own, actualy i think you can get aftermarket blanks too . A locksmith will cut the key to suit your lock and if they have the software they will program it, if not go to Nissan and they will do it .

For what you want them for, you cant go past GTSS's. I have them on my 34 on a stock , unopened engine and with stock cams, they will give you plenty mid range for the track . They will run out of puff above 7000 rpm, mine drop from 16 psi to 15 psi up high . The GTSS's are comparable with my stock 34 turbos, very little difference in response and a little more up high . Car is still good for 11.8 @ 117 mph in the heavier 34 body with the aid of a 6 speeder . I had Nismo N1's in another car, more power up high but much less response . If you thought 2530's are laggy, GTRS are a bit laggier still .

As long as you supply him with the 33 /box and its push clutch and slave . You will need the flywheel from that car as well. If i was you i would use a new clutch ( unless the used one you have is almost new , that will save you pulling the box out again to replace it . Isk your mechanic how much he will charge you before you give him the job and if he is to expensive shop around .. Good luck with it .

Dont you mean less than 30,000 ? Plenty 10 yo cars in Japan with less than 100,000 but they dont come here, we mostly get higher k's cars here .

If you have a complete car ( wreck)there you should be right, you will only need a console(34) and a manual cluster ( 34). The box , flywheel and clutch , slave and pies will fit but you will end up with a push clutch ( 34's have pull) . Are you doing it yourself?

I take it you have an auto 34 and you want to convert it to manual . So far you have a 33 g/box, a 33 clutch, and a clutch master cil. You need the flywheel , fork and release bearing ( if you dont have it).When you say pedal , i take it you have the complete thing including the pedal box, you need the slave cil, the pipe that goes from the muster to the rail near the slave, the flexi pipe from the rail to the slave, the console , shifter, cluster thats all i can think of at the minute but i'm sure i missed something ..

I think you maybe correct Duncan, he needs a engine crane, that makes sence , one day out and one day to put in . Even then it doenst pay him to hire because you can buy them for under $200( again shit Chinese but will do the job ).

The ad says 99 model , so it cant be V-specII , she also has yellow indicators but it looks like she may have a c/f v-spec II bonnet ( a little hard to see on the pic )

Just buy one, they are very cheap ( shit Chinese but will do the job), lightweight 450 kg for $80 .. I dont know how you say you only need for a day though, you are going to use it to rebuilt the donk, arnt you ?

Good to hear you are all ok mate . The falkens you are talking about look like a mud and snow tyre but i could be wrong as i havent seen them before .

Ah realy and i thought they couldnt be done !! How wrong was i . Well it wouldnt be the first time . One thing at least it stops the amateurs clocking the mechanical oddos and stuffing them up . At least only pros will be able to wind these back. I guess i could be wrong there too .

I dont know if they will suit a GTT but fairly sure they will fit. I bought then in Japan about 18 months ago with the intention of using them in my 34 GTR but the stockers are hard enough for me and i never fitetd them on . They came off a 34 GTR v-speck II and the car had 20, k k's on it then, i was told they were on the car for about 10k k's .

Good luck in your search. For that you wouldnt even buy halogen lights, try yahoo auctions Japan to get an idea of what they sell there for .

Love your work BB...