The Bogan

I'm getting a adjustable feed for my 25/30 oil control problem, it is externally adjustable and will be set so when at high rpm the oil will be high enough for cooling and lubrication but will not overflow, by rights this should still see enough oil at low rpm to feed my lifters. With my 2 head drains and the drain from the can to the sump hopefully the oil is going to stay in the motor. Hopefully.

Skoils

BEWARE, I had 2 x 1mm restricters in my 25/30 and would fill the catch can and overflow it using a TOMEI pump reving to 7000 rpm down the straight at Wakefield, it had head drains and a return to the sump drain from the can, do lots of research on this, you may be fine using a standard pump though, just don't rev the standard pump to hard though as they are known to fail if reved too high, look in the forced induction sticky frequently asked questions and do all the oil mods if you can. Lots of good info from Sydney Kid if you can get around the thread wars. Good luck.

OIL CONTROL.

If my car is finished I will be there, Howe yours now mate, all sorted ?

If that's Yavuz from UNIGROUP I'm pretty sure he's still coming, we were talking about it the other day.

I am trying to get there for a look only, sounds like a fun event with a field of Allsorts.

This may be a contender for post of the year, or the Darwin awards, it justs needs time to cure.

The flames coming out you exhaust may bring some unwanted attention, also the amount of dead green houses left in your wake. Do you actually know how it works ? Track only I would say.

I played the old one which was good for the time, the new one is way behind everything else, I was waiting for it for ages and was extremely disappointed, game felt like it was built in the 2000. I was expecting it to be at least as good as DOOM was. 1 out of 10 massive fail.

It would change the dia by a small amount only, didn't you guys do geometry at school, think of a tree that is 10 mtrs high, standing upright it is 10 but when on a lean it is slightly less high, the length though doesn't change but the height does, the ground is the fixed point as in the rim being the fixed point. Dia may be changed by a mil or two maybe, post up the height of the side wall and the size of the gap from vertical.

Hammer on a old slightly small socket

The more boost you run the smaller the gap needs to be, the high pressure will blow the spark, if you need to lower the gap to much you will not get a big enough spark to ignite.the mix, you fan get electronic thingamagigs to boost your spark

From what I've read they are a extremely sorted car straight out of the box for what they are. Anything with a big body kit looks like arse from where I'm sitting, unless its a race car of course. If my daughter wanted one I would buy it for her. I was bored and Googled them, stock seem fine but modifications on them seem to be troublesome. Reliability seems good. Seems like a great choice for a P plater. Haters are gonna hate.

You want the gap as big as you can get it without missfiring, try 1mm then if that still missfiring go down to .9mm, and so on and so forth, if its still missfiring anylower than .8mm at 15lb you may have other problems. aie.

I'll he watching them rubbing one out rubbing one out.

Stickers

PHYSICS, letting your exhaust flow will reduce backpressure thus letting your turbo spool more freely. More boost=you need a smaller gap on your plugs, if its coughing at high rpm try reducing the gap to .9 and see if that helps, maybe you need more fuel ?, take it to a tuner and check it out, its the only safe way.

Oh snap.

So running high boost is living in the past now, well let's see how my new old style TO4Z goes with 25+psi rammed down its guts, I think I'm going to enjoy living in the past. On topic, my old stock turbo ran at 14lb for 12months, when it was pulled off (pulled off he he) it was fine, just luck or regular servicing ? Maybe a bit of both, I was expecting it to blow so I upgraded to a China spec, it was good for a while but hit its limit of around 300, now I'm getting a T series which should keep me happy once some lbs has been thrown at it.

Dont get to wrapped around the axles with tread wear ratings, the manufacturer does its own testing and write what they want really, also old stock will be dried up and hard, check date of manufacture. I wouldnt buy tyres from Australia anymore when I can get tyres for $160 in the US that cost $450 here, and even with $350 delivery fee it still cost less, $990 as opposed to $1800. Until I can get them for the same price my money goes to helping the US economy. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?skipOver=true&width=265%2F&ratio=40&diameter=18

A1RM,s, they do get a bit noisy when on the street but after a bit of work are good to go and quite again for a couple of hundred K,s on the street. With DBA 4000 rotors they have been faultless, albeit I only do springs.

Yes.

Save your money, buying from a yard you will be paying top dollar for a average car, also interest will add 30% to the price, and then you will need full insurance, factor in a grand or two for that if you can get it due to your age or mods on the car. If you buy privately you may be able to buy a better car for less money, its a buyers market. Don't buy a rolling defect with a body kit and 20" rims, buy a neat car with sensible mod,s, its better to have a car that looks stock but goes,stops and handles than a car that looks like its from FnF but gets blown at the lights by someones mum in their Camery.

I have one. No I don't,I have a 044, I'm such a liar.