The Bogan

10W-40, The motor has done maybe 2000k of road use, and only about 12 laps at Wakefield 3 sessions of 4 laps super spints and 6 laps of Eastern Creek (but in the wet), so not even getting hot, catch can is being redesigned as more of a oil air seperator style of thing and restricors are being changed to a 1 mm at the rear (whats in there now) and blocking the middle one (has a 1mm in here), the VCT drain is being reconnected and the drains are being rerouted to the left hand side of the sump(VCT has a 1mm restrictor). Hopefully that fixes the problem, if the lifters get noisey the spring will go back in the Tomei pump to give it some more oil as it was removed to try and stop the oil surge before but that was unsuccessfull. Goes in again tomorrow for the next week or so. So with a new TO4Z, recoed gear box, new clutch and the oil under control I may be able to get some fun hot laps in with the new motor, finally. Hopefully.

Ask your local police officer

Street tyres are a go go.

Still got it. Buy it now

Lots of nice bits and pieces. Review please if anyone has purchased from here.

Your local motor authority, In Sydney, NSW the RTA has alot of stuff on the web site, you just need to spend a couple of hours searching.

Carbon wrap reminds me of another thread here "GTR badges on GTS-Ts" Cheap, but does go well with the imitation alloy checker plate floor mats. LOL at people dising the "wing"

Price drop to $100

Mine was fine in a GTST

Wrap it, if it cracks in a coulpe of years get a new one and wrap that, also efective tape/shielding on local parts works for me. Wet it first and wear gloves and long sleeves, that s hit is itchy.

Will be blocking the middle restrictor in a couple of weeks, so only a 1mm at the rear and the 1mm at the VCT, the TOMEI pump pumps coupious amounts of oil, we will see if the lifters like that if not then may need to go solids, will hit the track ASAP after fix and post results, as for the leak down Ive been told for a forged engine with the rings that have been used (hard ?) that 15% is OK by as many people that say its not, LOL. A guage was put where the dip stick goes and at WOT there was not a significant amount of pressure in the sump. I suppose every engine is different in its own way, it goes like the powers of piss, I just need the oil to stay where its meant to. On a side note my syncros came out the drain hole when I changed the oil in the gearbox for some Redline, not sure if the Redline will mask the damage anymore, LOL. Fingers crossed. Mark

Yes, any fines on the car may come back to you.

Wheels sold, still got seats and a MOMO steering wheel MOMO link http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/370588-momo-race-steering-wheel/page__p__5908033__fromsearch__1#entry5908033

Gets a lot of blow by when cold but when warm its a lot less, tolerance was apparently in spec for the piston and rings used, wisco piston if I'm recalling right. And yes the motor is new.

Thanks, Mark

edit: Sorry, I just put the tape on the rims and they come to 9.5 The front just touch the sway bar on full lock but are OK with a 5 mm spacer and the inner guards need to be removed, the rear just fit but do scrub a bit on big bumps on the rolled and slightly pumped guards. Ride height is 350 front 340 rear. Got the rims from Pete from ADVAN Performance a couple of years ago, they were the rims from his shop car Gracer, old VOLKS. I like them alot, they do need a reco though.

Welcome mate. And S1RWDFTW

AS BIG AS YOU CAN FIT UNDER THE GUARDS WITHOUT RUBBING OR HITTING ANYTHING. Rubber = grip so the more rubber you got the less understeer, more traction you have, My RWD boat runs on 265/40 17 all round on a 10" rim on track days, it has helped dial out some understeer and helps with traction, you can do this by playing with you suspension but for a street car that sees the track now and then you cannot beat size for a quick fix. My street tyres are 245/45 17 on the stock R34 rim (17 x 7.5) Also only use good quality HiPo tyres (Semis Formula R), cheaper tyres will go of really quick and youll just slide around destroying them.

Its got baffles behind the vents. They think its possessed by demons from hell, going to try running slightly less oil, mucking around with the catch can and hoses, maybe redirecting some oil from the pump straight back to the sump, and if none of that works a scavenger pump may be the next option. All this for a daily driver / occasional weekend track day car I do need to win LOTTO right about now. Marks prayer, "Dear JEBUS let me win LOTTO and Ill shout the boys a free track day, AMENS" Stupid oil doing stupid stuff, FFS, how hard is it..............................

The only thing that gets ironed of mine is my stupid work clothes, unless we are going out and the missus makes me take my shirt off to iron it so I dont look like a bum. I do needs some new T shirts, long and short sleeve, with good print jobs, my 2009 superlap T shirts are still good where as my 2010 ones have lost 75% of the print and became oil rags. I vote no to zippers on hoddies, the zipper end bit always scratches stuff.

Thanks mate.

My new engine is the devil, 25/30 with 1 mm restrictors, opened up drains, return lines from the back of the head, catch can with return line, Tomei pump, bigger sump with windage tray. Every track day the catch can fills with oil and sprays everywhere, the pump has been adjusted to lower pressure, extra drains in the top of the covers, its slightly less than it was but still spat 2 ltrs after 3 warm up laps and 1 hot lap. Im going mad with this. Sump holds about 7 ltrs of oil and dip stick reading is at the top of the hatching when I go out and it was half way down it after the 4 laps. Comp is good as is leak down. Limited to 7200, balanced, 18 lb 310kw. Is my only other option a scavenger pump from the head to the sump ???? 1. Have we missed something in the build. 2.To much oil in the sump causing trouble. 3. Needs scavenger Pump. Any ideas are most welcome. Stevo if you see this whats your pump and stuff, Ill be PM you about it anyway if you dont see this thread. Some pics.

Monday Flat Bench 10 x 10 - 5 km walk Tuesday Body Weight Heaves or Pull Downs 10 x 10 Wendsday Squats 10 x 10 - 5 km walk Thursday Shoulder Press 10 x 10 Friday Dead Lift 10 x 10 - 5 km walk Sat 5 km walk with max push ups and max sit ups every 1 km. Sunday Sleep Use enough weight so the last set only gets 6-8 reps, when you can do all 10 x 10 go up 2.5 - 5kg You do not need to do curls or tri ext or any other pretty boy exercises, you need power exersises to make your whole body strong so when someone attacks you you can 1 take the hit, then, 2 pick them up and break them on the ground. This is what I used when I first started training, 1985, I ate alot of heathy foods 6 times a day and the only supps I took was a Multi Vit, Protien drinks consisted of skim milk powder and chocolate syryp, drink lots of water and skim milk, always carry a water bottle with you, tupperware is your friend, pack food. Dont eat sh it, you are what you eat, if you eat fat burgers you will be fat burgers, but dont be so stict that your bored with your food, protien protien protien, any food that has alot of protien is good, as well as food with iron, dont eat to many carbs, after training is OK for some carbs but not always, listen to your body, it will tell you what you need, if you feel tired have some more carbs Sleep a minimum of 8 hrs a night and nap if you can, every hour past midnight your awake add 1 more hour to the 8. I went from 65 kg to about 80 kg in 6 months, and lots of strength. 30 yrs on though, Im 85kg but not so much muscle, more so fat, LOL.

As requested