The Bogan

What you need its different for every club/venue/organizers. As for cheap; Track day x 1 = $200ish entry+ fuel $???+ service $???+the car if you bin it I service my car after every track day, so, it costs me around $350 for a day-(entry/fuel/oils/fluids) + maybe retune, brake pads, new discs or anything else that goes bang. I got some Dunlop semi-slicks which cost around $500 a tyre, they have had 2 track days on them and have maybe another 4 or 5 left (maybe). The minister of war and finance has said I am not allowed to spend more than $5,000 per annum which means I can only really afford to track my car 6 times a year. You can do it cheaper so don't let me put you off, its the most fun you can have with your clothes on, this is just me saying to work out a budget before hand.

Just a safety note guys, if you haven't worked on or fitted brake parts before make sure you get some professional help. Its not a hard job but done wrong you may end up in the sh1t. No point in upgrading your brakes and then not fitting or bleeding them right and doing damage, or worse still, crashing.

http://www.defencejobs.gov.au/

Manual Gearbox: 2L (80w 90) or Castrol Castrol Syntrax 75W/90

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chupacabra This is why I wont move down there, Its not just the goats that have to worry ............

Think it cost around $1000. No pics as I payed for supply and fitting.

UNIGROUP in NSW can get one made up for you, Im very happy with the one the fitted to mine. http://www.unigroup.com.au/Home.html

Sad times people, be careful out there and look after each other. Mark

Go to some race meets and try to buy the old tyres that get changed there, last time I was at Eastern Creek the Bridgestone truck had a pile of tyres some of which had a little life left,BUT, Dont you need drag radials not semis ?

32=Cheap old small (you dont fit in it)= NO 33=Cheap bigger oldish, find one with rebuild or minor mods, look inside guards for rudder, service history, does it look stockish or cop bait= Maybe (this is what I got but using hindsight I should have got a R32 GTR) 34=Not so cheap but good bang for your buck=Personally I don't like the shape of the body as much as 32s or 33s= Sounds like this is what you want. Remember if its just going to be a streeter do you want a 2 door or need a 4 door, My Coupes back seat didn't fit 3 kids, mainly the eldest she is 11 and hits the roof with her head. Buy a R32 GTR, put in some low rails so you fit, treat it nice, service it regularly (this is what I should have done,LOL) Just my 2 cents worth.

http://www.bilstein.com.au/ Been told these are good, Im getting them at the end of the year.

Oranges are my fav, and Pears, when they are in season of course.

Ill come for a look if Im around.

STAGEA POWARRRRRRRRRRRRRR

Don't break any rule, but interpret it "creatively", to a point, but there's a problem straight away, what I think is OK others may not, stupid rules are needed to keep people honest. BUT, if its a safety issue well that's another can of worms, sticking to the letter or interpreting may mean a compromise for the driver, crew and spectators safety, which is not really acceptable.

Cooorrrrrr, love to rub some stuff all over that bit of old fluff.

Get a shroud made up or buy one and cover the inside with that stuff they use for sound deading, Dynamat ??? I painted my shroud and whilst it was off the plumb back BOV noise was louder (BOOOOOSSSSSHHHHH-defect), put it back on and the noise wasn't as bad, I couldn't use the stock air box as its a high mount w/ aftermarket stuff and things.

LOL, right, the intercooler/aftercooler is there to remove the heat from the compression of the intake charge that a turbo/supercharger makes. The N/A motor will draw ambient temperature air if it has a cold air intake or hotter air inside the engine bay if you run a unenclosed filter type set up (pod) as here is no compression of the intake charge. A N/A motor will always have a cooler intake charge than a Forced Induction system, unless its got a ice box or a NOS type cooling spray which is not really what were talking about. The intercooler/aftercooler on the N/A motor must/will restrict flow which will lower response and power. But it wouldn't be the first time physics and common sense has taken a back seat to some fully hectic ideas.

I cannot answer how longer re-shimming would last but the larger axles and shafts means they are not going to break to easy, GTR shafts look much stronger than the GTS-T ones that came out, so the extra supporting mods was why I went the whole diff swap as apposed to just the center. Anyone got some info on this, circuit, drag stuff with grip tyres, see what happens when they are being used in high load applications.

Got a GTR rear put in mine, yes the axles and half shafts need to be replaced, I got the whole rear replaced, was tightened up a bit but as it doubles as a streeter I didn't want it to tight, much better feel on the track with no spinning one wheel coming out of corners and very drivable on the street. Cost around $1500 for the supply and install.

Car sounds horn Stuart

Thought the 911 was the original Widow Maker due to the power and handling characteristics.

Nice write up in the SSCC news letter Hollywood (Chris).

Cold dense air = ALL GOOD

What are you using the car for, I only ask this as Im unhappy with my outcome, I would rather more response than to a turbo that comes on late and hard, my set up is more suited to drag but I wanted track. The spool time is crap, its like waiting-waiting-waiting-wheel spin.