The Bogan

Dont borrow money or sell houses to buy cars, house-property yes, cars no, its not like you could sell it for no loss, every year older means money lost, how much are you going to pay. R35 GTRs are nice but unless I had alot of liquid cash to spare to pay for it outright and for insurance and servicing I wouldnt touch it. Keep buying property, make some good $$$$$$$$$$$, then later on buy one, or something better. If you donot live beyond your means you could have a live a long and happy life and with some good investments buy what you like later in life. If you live beyond your means, well, look at what happens to countrys like America that are full of the "I want it now" type people, broke, familys in trouble, divorce, dont say "it wont happen to me" because thats what everyone says just before bankruptcy. Also the you only live once phylosophy is fine if your going to die soon, but if you plan on living to watch your grandkids grow old, it doesnt hold much weight. Mark

"god your got big boobies" I was drunk, she is now my missus, LOL.

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/search/index.html?keywords=air+box&x=15&y=10 lots of ideas

PICK UP ONLY Will not seperate

PICK UP ONLY

Near Liverpool

Had to replace this with a stocker air bag jobbie when my car was engineered, nice wheel, 350 mm Dia complete with boss kit horn button and a D1 Spec quick release. $150 PM me Sydney pick up only

4 x stock rims 2 x Firestone Wide Ovals 225/50 16 @ 75% and 2 x Kumho Ecsta 215/55 16 @ 100% (new) for the happy skids price of $100 2 x R33 S1 front seats good cond $50 PM please

Pod filter = useless mod, if your stock IC piping will allow the use of the stock air box use it, I do recommend modifying it so it has a cold air intake and a larger route for the in coming air, Google "modify standard air box" and "cold air intake' for some easy DIY projects.

Says nothing about being stock The Tyres must be DOT and ADR approved. All OEM Tyres (This includes the factory RE070 supplied by Subaru for the STI's) The tyre tread wear rating must be 140 or above.CHECK The exhaust must be rear exiting with no screamer pipes.CHECK The car must be road registered.CHECK engineered Must have OEM glass.CHECK Must have OEM doors.CHECK Must have OEM full dash.CHECK Must have all seats in the vehicle. (aftermarket seats allowed) ADR approved front seats (R34GTR) Must have full interior in the car. Not allowed to be stripped out. ??? you need to remove rear seats/belts for engineering compliance Must not have in cabin adjustable brake bias or pedal box.CHECK By this I could have a modified vehicle as long as it fits in the above, my reasoning is that my car is registered and enginneered but does have a roll cage for extra safety, hence removal of the rear seats. Come to Sydney and Ill have a go at it of course but I feel the rules have got some holes that could be looked at, ie harness use without cage? safety?. Wish I could be there for this it sounds awesome. Mark.

For the buyer it is.

Power to weight, the 1500 odd kg of the 33 34 with a power of 120 kw ??? vs a 1200 odd kg S with 100 ??? kw, not sure of correct specs but you get the idea, the lighter car will accelerate faster and stop quicker due to the less weight its carrying as long as the power to weight ratio is higher. Another car to consider is the Mazda MX5, not the most powerfully car but a tight chassis which handles like its on rails, make sure to get a hard lid though.

Be safe with it mate and enjoy. Remember that speed doesn't kill, its the sudden stop that does it.

You have done your best to inform them, if they don't check their emails or check on here its their own fault. I so wish this was on still, my car is needing R & D at prolonged high RPM to sort out some issues, a track or strip is really the only safe place for it to happen.

Wish they were in Sydney, I would snap them up.

Email needs to be sent out I'm guessing.

Power to weight is what you need to look at on your P plates, lots of little 4 CYL cars are going to be quicker than a bigger heavier 6 CYL, just buy a little Honda or similar, no point in getting anything else really if its performance you after, unless you want a car that looks fast but is really really slow. And only spend money on brake, tyres and suspension, power mods on NA cars are no value for money, excluding breathing mods like a good quality filter panel and zorst. Those little Honda go alright, seen a few stockish cars at track days and they punch well above their weight

I'm going to have to see what work is doing.

I cannot see how fluid could get from a lunched turbo through the pipe work, I/C, more pipes then a plenum and up a vac tube to squirt me in the eye, if the hose doesnt come of at 20lb Im sure it wont come of if the turbs has dropped its showbags.

3 tyres were made in 5110 (Dec 2010) and 1 in 0211 (Jan 2011) so as good as if not better than the ones you find here.

$318 for shipping

Tire rack. Why buy in Australia for twice the money, I was quoted $450 per tyres here but got the same tyres for $159, add on $318 for shipping got the final price to $954 USD for 4 tyres shipped to my door. Here would have cost $1800, that a saving of 47%

Need this in Sydney, sounds great. One question though, what happens when a street car with a half cage enters, the rear seats must be removed for engineering it, is it still classed as street if the engineering cert is supplied. Thanks Mark.

I dont think anyone is having a go at the volunteers, its frustrating about the late notice though, this was going to be my first time at a "real" drag strip. Still, you cannot complain about the rain days, I build roads in my job (plant operator) and the Hwys are still being built, these things are factored in when you are in the planning stage of a job, still it will be finished at some stage in the future and I will get my chance to go fast in a straight line. And thankyou to the volunteers for there help, I hope WSID pays them back in kind. Mark

Needs 15 "steel rims widened to 8in with the biggest rubber that can fit under the guards, with some hub caps