The Bogan

I would save the big dollar sump for the 26, just get a fitting or 2 welded to your stock 25 sump at the most, me I never had a problem with my stock 25 sump and stock oil pump on a stock motor, my problems started when I tried to run a Tomie pump with stock restrictors. And you can have some mild cams in there as the VCT is tunable to a point, mine does anyway.

I use 10w 40 whatever semi synth is on special and change it before every track day or 5000k, it never gets to 5000k though, only spend money on things you will be using with your new motor though, a sump vent is good, reason being alot of heavy plant use then to reduce sump pressure which in turns allows the engine to rev easier as its not trying to push against positive pressure. Mine runs return to sump catch can, head drain on the hot side, vent to the cold side and a remote restricter set up which is a story unto itself. As long as you can control the flow to the head you should be fine, me if I was you, with your Tomei pump I would keep VCT?, block the front and use 1 x 1mm restrictor at the rear like in the Sydney kid thread. I would fill it 1 ltr over full, and then check the can regularly for oil. I wouldnt do any other mods as you will not be using any of the parts on a 26 build. Then trash it till our new motor is ready.

2.7.1 Strength and Thickness The thickness, of non-intrusion panels, with gel coat removed, must be at least 3.5mm. Bonnets and guards are examples of non-intrusion panels The strength and thickness of structural components such as floorpans and bodies that incorporate seatbelt anchorages, door hinges and latches etc., must be certified by a signatory. The fixings for replacement fibreglass panels should have the same positions and must have at least the same strength as the fixings used for the original panels. A combination of steel and neoprene washers of a minimum 20mm diameter should be used with all fixings. Seat and seatbelt anchorages, door hinges and latches must only be affixed to fibreglass panels, floorpans or bodies that have been reinforced to take the loads such components are capable of generating both in normal use and in a crash. 4.3.2 Fibreglass and Other Composite Replacement Panels Original bolt-on metal bonnets and mudguards for pre 1971 (ADR 10) vehicles may be replaced with fibreglass or other composite panels that comply with sub-section 2.7, providing the modification does not increase the rigidity of the front structure of the vehicle and the collapsibility of the steering column on ADR 10 vehicle is not compromised. The catches and/or the design of the replacement bonnet must prevent it from being propelled through the windscreen into the cabin area in the event of a frontal collision. http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/pdf/NCOP6_Section_LH_Body_and_Chassis_01Jan2011_v3.pdf http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/vsb_ncop.aspx Links kindly supplied by Zebra

I haven't seen a race car without one, not that I've seen very many, I assume that if wasn't need they wouldn't have one. I liked the bit about bonnet vents, that is the reason I got the style I did.

Restrictors, that is all. edit; and oil cooler as it will be used for new motor, FWIW i never had a problem till I had a new motor put in which had a Tomei pump, even with head drains and a return to sump on the catch can. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_1931/article.html http://www.autospeed.com/A_111696/cms/article.html http://www.autospeed.com/A_107759/cms/article.html http://www.autospeed.com/A_108646/cms/article.html http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_109789/article.html and for flow http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_2160/article.html

Bilsteins are in my boat with King springs, for my streeter/ occasional track day car they are great, I had crappy G4 coil overs and now the new set up is much better on the street and the track, mine have the circlips to adjust the height, not the best way but they are 100 x better now than before. Only down side is my missus boobs dont bounce around as much.

I found him extremely helpfull, he inspected it, told me what was needed to be changed, remove T timer, plumb in BOV, remove rear seats and belts and such, and when I got it complient he signed it off. He even said that if I do any other mods he will inspect and approve if its all compient and It would only be cost plus a small fee, win.

According to this I have a green VW convertible, and I dont need padding on the half cage, I will leave the padding on there because I always bash my head on it when Im trying to drag stuff (fishing gear/tyres) out of there.

WORD

No mate, a guy that UNIGROUP knew. LOL, he had a Tarago 4WD with 600,000k on it.

I payed $980 for a car with about 15 mods on engine, suspension, brakes, seats, roll cage, diff mod, wheels, money well spent. Be aware that it still has to be legal, i.e no Atmo BOV, no turbo timer, needs a air box.

WTF, are you blind, what is the weeds growing in, its called a drain, the road slopes towards it, you just posted a link you may need to use.

LOL, true, but then the kids wouldnt have anything to whinge about, somebody call a WHHHAAAAAMBULANCE. In my opinion it just needs some 20mm spacers. Cops are tops, are you going in to stop the 7 foot hillbilly from smacking his kids, no, then harden the puck up and post something usefull. Haters gotta hate, I love haters, they make me LOL. Book em Danno

Dunlop Dirreza sport Z1 star spec are the best street tyres Ive had.

Double post. So After every power mod you should check to see if your fuel is keeping up with demand, otherwise budget in a new motor. Also fill in some pers info with at least location so we know where your from. Enjoy.

Full service i.e every oil and fluid (brake fluid, engine oil, gearbox oil/fluid, diff oil, radiator fluid, power steering fluid), spark plugs, better brake pads, boost tee to run 11psi, dyno run to see if your fuel is keeping up, and, um, that should be close to your budget. Next thing would become familiar with the search button. Drive safe Shop Smart, Shop S Mart

LOL, and what was the question again ? You just wrote out a shopping list and stated something about some unanswered question which wasn't asked anyway.

I should start a thread about my VCT feed and super dooper remotely adjustable over engineered side feed restricter that takes 15 minutes to change the restrictor size in the RB30 section, oh wait, its all in there all I need to do is SEARCH, I may not find it straight away, but Im sure if I put my time in Ill find it. I wasnt reinventing the wheel you know, its all been done before.. Whats your engineering dilemma, I spent days reading through all that info myself to get ideas when I got my motor built. Sarcasm sits well with me. On topic, go to builder and say I want ???kw or a reliable motor that will survive some abuse at track/drags, then ask another, see what they say, make a informed desicion about what you want, what you have researched and then post up saying, "hey guys, whats this set up look like" From my experience your post sounds like "tell me stuff because ICNBFed searching", It took me a couple of weekends to read the 30 thread, well worth it IMO. On here all you will get is a heap of points of view with about 10% being usefull, sorry but Im one of the 90% of IDIOTS.

Make sure you ask your engineer if he will sign off on those seats, they are a safety item and must meet ADR rules. A engineer might not to risk his licence for a non compliant pair of seats, not trying to rain on your parade but when I had my car engineered the guy was adamant that the seats were ADR compliant. Also if the seats are not ADR and you crash and get hurt your insurance will not pay up if they can prove the seats were in anyway part of the cause, which they will because they will claim your seats were a non compliant modification on a safety item. This is for a road registerer car, if its track only use whatever you want as long as it passes the scrutiny. Look up the modification rules on the RTA web site and speak to your engineer before you spend any of your hard earned cash. This is my advice anyway, in the end do what you want, it won't be me getting defected.

Pics for sure.

I'm at bloody work, Aaaaaarrrrrrrrgggggggg

I stand corrected, I still like more side wall though, 93mm for the 265/35 or 106mm for the 265/40, I would go the 40 as a minimum. As for 235/35 at 82mm or 235/40 at 94 mm, for the street that extra 12mm comes in handy But yes, IM WRONG, sorry for causing any missinformation.

Blits in Brisbane

Put in a couple of extra dollars and get R34 GTR Seats, ADR (legal) and they are a sweet seat, no point in spending $1500 on seats that you have to remove if you get defected for them, for around $2000 you can get genuine Nissan R34 GTR seats that will bolt straight in. Do the $1500 seats have rails included, they will cost at least $500 for a decent set at least. Shop smart, shop S-mart