116.hks

I use a ctek charger as well and we use one at work. they are compact and easy to install. I've mounted mine to the battery box in my boot and when the cars not in use i just plug in 240. I do agree with sinstr, get a decent battery, then buy a charger.

I don't think its blowby as the motor is basically brand new still. I will try a speedy sleeve and see how that goes. Any suggestions on where i could get one?

The engine was fully rebuilt roughly a year ago and has only done 11000 kms in that time. I am having trouble with the rear main leaking. I have know replaced it twice, but keeps on weeping. The mechanic up the road from work said that i'll always have trouble with it sealing, due to the power its putting out and the design of turbo engines. It's nothing special, just the usual mods to produce over 400 at the wheels. Has anyone had problems before with this. Any info would be great as it's driving me crazy.

all vehicles have a current draw of at least .01amps-.05. any larger then this the battery will go flat. you will need to get that fixed first before buying a charger. the only vehicles i've seen with hugh current draws are late model euro cars like bmw and mercs, but they have a battery that can handle that sort of current draw for a period of time only.

it doesn't matter what amp rating it is if it is used as a maintance charger. keep in mind though if the battery is low on charge make sure you allow for ventilation in the boot if you have a non sealed lead acid battery. you'll end up getting an acid smell in the boot and the battery might breath a little to much and weep acid out the caps.

hey mate. if it is on r12, which is the scew type service port fittings then, you need to get it retro fitted to the new gas. the old gas is no longer sold as it not ozone friendly. the reciever drier will need to be replaced as it has been exposed to the atmosphere, and the oil changed to a R134a gas type (like ester oil) it's a massive fine if anyone is caught incorrectly gas vehicles or hasn't got a licience to do so. it costs me $100 a year for my licience so i can regas vehicles. if i was you i'd get it done properly just so the a/c doesn't completely sh*t it's self and cost you a fortune. that's my 2c.

when you mean EXTREMELY CHEAP, how much we talking. might be interested in either a jacket or shirt or both.

just reading your reply again. i've had a couple of lines in lately and found them to have a voltage drop from the ignition switch to the starter. it could be along shot but it is worth checking.

hey mate. a qiuck question. how did they come to the conclusion that the starter motor is faulty? i'm an auto elect on the northside of brissy. if it is the starter, i would like to help a sau member out.

seen this car in person. credit to the owner. it is one beatiful and tough gtr. a little out of my price range, but i would second my morgage for it. ( if the wife would let me.) good luck with the sale bro.

hey a question. got a couple of mates that would like to tag along. the all own skylines that are rb powered. is it cool if they tag along?

yeah mate, the problem is in the speedo. there is a gear that runs of a motor that turns the numbers over. i'm pretty sure it is the same size gear in most other cars. (eg commodores, falcons etc.) do plenty of these at work. its only a plastic gear, so it breaks easy over time. an auto elect should be able to do it for you, just make sure he removes all of the broken teeth. it only takes 1 to stop the ordometer from working. hope this helps.

sounds like a switch problem. if they motor out then the motor is ok.

thought about it. put me down 4sure.

if i took your advise col then i better bring a tow truck then.lol

put me down for a maybe guys.

hey mate. ecu's seem to cause so many issues. everybody out there has there opinions and they are totally different to each other. in my view, i would spend the money on a full wire in type ecu. it comes in handing for future upgrades. pfc's aren't a bad plug and play, i've never used one before but have had mates use them and they are happy with the results. had a haltech in my old set up and hated it. a couple of other people i know had nothing but dramas as well. i changed to a wolf v500 and very happly with the results and my tuner ( peter from rpm morayfield ph 5499 3932). keep in mind though that most tuners around have there preference on what ecu's they perfer to use.

hey mate. don't know how ya situated, but are you considering swaps with the chance of cash my way at all. have an r32 4 door. sh*t loads of work done to it. has 423hp at rears. can view pics in my album. have a vertex body kit sitting here waiting to be fitted as well.

Car: R32 4door, rb25 engine, wolf v500, gt3582r, 3.5'' exhaust, 580cc injectors, greddy plenuim, o44 bosch pump etc. Gas choice: Shell v power $ Per tank: don't let it go below half a tank if i can help it, but usually cost 40 - 60 depending on prie at time. Kms per tank: usually can get just over 200km to half a tank round town. haven't taken it on the highway yet. comments: not to bad for the mods i've done i think. put the foot into it, fuel economy, what fuel economy.lol

man thats one sweet ride. good luck with the sale.

does the vehicle have any mods firstly and does it blow black smoke from exhaust at idle. if so make sure you have not blown an intercooler pipe. also could be a faulty afm. hope this helps

going back to your original problem, with fuel pressure issues in the sense of being to rich and lean, i can't see the big drama with controlling a/f mixtures. you're running close to stock boost with an neo turbo, ( correct me if i'm wrong, i thought there was not much difference between neo and standard 25 turbos except for 1 is ball bearing. could be wrong though) sard frp and pump. fuel pressure is still regulated and the ms on the injectors have not change from the factory tune, so i don't understand why he can't control a/f, cause the vehicle is stock. the injectors will only inject what it needs at that point and time whether it be at idle or full throttle. check to make sure that fuel pressures don't exceed factory specs. (most vehicles are set at 30 psi) i'd be checking that before i worry bout ecu's. you could have incorrect spray patterns from the injectors as well that could be flooding the engine. tell ya tuner to check the basics before it ends up costing you an arm and leg.

it can upset the afms if ya have vaccum leak creating a misfire and idling issues

i know how ya feel mate. had my car egged one chrissy while fishing with me mate. all we heard was a splat. wasn't quick enough to catch the bastards. i'm just lucking they hit the tail light and not the paint. it damaged the light a little but nothing to big.

just check to make sure you have no vacum leaks. its along shot but start from there. correct me if i'm wrong but didn't you have a problem a couple of weeks ago with it not starting?