GIGOLO

Hi Everyone, I recently Installed an oil catch can on my R33 GTS-t and have noticed that when it is not plumbed back to the intake, the car will idle rough and smell like it is runing rich. However, when it is plumbed back into the intake the car will idle smooth. I am guessing that it is running a rich idle tune causing the car to have an almost lumpy idle. I have tried adjusting the idle scew at the rear of the intake plenum but the problem is still there regardless of the idle RPM. The car has a CRD tuned PFC. Besides getting the PFC retuned (I don't have a hand controller) for the catch can does anyone have any other suggestions that may help?

Could be a bad batch of fuel, I have had "suspect" fuel require the ign timing to be reduced up to 3 deg. Could also be your Crank Angle sensor, although if it doesn't knock with the Vortex gold I would suspect the Ultimate as being "suspect".

I saw that ad too, it says how long it lasts but does not say how well it filters the air!

Who are you insured with?

Check for air leaks in the pipes from the AFM to the engine

Where are the tyres located?

Not sure about an RB20, but in my RB25 I had a similar problem and after cleaning the AAC velve behind the intake plenum the problem went away.

How did you tighten the wastegate flap? i didn't think they could be tightened???

what car is the steerinig wheel from?

Very nice conversion, although I am puzzled by the layout as the engine looks mounted East West. Is it still RWD?

What bodykits can you get and how much?

Get a steel plate cut it to the the size of your flage plate and drill one 10mm hole in the middle. Insert the "silencer plate" at any flange location and you should pass a noise test no probs. Any more than one hole and the noise levels will increase at idle and when backing off the throttle.

subtract ~60kw for drive train losses

Just on the fitment, My 265x35R18's were scrubbing on the guards of my R33 after a rear camber kit was fitted and adjusted to -1.2deg. So if you want even wear from these tyres, consider getting the guards rolled.

I'm not sure what exactly is meant by the "long" and "short" types but I assume that it may relate to the fact that some injectors like SARD need collars to fit (possibly short) and nismo, HKS etc... are direct fit (possibly long) Just a guess though , good luck with it.

Any one know where to get an "off the shelf item" in SYD? I was quoted $150 from Australias best undercar and $200 from Hi tech in mild steel, so it should be cheaper to get a bold up pipe and have the rest made.

Hi everyone, I'm looking at getting a cat relacement pipe made up for my R33, but since my current cat is welded on, I need some flanges installed. I would like to get the flanges to be installed to be in the same location as standard, but the exhaust shop needs a template to go off. So if anyone can lend me their spare cat with an R33 gts-t bolt up pattern for a day or so it would be greatly appreciated. Alternatively, if anyone knows where I can buy an "off the shelf" replacement pipe please let me know. cheers, Chris

Whats the condition and History of the RB26 rods?

Try increasing the "Boost" and Set gain. The "boost" will increase the boost pressure and set gain effects the smoothness, the closer to the boost level, the faster it spools and more chance of a spike, especially if setting over 50%

Thats right. If you want to bolt it on and off easily get the steel gaskets and not the graphite gakets as they arn't so sticky after they have been used.

Anyone compared the Magic cat to the Catco 5" the BATMBL sells?

Thanks for your help guys, I need to get a custom one because the car has the cat welded to the exhaust system, and I will need to get flange plates installed to bolt it on and off. Any idea on the performance gains of doing this? I know it depends on how effiecient your current cat is, but what has been your experiences?

Has enyone used a straight through replacement pipe for their cat converter? I am looking at getting one made up for track days and drags, but not sure whether to keep the Lambda sensor just behind the cat. My thoughts are that, removing it will cause the car to run rich as it is missing a sensor and may try to run in a " safe " mode. Or if I leave it, it will cause the sensor to read worse pollution levels than if the cat was present and it may run lean. I am currently runing a full 3" systems, PFC, FMIC, 550cc injectorsand T3/T4 turbo. If anyone has used one let me know if you have had any ill effects, and any noticable performance gains/losses.

Is the gear knob the screw on type? pics pls [email protected]

Doesn't Cryogenic treatment make them more slippery? I have seen Cryo treatment used on pistons and cranks, but never Bake rotors.