Nur33

I would do work on other people's cars but have been f**ked over in the past and most people piss me off because they see my other projects i've done in the past then they go aahhh that's nice!!!! and want the same thing done to there ride then expect you to it on a shoe string budget and want it done yesterday. I'm sorry but they just ain't gonna fly with me my builds take months sometime years, if you want me to build a car your gonna have to have deep pockets and be committed. Plus it takes time away from my project cars so yeah couldn't be f**ked really doesn't pay well enough for me, rather do and overtime at work. But hey happy enough to help with advice and tooling and shit like that.

Na mate, We used it on our dry sump tank. Run a breather line from the front into the boot.

Here are the runs from townsville, some people can watch them and others cant. ill be home from work tomorrow and will upload to youtube.

Na mate just a standard N1 Block, didnt get it bored for the JUN 2.7 Stroker, Got some custom CP pistons made up in exchange. I would only grout fill the block if your gona run methanol..

did those links work? I might have to upload to Youtube.

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=4553107952865 http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=4554199740159 http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=4555390089917

Nah that's what makes the car go straight

Done some painting today

Dummy Fitted the arse end of the drifter today for shits and gig's here's some pics can't wait to my wheels turn up

8.7 - 8.8 sec is the goal which is what we are aiming for a Jambo this year. A retune to 36psi + maybe a bit more (currently running 27psi), put rev limiter to 10500rpm (currently 9000-9500rpm) combined on Willowbanks Super Sticky Surface it will be very possible. Just from changing from Palmyra to Willowbank should give us 0.5sec gain straight up.

Haha nah we are running 17's now with the Mickey Thompson ET Streets, hoping to drop down to 1.3sec 60ft's when we hit Willowbank.

Yeah sorry about taking your record Coop my bad lol, there was suppose to be a meet on at Palmyra that weekend but it was cancelled, and we wanted to more testing before Jambo so we decided to come up to Townsville for a run. We ended up getting a 9.5sec pass @ 144mph with a 1.4sec 60ft. The track conditions were not the best put we were still impressed with the times considering we changed nothing to the car besides the rev limiter which was but out further and changed driving style. Looking forward to Willowbank to see what times we do on a really sticky track. We did also have our first mechanical failure, but was to be expected poor old clutches don't last forever, so it has been pulled out and sent to Doug at NPC to do his magic. Which will be great to have a fresh clutch before Jambo. I will post up some vids from townsville when i get a chance. Yeah would be great to catch up with you Coop may see you out drifting my 180sx is still gonna be awhile yet but when it is, gonna be freaking awesome fun. Here's some pics of clutch that's had a hard life:

I do all my own gearbox work man so i cant really recommend anyone.

The car ran a PB on 9.58 @ 144mph with a 60ft of 1.4sec which i am pretty happy with. Willowbank will be the proving ground of its true potential. 0.5sec is what i am guess-ta-mating we will gain on track condition with the same 800hp tune at the moment which gives us a 9.0sec and Mark thinks that with a healthy tune on 36psi should get us the 8.7 - 8.8sec which will give us the record we have set out to achieve. Fastest Street Tyre H-Pattern GTR, but baby steps first as long as the car goes faster every time we drive it is always an achievement which is what it has been doing which at the end of the day is all we want. The car is impressing us every time we run, we do very minimal changes and gain huge results which gives us massive satisfaction. The car is still full bodied all steel panels still only carbon bonnet at the moment and we have heaps of things to lighten the car up but at this point in time are just not needed, like carbon doors, carbon boot, remove intercooler, carbon brake rotors, Weld drag rims, Lexan windows, exhaust removal, interior strip etc. Which would gives us an easy 100KG + lighter. The car also had its first major component failure, but was to be expected as it cops the brute force and shock load and has done over 40 odd drag launches and numerous dyno runs, and if you have ever owned a GTR the clutch does not last very long if you keep doing hard 4wd Launches. The engine and gearbox was removed yesterday and the clutch was sent straight to Doug at NPC to get overhauled and modified even stronger to full drag specification. While the engine is out we will check everything to make sure it is 110% before it heads of to Jambo. Bring it on I say .

Lil Bro just ran a 9.6sec up in Townsville this arvo, pretty good considering the track is as smooth as conner's road in paget lol. The car is running really well getting consistent 9.6 - 9.7 sec pass even on the low power tune. Looking forward to seeing what it does at willowbank should get a low 9 for sure and its very possible to get the 8sec pass on more HP. Wish i was up there (f**k you work at least the money is good).

Yeah looks in pretty good condition, GTR's are no good as track cars any more the Evo's are taking over. Most people that i've seen build big track GTR's have sold them after a few track days and bought an Evo

Also if anyone is chasing RB30 blocks I have 2 of them a Turbo block and a N/A block both come with Crankshafts (No Pistons or Rods)

Not Kingy's R34 GTR it's the cleanest R34 I've ever seen.

Crank Trigger is not worth you spending that much money Cal, honestly if your car was a full blown race car where engine reliability is a must and engine is worth over $50K then yes. But street cars making 300-400rwkw then no. Our crank trigger setup on our R32 cost lots of dollars and it still has the standard CAS but has been modified by Mark to read in with the Vipec Crank angle sensor (don't ask me how it works its all classified info shit). It took a lot of setting up and went through 3 crank trigger sensors before we got it perfect because the have to be so close to the chopper wheel and if you have any flex in the sensor bracket then kiss that sensor goodbye. If your CAS is playing up 1. Buy a new one, 2.Swap exhaust cam to R34 type and Run R34 CAS then are newer. 3. f**k the Power FC off get a new ecu and rewire the engine and throw all the standard loom away chances are if half rooted anyway's. These cars are over 15yrs old now and shit don't last forever, especially electrical sensors. P.S buy a Ross Balancer if ATI f**k you around there are nothing wrong with them. My Ross Vs ATI Pics

Bit more shit done today, next days off will be painting the engine all black and Rocker Cover will be getting the crackle black treatment, colour theme is Black, silver and white... f**k the bright colours. Spent the day degreasing shit how fun.

Nice i want an old school muscle car next.

Evo IX for practicality and performance easy to tune/upgrade.... Evo X are good but are expensive when go wrong and no where near as good as the IX.

Why would the water pump be different all RB's have same water pump set-up the only thing that could be different maybe be power steering pump.

As far as i'm aware they should be the same.

Got a Little Bit done today not a great deal but, picked up some more bits today like a Full Z32 Gearbox Conversion Kit all Machined up ready to bolt up and also got a ATS Triple Plate Clutch for good measure to handle plenty of abuse .