Nur33

Is that your engine Cal, what are you doing to it forgies and studs?

Nah probably not.

The way the car was launching it felt like the wheels where coming off the ground the suspension is working exceptionally well and cannot complain with 1.35 and 1.36 60foot times, I think with a little bit more launch HP I could get it down to a 1.25-1.30 maybe.

Here's a couple of pics from Jamboree you guys might enjoy from the Fullboost.com.au website :

Cheers man, i did love this engine bay also... pure JDM The strut brace was a Fujimura Auto Titanium they retail for a bit over $1K.

Here are my only 2 RB26 engine i've ever built, The gold RB26 was a N1 NUR Spec engine produced approx 550-600HP out of my R33 GTR (now sold) and the other is out of my R32 GTR N1 8sec Drag car Jun/Tomei RB26.5 produces 1000HP +. Here are the Before and After Pics: R33 GTR Before: R33 GTR After: R32 GTR Before: R32 GTR After $$$$$:

definately not a holinger, or a sequential, cost way to much money. They are weaker than Straight cut dog box, because they are helical cut dog engagment, but yes the next option would be a liberty, but at the moment I want to keep it like a streeter for a bit longer haha

To me it will be a drift pig thrasher, to others maybe not so, will be quite presentable i hope.

Cheers guys can't wait to see what the future brings with the R32. Well I'm finally back in Australia now after being in the US of A for 3 weeks, had my wedding, got myself a wife all is well. Now it's time to hook in a get this 180sx Drifter done. My new custom Work S1R's arrive in Australia this week, so will have them soon can't wait they are gonna look Phat over 6 inches of Dish f**k yeah!!! This car gonna be slamming sitting low and phat and be loud as f**k, I have shed full of cool shit for this car it's gonna be epic better than the R32 thats my goal

Could have definately well been that reason too, flat shifting at 1000HP doesnt really do any gearbox justice, but thats why I got ignition cut and certain parameters that reduce the amount of shock loading on the teeth.

Third is completely destroyed, im up for 2 new gears there, The funny thing is when the box broke I was 100% into the gear and it was just Horse power that sheared those teeth off the gears.

Looks like PPG are going to sponsor me and give me parts at a discounted price, which is better than paying full price, got the results from the crack testing and all the other gears and dog rings are fine.. just waiting to hear back from the engineering shop that are trying to straighten my lower lay shaft. fingers crossed haha

How much u want for 1?

How much u want for 1?

Hi guys, Im looking for a 2nd hand Samwage plate out of a r32 or r33 GTR gearbox as mine has a hairline crack where the lower shaft bearing sits, probally due to the 900+AWHP and smashing 3rd gear cheers Matt

Anyone got an old 2nd hand Samwage plate out of a GTR gearbox for sale????

Well not good news today, got the Billet lower shaft spun up on a lathe and checked with dial indicator, it is bent 15thou/ 0.4mm, and PPG said the maximum alowable is .02mm or roughly 1 thou, so hoping the local machine shop can straighten it otherwise im up for a new lower lay shaft. Also going to get the Top billet shaft checked aswell may aswell buy a whole new gearbox!!!!! Samwage plate is f**ked so gota try and find a 2nd hand one cause a new OS giken billlet is $1400 they can belt that!!! not a good day at all, turning out to be very expensive exercise.

yes that was the first thing my dad noticed, it looks like a very weak design, but alot of the gears are the same how they step in behind the teeth.. I can only think of a weight or balance issue???? I will be discussing this with PPG, maybe they might be able to make a 1 off gear for me so it doesnt happen again.

We did talk about it, but this crack may have been there from the begining, is very hard to pick up and the extra cost of the billet samway plate just made this gearbox to expensive as it was already around the 12k mark.

Hi guys here is my time slip,

Yup going to get some new gears sent up from PPG, I have been told today that I need to check my lower billet shaft aswell to make sure its not bent from the teeth obviously getting jambed up between the two gears, this would make it a very expensive exercise if I have to replace that Lower shaft. There are stronger options like Liberty or Lenco gearboxes designed specifically for drag racing. But I prefer to do it old school with the H pattern.

Mark from Godzilla Motorsports tunes our car, we broke that gear with only 900-1000HP approximately and also using a 0.2sec ignition cut, so the gear has just failed.. we also just found a small hairline crack in the samwage plate.. maybe time to get a billet one. scott is very switch on, he told me what parameters I should start of with, with the strain gauge.. and we have ajdusted accordingly.

Yes we are clutchless shifting every gear, If you have a straight cut PPG dog box I would definately recommend the Insight Motorsports Strain guage ignition cut, that is the same as what the V8 supercars are currently running with there Holinger sequentials. here is a picture of the broken gears, just tore the teeth completely off the smaller 3rd gear sproket and bluntened all the other teeth on the top 3rd gear sproket.

Red light does not effect the time, only effects the outcome of the race.

Hi mate, we have a JUN 2.7L stroker but swapped the oversized pistons for a brand new set of standard bore size CP pistons, its still retains 2.6L, and why 2.6???? because they rev hard and for some reason everyone thinks more Capasity is better. But not for what we want to do. 3+Litres are just slow reving and sound like shit.