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thank you for the reply, this is what I needed

I want to install my fuel pressure sender (electronic in-cabin fuel pressure gauge) on a stock fuel rail for RB26. which kind of adapter do I need for this job ? thanks. I guess I need something like that ? http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-16-Fuel-Pressure-Gauge-Port-Nitrous-Adapter-Fitting-/111171980002?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19e25dcae2&vxp=mtr but which size should I pick ? what size are the lines ?

I have the standard R32 one which is BM-50 and I have the feeling I could appreciate a little ''harder'' feel on the pedal.

Considering the product is made in AUS. I thought some of you would've of tried it by now.. no ? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-BM57-HFM-Brake-Master-Cylinder-Upgrade-3-port-S13-14-15-R32-33gtst-Z32-/150969419276 I upgraded my brake to brembo with DBA 4000 T3 rotor and hawks HP+ pad, got the SS hose + brake fuil dot4. All I need I believe is the brake master.

From my calculation, the right size should be 2x70mm (most sized jdm downpipe) intro 1x 100mm ( 4 inch) for ZERO RESTRICTION. However, most of them are 2x70mm into 1x80mm and some are 90mm.. which cause a restriction. Then you could have a 90mm exit but if your exhaust or cat or resonator is only 3inch ( 76 to 80mm) it doesnt matter if its a 90mm (3.5 inch) because you still have a bottleneck at 80mm. Once you have sorted this out... you should know that almost ALL dump pipe are 70mm or less ( hks are 60mm and R34 are about 56-58 i believe and then the r32s are about 50mm)... As much as I would like to upgrade my exhaust, I havent found any informations on the internet about this problematic and don't want to be a '' piggy tester'' as I don't have any friend who work at exhaust shop who can fab me a 3.5 or 4inch exhaust for dirt cheap and I dont think my tuner will allow me to test-run his dyno for free for the sake of argument. So I dont think your question is dump at all.

Would you guys keep using my profecb or use haltech own boost controller option ? Since I already have the greddy hooked and work great i wanted to keep it but just curious if maybe I'm missing an advantage of letting haltech control my Boost too.

^^ good to know!

Great so they will be welded on to my downpipe. one thing scratched off my list

I could be wrong, i thought the oem bung was on the dump pipe where acces is not possible under the car so the needs to undo a couple parts on top is necessary.

I need your input again skylines expert!! I need to delete the oem narrowband and fit the haltech wideband system. Option 1: remove manifold and everything else to swap the narrowband to wideband ( labour approx. 300$) If I need to swap them over later on.. I still have to deal with the removal of everything again. Do you think I could simply weld 2 bung to my front pipe so it would be easier to swap if needs to be ? Actually it have to be removed because it have to be calibrated air free. Thanks !!

Please educate me.. tell me more ? From haltech post, any cdi or even the boost-a-spark ( which is not a cdi) was not needed either and going LS2 is more complicated tha some people tend to say it. ( need to fab bracket, make sur it clear strut bar, etc. I have new igniter harness, new oem coilpack and HPI6, I think this will be enought for my -5s setup but for a long time I was interesting in adding the BAS to my system ( before I bought the hpi6/haltech ecu)

I stand corrected. I think I only see one of these actually fitted on a r32 and the car was yellow but cant be sure.

Anyone tried fitting this hood !?? Wondering if it fit good or they are shit fitting..

Here's a copy/paste from haltech tech support regarding the use of HPI6 in conjoncture with CDI or kenne bell boost-a-spark: The boost a spark or HKS twin power would be unnecessary with a unit like the Haltech HPI6. The Haltech HPI 6 is able to supply up to 15 amps of current through a standard inductive coil as long as the coil has the capacity for 15 amps of current. Most coils do not have this much potential, so the Haltech HPI is already providing the maximum spark energy that the coil will allow. Once you have reached the limit of the HPI6 unit, we usually suggest moving up to a CDI unit such as the M&W Ignition systems units that we stock. So maybe the HPI6 is already overkill for a standard bnr32 ignition system, hence why the tech told me it wasnt necessary to use the HPI6 ?

thank you for your answer. this confirm what haltech told me.. I need to buy the wideband kit now! it appears its much easier to tuen wideband than narrowband.

send me a pm so i dont forgot but will ask my tuner if he feel like I should use it or not! At the end, he's the boss, he's the one whos tuning it.

sorry. i should've introduced my post but this answer was from hatlech tech just in case someone in the futur search for information.. it will be there

Did you read the article I linked? The Platinum Pro ECU allows you to turn the factory sensors off so that you do not have any sensor codes. Narrowband sensors cannot read like a wideband sensor, they only show rich or lean in relationship to stoich for gasoline. You need a wideband sensor before the catalytic converter to be able to properly tune your vehicle. Kind Regards, Adam Peeling Sales & Technical Support - Haltech USA

i contacted haltech and their answer was that it would be better to swap the narrowband to wideband. How about knock, is there a better replacement than oem ?

I had tuning issue last year.. so many that I was frustrating when driving my GTR... so we finally discovered my TPS was faulty. -bought a new one. - My tuner, mechanic and friends told me that a new ECU would probably make the car run smoother overall. so I bought a Haltech plug-in - I then decided to buy a Raw brokeage CAS just in case mine was having some fluctuation etc. - Swapping the MAF to MAP so I bought the IAT and MAP 3bar sensor from Haltech - I have a grounding kit - Got myself a HPI6 unsure if it's worth installing it.. but got myself new OEM coilpack and harness So I'm wondering, is it worth swapping the 2 knock sensor to replace the 24yr old one !? Same goes for 02, are they worth it ? is there other sensors that could be wise to swap since they are all 24yr old.. I just wish my car will run smoother in 2014!! arrgghh

when I bought my haltech, I got a free HPI6 in the deal.. I was interesting in using it but read on some supra forums having quite a few problems with them... So I'm unsure at this point if its worth it. I also asked haltech about it and they were answer were that the std unit should be similar to the HPI6.. Anyone heard /used the kenne bell boost-a-spark ? It appears to be a better optien than the hks box.

Comparing to a set of 2530.. is the 6262 BB laggier !? BTW. please educate me.. whats the difference between 6262 and 6266 ?

My tuner told me it needed a box to convert the mechanical input from the r32 to an electronic input. Sub-boy32, is it how you done it ? but the more I think about it and I just think I will go with a ultraportable laptop 10 inch at 300$ and use that if I ever need to check specific parameters. Don't think I'm enough of a driver to make good use of these reading ( mind you I already have oi/water temp and fuel/oil pressure + A/F)

thank you. will look into it. i was told by a instructor here that i couldnt fit a harness without cage.

thankk you chief. Just looking to improve my braking feel here