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I know that. I only found these 2 mufflers. thats why I'm asking if anyone know anything else or maybe custom ingenious DIY. I like varex because it offer a by-pass valve but its like 600 and 3.5inch. Finding a e-cutout is very easy and super cheap, the problem is to found an ''oem'' muffler with an integrated by-pass, so you can actually run with the valve closed.

I'm looking for an exhaust with BUILT-IN ( not cut-off) valve, either electronic or mechanic, Idially, I would go for 4 inch or minimum 3.5 inch. I run a 3 inch varex, I like it but I'm wondering if theres not any other option beside the 3.5 inch oval varex exhaust.

yeah whats the point of having a 94mm exhaust if your front pipe is 60mm?

Anyone know a fins for the top secret diffuser?

this is quite ugly if you ask me lol

Price is in Canadian dollars and item will be shipped from Canada. 1) OEM Transmission for BNR32 with transfer case, no shifter and fork, just the tranny and t-case*. It was said that the transmission was working but had a grind on the 4th when used on the drag. I didn't test it so I can't tell you. 150$ 7) Many car care products as you can see below: http://forums.gtrcanada.com/off-topic-marketplace/54686-fs-quality-detailing-supply-wax-sample.html 8) Front GTR Sway bar ; 40$ 9) CDT subwoofer 12 inch, take 600wrms. these thing are real SQ sub, very high-end stuff, I used to do sound competition. do not get some junk infinity sub for 100$ get the real thing! 150$ each, I have 3 of these ( retail is about 400$ each!) 10) Mocal oil cooler 19 fin, brand new but one thread is screwed, so you need a machine shop to replace the an-10 thread. Asking 40$ retail for 180$ 15) Not working Blitz DD bov .. 20$ Tein tension rods 100$ 18) gtr oem bov 20$ 19) top rad hose 20$ 21) mishimoto rad cap 19lbs. 20$ 29) Denso Supra 280 lph fuel pump. Used for 3000ish km. retail : 280$ Asking 100$ 30) Apexi RSM: as you can see its in very good shape! barely any scratchs on the screen: Asking 150$ for both the g-sensor and RSM ( just the rsm retail easily for 250$) 31) hks gt-ss twin setup These turbos have about 10 000 km. Was using them at 17psi and 21 psi for the last month. Made 520whp at 21psi. Very responsive, I keep getting comment on this. This set comes with HKS uprated actuator . they are also ajustable. Retail price on these are 3300$ + shipping /duties. I end up paying very close to 4000$. Asking 1600$ for the pair. 32) 3 inch Exhaust system: 3inch exhaust system: RS*R downpipe : 300$ Vibrant Ultra-quiet resonator cat-delete: 175$ ( really stop raspy sound coming off the exhaust! I love this piece) Catback include a welded magnaflow straight-flow muffler ( doesn't do much but I wanted to have 2 muffler) with RS*R SS line : 200$ Varex electric valve control wireless controller ( let you decide the sound of your exhaust) cannon-type ( this exhaust has a flange, its not welded: 500$ Or would do the whole line for 1000$. 33) OS GIKEN TS2BD come with Bearing and sleeve Been used for about 10 000 kms but it has seen maybe 20 launch-ish. Plate are still in good shape with a thickness of about 3.65-70. Asking 850$ 35) G-sensor OEM. No red tube, this is 100% fonctionnal. I seen these going for over 500$ on ebay and brand new I heard is like +1500 lol! Mine is 100% working. Asking 200$ 36) AEM wideband sensor: used for 1 weeks literally! 50$ 37) Rad cooling panel : 120$

I have the same problem ( well I think). It usually happens between 2.8 k to 3.2k then booom turbos kick-in 10psi and you don,t notice it anymore. You barely notice it in 1-3 because of how quick the GTR goes from 2.8 to 3.2. so its really more a thing of cruising on the highway in 5th gear. I thought it was my 20yr old diff. or could this be du to an aftermarket diff making this weird sound?

Hello guys, I run a set of 17x9.5 rims. I'm using 245/40 at the moment, I dont like the grip of these. My only track experience is drag but I might be tempted to try time attack/lapping next summer. I'm looking at Star spec, RT615k, Ecsta XS or the RS-3 ( good tires but still good treadwear for street driving). The problem is that nobody make 265/40. It's either 255/40 or 275/40. I can imagine that the 275 might create a bit of sidewall flex when lapping ? Does the flex also apply for straight line acceleration? I already rolled my fender for 245 but I'm not sure if 275 would fit in front ( I'm not slammed but like any cars with coilover, I'm lowered). Obviously, I would like to run the largest possible without creating new problems ( sidewall flex or rubbing issues), would that be 255 or 275 ? thanks a lot.

Have you posted your last final-tune sheet? I thought I only saw the first one which was dissapointed. I'm still wondering myself if I keep the -5 or try to get a little extra from my rb26. P.S: 20 timing seems a lot!!

How was the hel kit? I do not have the stock oil cooler anymore on my rb26 so I'm wondering, should I simply fit an oil cooler or refit the oem stock oil cooler?

I havent took the time to measure mine when it was out but I remember I had it ported to match the r34 dump pipe. Now I'm thinking, if I get 76mm dump pipe, can I port the oem to 76mm ? can you buy aftermarket manifold made to 76mm ? Alex

what timing have you been able to advance/retard because of Water meth?

Damn! So its possible to fit the turbo oem piping with these turbos? are you modified the piping or its the housing?

Funny you say that , because you are the one saing you were dissapointed with your result..

pic of canard? please pm

is it one dump or 2 ? please pm if two.

Have anyone been able to fit r34 canard on r32 ? they look so much better than the r32 one and they are also cheaper!

so if it doesnt disengage, the rod on the slave have to be shorter? I thought it was the opposite

I realised in os giken manual they ask to cut the shaft of the center plate by 4mm. the mechanic didnt do it. You think this could be the cause of everything? Or else, I can only think of the slave.

box and synchro have been rebuilt in a shop 2 years ago. never rev-matched my car. Osgiken recommend to cut 4 mm off the center plate or the shaft .. my mechanic didn't do it. This might be the cause. However he can't see how this could change anything so before that I'm thinking about having him installed my old oem slave . if this ever resolve the problem, I'm worried about how the pedal will feel.

I asked Osgiken tech support about the nismo slave and they said it was perfectly fine. I can also admit it really make the pedal a lot softer which I appreciate. (or maybe my oem was giving up). But I know my mecanic told me he had a problem with the slave, the rod was too short I think, so he had to take the rod on my OEM and swap it with the one on the nismo slave. maybe the problem is here ? I guess I will start by putting only MT90. ( this is what tech support at redline told me to do). BTW, when I took the car to the gym I tried to play with the clutch and noticed that I could make the gears grind in second while downshifting from 3 to 2. It felt like when you accelerate too quickly and you didn't release completely the clutch pedal but I'm sure my clutch pedal was fully on the floor meaning I clearly have a disengaging issues.

I have nismo slave and oem nissan master. dont think nismo make a nismo master anyways? This stand correct for the COPPERMIX and nismo twins. but it doesnt stand for any other twin and or triple plate clutch on the market. Nismo use a different types of material for their clutch.

Heres my thinking; shockproof protect synchro, so I will add some LIGHT shockproof to the mix in order to protect our fragile synchro. I heard other people doing it. Maybe I was wrong. Suck to waste 50$ of fluid but i've made bigger mistake in the past so I wont be mad about it. Redline told me to try the car in reverse, if it feel correct, it means the clutch is disengaging correctly. does that make sens?

Curious to heard the result! BTW: I never knew you guys used the word cul-de-sac lol its a french word.

Hello! I went from a OS Giken TS2B to a TS3B. I also installed the Nismo slave cylinder with SS clutch lines so it got new fluid too. I also changed the fluid of the transmission ( I don't know what is was before) to 2 liters of MT90 and 2 liter of Lightweight shockproof. The clutch engagement ( clutch pedal) feel, IMO, smoother than it was before with the oem slave ( some says it doesnt do anything but I really feel it). However, my major problem is the shifter! I have the impression I'm breaking the gears/shifter every time I try to go in 1st. IT'S REALLY HARD! getting in 2nd is a little easier and 3-4-5 is slightly ''stiffer'' but I don't mind it. Dowshifting is not really a problem ( i.e: 5 to 3) It's really my 1st and 2nd that make the car less fun to drive than before. What could it be? not enought fluid? time for a nismo solid shifter? thanks for the input!