tridentt150v

Go to places like importbitz, they may have s/h ones. Any good brand name will do the job, blitz, hks, apexi etc etc. www.importbitz.com.au I think.

Your all blaming the wrong guy............ you should be sueing durex or scotch for the sticky tape that failed to work...lol. For $55 you can get a few good spanners and screwdriver or two and do the work yourself!! Plus the bonus is you get to keep the tools.

I didn't say to do this set up in my PM, I was just saying what I have done. You will have to work out what you want to do and how to achieve it for yourself. My idea's on how to set up a motor may well be radically different to other peoples thoughts.

I'd be surprised if you had a 4.5" exhaust [as per prophetR33's comment, he was hinting that as well]. I would believe it if you had a 4.5" exhaust tip, but your exhaust piping would be more like 3". And yes 3"is heaps unless your pumping out huge rwkw's with massive high end power aka drag racing.

Look at their trader rating and comments. Check if they are actually SAU members or long time forum members [not that others are bad, just unknown]. I've had no problems and hopefully haven't given any. If I ever did I'd give back the money for the goods straight away. PS Don't trust them Mods though, they are all very suss???? No just kidding, Moderators are an excellent example of who you could trust [this was a paid comment]..........lol

Ummm a pre 1998 car vs a 2003+ model. The gap is likely much wider than that, I cbf reading all the pole pissing and chest beating.........

Yeah, its normal, trust us!!!!!!!!!!! Set the fmic up and trace around it to get the cut you will have to do. You sometimes only need to cut the bottom part of the bar, the top part isn't touched. but check it out first. Tip, use kitchen alfoil to mask the rest of the car off when your using the angle grinder, it doesn't catch fire like paper etc.

Any fmic [over say 30mm thick] requires you to cut into the front intrusion bar. Do it neat and paint the cut and you'll never know. I also had to modify my front bar.

You know, I asked for a hand brake and gearstick boot about five lifetimes ago..................then it all went quite. I took it that the war was over!!! Jay if your still making them, OR if you made mine then wondered wtf, then I'm ready......lol

Full SAU membership, then you can get a discount on all your purchases!!

The price of Splitfires shocks me!!

How wide is it? What length is on the roll?

But its supposed to be in the turbo? Not the block? Does this mean you can't see it? I've got my GT3076 in my hand and the only restriction I see is the 3mm hole/seat that the banjo bolt tightens into/onto. I don't see any other smaller hole. The bolt shown above would not work, the brass insert would be sitting on the seat, not ver it.

3mm ID If its a late model [modern] unit ball bearing then yes it should

The oil is under pressure, you can't restrict the flow pigtailing it. You can only stop/restrict the flow if you kink it. If you use braided line there is no need to pigtail it, the pigtail is only there to allow some flexibility [given that it is a hard pipe ie steel and inflexible] for vibration between the block and the turbo. A braided line is already flexible so caters for this. I would avoid having the hose to short - a tight fit, but I would also avoid having the hose too long, allowing it to flop around and wear on other parts. I would think that if it was around 50mm longer than a straight line fit it would be ideal.

Performance is stale without a snail!

Depending on your boost, 240 to 245. I made 245 at 18psi with pretty much the same set up as you. Even with a Z32 I don't think you will crack 250...........but hey I can be wrong.

More of the picture------its going to be filter OR alarm related. Filter is easier to check for now.

25-30 will get you a lot of skyline, check out the FS section on this site, it is really up to you...........you can get R32 GTR's, R33 Gtsts with mods, and maybe the odd desperate to sell R34GTT. I'd think in another way, 25-30 will get you 250-300kw at the wheels = $100/kw. Lot of power for a guy coming off P's, i'd probably look for a 240kw unit and save some $$$ for head units, gauges, zorsts, tyres, bling and insurance etc.

I wouldn't think so, I'd try just Jap or SSS automotive sydney, they deal in s/h bits. I'd buy valves and guides new, springs and retainers can be s/h.

fuel filter? Its starving for fuel till it gets going, I'd say water in the filter.

Should have a petrol resistant foam rubber sleeve and hose clamp/s to mount it. I've not seen ANY shop including autosparkies that wire things up neat. Kindergarten kids could usually do better!! They usually use the biggest soldering iron they can find, two rolls of dodgey insulation tape per job, have five twist joins in a 500mm length of wire, and crimp all connectors with a hammer or sidecutters.

Talk to JJ, they sold it to you!

Big let go!! All I have is std cams $150/pr, if your cams are bent or worn, PM me.

If you mean me, I don't have a rebuilt motor.......................never ever said I did. Its bog stock. One day I might, but maybe I won't - who knows. All i want to do atm is get the motor happening as best I can and then get it dynoed as best as possible. If I do, I'll take your advise on board, I've dialed in cams before, on a motorbike admittedly. Degree wheel, dial gauge etc it was no big deal then, so I reckon I could do it on a car OK, tools are likely different, variations upon a theme. But I'm not at that point in my cars evolution yet, and may never reach it.