lwells

"May need engine rebuild, possibly the bearings" -- doesn't sound so promising to me. LW

Caterham's are absolute track weapons -- 0-100 in 3.4 seconds: http://www.caterham.co.uk/showroom/sevens/.../superlight.htm But as you said, that's basically all they are good for: would be horrible to try and use one as a dialy driver. If you flushed with cash I would probably choose a Lotus Elise: its still hard core, but at least it has a roof! Car and Driver did a track car roundup this month too: http://www.caranddriver.com/article.asp?se...article_id=8202 LW.

Hmm.. that's very interesting: less lag is always good Anyone got actual figures, or better yet, a comparison between the two? LW.

LOL. I would be the one trying to order a vegie burger LW.

Heh, sounds like my order might be delaying the whole order... sorry LW.

This is obviously a personal opinion, but don't go with the carbon "look" stuff because it looks fake, feels fake, and generally cheapens the look of the interior. If you must have something different, paint it (you could always, *shock*, paint it black), or get real c/f. LW.

Also interested if not sold, but need answers to Enrico's questions LW.

Hey Marty, I was thinking of aiming a little higher and grabbing the X200.2 and X1200.1 to leave a little "headroom" should I wish to change things latter: is this wise, or just a waste of money? I will contact you about some "real" pricing after I get my tax return and know exactly where my finances stand. Edit: I meant to say, I am not all that hung up on getting PG branded stuff. Thanks again, Lucien.

400HP: Yeah, Marty seems to be a bit of a legend wolverine: Did you use Dynamat? Mind if I ask how much it was? Ok, I have now selected and bought my speakers/subs: 1 x Phoenix Gold Ti Elite Comp6s 1 x Image Dynamics IDMax v.3 D2 1 x Existing speakers for rear fill. Given that, can anyone (Marty ) suggest some specific amps? Those PG Xenon amps look very nice -- and I saw Marty's comments on CAA which seem to be very postive -- but any other specific suggestions (ie. model numbers?). Thanks again guys for all the input -- appreciated Lucien.

Any thoughts on which is better, but I think you have pretty much answered that Any idea when the new Clarion VRX might be out? LW.

Marty: Any thoughts...? Cheers, Lucien.

Certainly is, and since the RRP is set by the manufacturers, its just price gouging: there is no way that shipping and distribution can account for the price difference Stupid thing is that the Australian operations seem to be well aware of the problem and not care: Clarion Australia will happily modify a US-imported 935VD for multi-region (for a price, of course). Bizarre. I feel for the local retailers: they just don't stand a chance LW.

Go for it -- I am in the market too, so happy to have it "hi-jacked" The Alpine's are considered excellent but boy do you pay -- with the Clarion's you can import them from the US and just grab the AU tuner: apparently this doesn't work with the Alpines so you have to buy at local prices which are 2-3x greater. Its a shame that AU prices are so screwed.. would much rather support a business like Frhx than some US company, but when there is that much of a differential (~$2500) then its hard not to let the pocket rule the heart. LW.

Good advice there Shan. There was also the change in clutch mechanism. So if Y1m gives you a few months of smiling, what does my Y1.23M R32 GT-R give me? A years worth? LW.

I assume you have seen this? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=29057 LW.

You seriously don't gave it? My god. Its like a right of passage. LW.

Yes, I understand that much, I was just curious as to the actual purpose of the additional "stuff" (yeah, go the technical terms ) behind the woofer. Does one particularly type dictate a larger sub box? The reason I ask is a don't want to surrender my entire boot to a subwoofer: I plan to do a custom sub box that moulds into one corner of the boot (with amps and various other bits on the other side) with a "stealth" type install, so loosing a vast quantity of my (already small) boot is not terribly desirable. Shame there is no Stealthbox made for the R32 GT-R by JL LW.

Oh dear, no simple answer than LW.

No, sorry, I didn't make myself very clear. I meant that looking side on, some woofers are a lot thinner than others. To use the JL Audio series as an examples, note how thin the 12W0 is compared to the 12W7: Does that make more sense? The W7 seems to have a lot more room behind it for the magnet/coils/etc to move... LW.

funkymonkey: don't worry, I am doing my best to "relieve" myself of my excess money issues fhrx: ok, I think I got the just of that.. I was never much good at electronics, so I guess I can't expect too much to stick Anyway, thanks for the explanation. The reason I asked was that I have noticed that some subs come in 2 Ohm and 4 Ohm versions of the same model, so I was just wondering which was the wiser choice. So would I be right in saying that a 2 Ohm version would allow a less powerful amp to power it (as there is less resistence), but the 4 Ohm version will produce better/deeper bass if driven by an appropriate amp? Finally, would an IDMax be overkill for the system I am building? They seem to be extremely well regarded on CAA for their response and depth of bass. One thing that just occurred to me: is there an optimal sub enclosure size for all 12" subs, or does it vary according to model? I have noticed that some subs seem to have a lot of, errr, "stuff" behind the actual driver, while others basically just have the driver with some wires running out the back. Is there some reason for this difference? Maybe I should actually demo some of these things first Cheers, Lucien.

That's cool, was just wondering if you had explicitly not listed them It all seems a bit the same to me: so many similar products at the same price points with same features, its hard to know what is worth purchasing :headspin: /me settles back to try and digest Fhrx's last post LW.

ferni: thanks -- perhaps grand-master guru Fhrx can help us Another question since I am piling them on, this time related to amps: is the LRx line of Audison good for my purposes, or should I be aiming higher? There seems to be huge jumps in amp prices from about 500-1000 to 1500-2000. Is the extra cost of something like the VRx line (or equivalent in other brands) worthwhile, or does it just buy marginal improvements and flashy cases? Frhx: I noticed you don't list Rocjford Fosgate or Phoenix Gold amongst your preferred amp manufactures. I have been reading through thread in CAA and a number of people seem to suggest amps from these too manufacturers (although, in Rockford's case, the 2004 line more than the older stuff). Any particular reasons you don't suggest these brands? Cheers, Lucien.

Just to add another question -- what is the difference between 2 Ohm and 4 Ohm gear, and specifically, in relation to subwoofers? Is either better/worse/indifferent? LW.

Mmmm.. I have been looking at the examples on yoour website The Alpine is that much more expensive unfortunately When I can get the Clarion for under $1200 (from overseas), spending $4000+ on the Alpine just doesn't make sense Any idea when Clarion is planning to release its new display unit/s? Cheers, Lucien. PS. There is a typo on your specials page. Xenon is spelt as "Xenin"

I also meant to say, has anyone get an opinion on the Clarion VRX935VD? I know Alpine gear is very well respected, and Eclipse (obviously), but what about Clarion? LW.