Dasmbo

Hi i have just done a engine rebuild with a forward facing manifolf greddy style and i had the black earth wires earthed near the vct contoller and i had the manifold painted and a thermal gasket and my engine would not fire i had to remove the paint and for extra insurance i ran an extra earth strap to manifold then car has ran sweet since hope this is of some help

Hi ill be using it mainly street driving maybe an occasional trip to the drags with a couple of friends and i have a std sump not a aftermarket baffled sump i do have 1 oil feed to the head blocked as this was recomended to me as i was installing the nitto pump. I used to change my oil and filter every 5000kms and i used nulon full synthetic oil previously.

Hi i have rebuilt my r33 rb25 engine and it is up for its first oil change. Mods full forged bottom end nitto oil pump I have read many threads on which oil to use i went to my local autobarn and they wanted to sell me Royal Purple oil which i think had traces of GOLD in it or at least its price reflected that he also said that i could get 10,000kms between oil changes i think he was full of ####. Most other places dont even have r33 skyline listed. Is there any benifit in using full synth oil over semi synth and so many different grades i dont mind paying extra for the right oil that is suitable for australian conditions i just want to start off with 1 brand and type/grade of oil and keep it that way.

Hi i used a VL Commodore untill i modified my original yesterday. I use a 80MM T/B i purchased from VULTUREMOTORSPORTS Quick question what oil feed is used for the vct on a rb30

My Approx final cost for my rebuild $5,500.00 + bits I cant remember CP Forged 8.5.1 Comp Pistons 87mm Manley H Beam Rods with ARP bolts etc Nitto Oil Pump & Crank Coller ACL Bearings ARP Main & Head Studs Genuine Water pump Thermostat & Timing belt kit Cometec Gasket Set Greddy style manifold 80mm Throttle Body All welsh plugs H/Duty 6 Puk clutch Kit Gearbox Bearing Kit New Hoses MACHINING Block: Decked Bored & Honed Crank Tunnel honed Top of Bores Chamfered Oil holes on Crankshaft Radiused Crank Coller fitted Crack tested crankshaft Head surface ground new seals valves checked and reseated MY INPUT Remove all Casting flashing from inside Block Die grind excess material around head to allow better oil return Assemble Motor Match ported intake manifold Mirror Polished Manifold intake Runners Modify pipes for manifold & blow off to suit manifold Fit new Bearings in gearbox Paint and install….. Engine started pretty much straight up only had to tweak the acc valve a little and all is Running fine Normal Temp and the best oil pressure this car has ever had….lol I also purchased a lot of the parts from America as our dollar was $1.09 over there plus The prices were much cheaper than in Australia Once again thanks for every ones input i plan to have it on a tuned on a dyno after I run the engine in. Will have to find someone that can tune it with a emanage blue.

Hi justin yes i had the block bored 87mm and honed with torque plate got block decked the cylinders chamfered mains tunnel closed/honed oil holes in crank radioused + crack tested and crank coller fitted ended up taking them 2+ months to do the job for me as they could not do all the machine work themselves.

No probs good to see your on the ball. It would be a big waste of money if one didnt do the tunnel hone ARP stud kits are not cheap..... Sam...

Hi the turbo im using on my car at the moment was bought as a hi flowed unit. It is larger than the original stock unit that came off the car.I have noticed that the compessor wheel has like a 8 blade config but i have not seen any like it. I was told by the person i bought it off that he was advised by the shop that did the work not to exceed 25psi i have uploaded a couple of pics to see if anyone can identify it and give any info thanks Sam..........

Hi yes i didnt mention it i was going to post everything i had done plus cost etc. For the boring and honing i went to a couple of engineering shops and told them what i wanted before i decided on who was going to get my hard earned cash. Total dollars for machining crack testing enlarging oil galleries etc including crank collar installation was $1455.00 so made sure everything was done as required which could be seen when assembling motor when i was double checking with plasigauges on main and big end bearings. I have built quite a few motors over the years for drag racing etc.and you have to use same technique with all high output motors or it will end up as a big bang theory.....lol.

I have uploaded a few pics of the rebuild

Hi i used a few old holden tappet push rods cut a slot down them at one end so i could fold abrasive paper in and connet it to my drill which has a flexi drive and used different grades of paper untill i got a mirror finish same as flapper disk i started of with belt sander paper and cut the push rods to different lengths so i could get different angles. I match ported the manifold to suit the head ports i also mirror polished my runners on my inlet manifold but left the ports in the head stock, Also polished up the exhaust at the head ports and turbo end. I tried the flapper disks but soon gave them up good luck.......

I have seen a shift light converted with a relay to switch the vct and it was ajustable with the shift light control you might want to try that or a rpm switch could also be a lack of an earth somewhere in the loom

Hi and thanks for all who gave me pointers and tips for my rebuild got it started this afternoon and took it for a test drive all went well temp normal great oil pressure for a change was suppised how well it started up and ran since i had added a couple of things once again thanks and Jono i took a few of you hints and applied them to my rebuild thanks guys................

Hi i have my part back from machine shop and now im looking for a supplier for plastigauges cant find any other than u.k. anyone know where i can buy local thanx Sam....

Looking for timing belt so many to choose from i have read that some are noisy any recomendations ????

Hi thanks for the input i cant change the pistons allready have themabout all i can do is hope the head and block decking might raise it a little I have a standard turbo had it hi flowed also have gtr syle manifold lightened flywheel i will just have to live with what i have purchased. Another Question i also have a rb20 cylinder head would this be of any benifit raising CR...????

Hi so far has cost around $3200.00 for parts hey its my baby. Im one of those people who like to keep all the cars engine original. Why i have asked all the questions. This is my first rb inline six engine i have touched and i want to get it right and find out what problems i might run into now and the future. {wont get permission of the missus to do it again} Dont worry about me building my own engine im sure ill get it ok.

As for your rods get the ones with the larger rod bolts visit the Manleyperformance.com web site and download catalog it has info on what rods might suit you needs

Hi i would take plugs out and rocker covers off and do a visual and turn motor over by hand taking the motor out is a pain in the #ss

Update engine build. I have most of the parts to do my engine rebuild i have 1 set of CP forged pistons + rings pins clips 8.5:1 compression 1 set of Manley con rods/ARP 2000 rod bolts Nitto Oil Pump +Crank coller Cometec Gasket set ARP Head studs ARP main studs New Timing belt + idler and tensioners Engine block i have left the vvt restrictor alone blocked the middle restrictor and installed a 1.5mm restrictor in the rear Block Head and Crankshaft now at machine shop for chemical clean head surace decked bored and honed and crank coller installed Waiting to find out what size bearings will be needed I hope i have not missed anything looking for more input to my rebuild and looking for any more info on anything i may have missed thanks Sam...

Hi is there a thread on here or website that has info on oil restrictors also would i have to put restrictors on all 3 oil feeds ?? sorry about all the questions just that id like to get it right first time. The car wont see any track work maybe occasional day at drags and normal driving

Thanks for your advice has been taken on board just the type of info i was looking for. I like doing my own rebuilds i have done plenty of engines over the years. What is your view on oil restrictors to the top of the engine do the lifters suffer ???? thanks Sam....

Hi thanks for your input yes its a low pwr outlook at the moment but like to leave room for the futurei have extra mods id like to do in the future so thats why i want a reasonable bottom end. I would also like it to run the car on a lower octane fuel somewhere in the future. The original motor was going great never used oil went well no problems then i accidently filled the car up with regular unleaded in canberra and the car was lucky to make it home. Number 3 piston nearly parted company with itself split around oil ring recess was blowing smoke like no tomorrow.I dont want to change engine block as i like to keep the car,s main components original. You never really know what you are getting buying second hand.

Hi bob thanks for the info left head crank and block at machine shop will get the news tomorrow on condition of items Sam....

Hi thanks for your reply power goal 200-250 rwkw.Taking crank head and block to machine shop tomorrow 2 have them checked i will probably go with a rebore. The reason i want forged bottom end i cracked one of the original pistons and dont want the worry any more. The car will be driven normally 95% of the time and unleash it now and then. I was also looking at oil pumps and it seems there are as many pros and cons with them not to mention huge cost. Might stick with the K.I.S.S protocol and stick with a standard item.