Dasmbo

remove top front camshaft cover and make sure your timing belt is not shredding its self. Or get a very long screwdriver and put the handle hard against your ear and use it like a doctors stethoscope to track where the noise is coming from

Hi after all these years my original viscous diff has turned itself into a single spinner. The car is 1996 gtst model i have owned it for nearly14 years and has 150,000 kms on the clock and diff. I dont want to get another viscous diff to replace it with i believe there was a second model of diff which came out in this model that was a Real LSD. Can anyone inform me to what type it was and if possible post me a pic of any real LSD diffs that would fit my car many thanks Sam...

2 Different systems that should not communicate with each other steering and ignition i think you have some serious wiring problems that needs fixed

Yes i agree with you there not many tuning places like to tune home built turbo cars i basicly had to sign a waver to get my enging tuned first time but i have had many years experience building high performance engines years ago so i had no problems in that department. Plus years ago i didnt cost as much to build and modify American and Australian cars. The Turbo Jap cars are much more expensive to modify and build and not many people can afford to throw endless money at there project my 33 cost me around 18 thousand to build and that was just the parts lucky i didnt have to pay for labour but i did build much stronger than needed and only have it mildly tuned. Like many years ago i have helped a couple of blokes up here in the northern rivers are to modify there cars and it will be interesting to see what figures they get when there finished and tuned. Id post my dyno sheets but lost them when i moved and my car is lucky to get driven 5000kms in a year i have owned it for 13 years and done 35000kms and have put 10000kms on the engine since the rebuild

Buy one from any other country that has imported them there are quite a lot of skylines for sale here in Australia depends what your looking for or try a land locked country where the chance of rust is much less

take starter out and small g clamp on starter ring gear or flywheel

Im sure the head can be repaired but it not just a simple close and hone of the journals and caps the head will have to be stripped alloy journal areas will have to be welded and built up then if all goes well will have to be machined new caps cams guides possible valves lifter buckets it wont be a cheap job i hope for your sake you have very deep pockets. I would be looking for another head i think it would be much cheaper try Lewis engines see what they might have or can do for you they did my head and it wasnt damaged like the one your looking at and my head cost me over $5000.00 seven years ago

Do you still have both R and L R33 S1 door cards/Trims

Wish Pirelli still made 275X35X18 and 235x40x18 P6 all season tyres they were the best i ever had on my car they dont make them any more got conned into buying Pirelli P Zero's which were crap havnt had a decent tyre on it since currently have Dunlop ice skates on it at the moment

I had these Tein coilovers and controller fitted to my car a few years it was novel made it easy to ajust the shock dampeners syuted for lazy people but i had to disconect the motors and wiring as someone smashed my passenger window and helped themselves to the controller and a couple of other things so now i just ajust the shock dampening manually company wanted nearly $600.00 for new controller so that wasnt going to happen a second time but the dampeners work great

Welcome to the club Hope you enjoy your skyline make sure you always put the highest grade gasolene without ethanol in it change oils at regular times i change engine oils every 5000kms gearbox diff every 12 months as well as power steering fluids and brake fluids dont sit on the rev limiter have fun

I miss the days when skyline owners did most of the work and modifications themselves or got there fellow skyline friends and mates of mates around to help them do there cars. But these days people have a bunch of money then get on to sites like this one and ask all the questions that need asked then go to there big fat bank account and recommended workshop tell them what they want pay the bucks and then get back on to the forums and tell everyone what great power they have what it cost them and how good the workshop built there car. I myself belong to the latter. I built my car only got the machine shop to do the milling did my own painting and had welding shops to weld up different things i wanted manufactured. I did transmission motor building myself i even used parts in my car and got critised and told they were no good and yet i have been driving my car on the road for the past 8 - 9 years on bp98 it has been on the dyno twice ans still has 473HP -352KW at the rear wheels with 15psi of boost. Built my own engine gearbox sorted out my own suspension upholstery everything else myself. Now a day its special fuels huge injectors stroked engines massive boost all this extra power must be bitch to drive on the road not to mention traction problems. I think that is why nobody posts there builds anymore the fun has gone. I see people asking questions on the forums now and instead of an answer they get told its been covered before or just plain get paid out because they may ask a dumb question definately not as welcoming on online forums as it was 10-15 years ago.

Hi Boost does not always make hi power unless you like melting things Lots of people make lots of power with 15psi and you will still get the big pisssssh sound when you lift off the thunder stick

Hi i cant remember what the exact clearences i used for my rebuild im am pretty sure it was the std settings for the engine but and bearings used were kevlar type cant remember the brand when you do the building of the engine i suggest you use plasti gauges do your bearing clearences much more accurate its a bit more of a pain in the ass. The clearences you have after you have torqued the rods and crank into the block that is most important at high horsepower. I also had my engine block line honed to keep clearences uniform and used new forged h-beam con rods but its all about the clearences you have after bearings are torqued that is important i have been running a street car for 7 years with 473hp at the rear wheels with no probs i would also recommend an after market oil pump with the oil pump adapter fitted to the front of the crank which makes the the oiling system more secure and less chance of blowing the engine at high rpm

When i was upgrading i used a Wolf 550 ecu as my local tuner is very experienced with this type of ecu i was able to do all the work to my car at home and plug in ecu as it was a direct plug in. I contacted Wolf told the the mods and they sent me a setup to load into ecu so i could drive my car to to tuner safely the other reason i got the Wolf was its an Australian company with a life time warranty and i upgraded from the series 4 wolf to the 550 unit. I would suggest you check your local tuner and find out which ecu he is most experienced with tuning your car and purchase that one but beware its going to lighten your pocket and wallet a fair bit but its the only safe way unless you like giving your money away. My gtst rb25 makes 353kw 473hp at rear wheels using BP 98 ron fuel and has done this for the past 7 years with no problem

Also make sure they didnt mix up your fuel pressure return pipes mixed up

Hi i had similar problem backfiring and knock sensor showing problems turned out my coil packs were mostly stuffed try firing up the engine with the coil cover removed and look at the coil packs with the engine running at night with no light and see if your coilpacks are are shorting to the engine mine were like a mini lightning show shorting out every where new coil packs and plugs gapped to 0.8mm and cured my problem is your car a series 1 or 2 if series 1 could also be an igniter prob your boosting prob could be the hose on the high /low boost controller hope this helps

You may have split the clutch fork arm at the pivot ball area happened to mine when i first upgraded to a higher rated pressure plate. Replaced it with an aftermarket fork arm and pivot ball pin.

Hi i have had Tein Advance Street Coilovers fitted to my car for the last 6 years they are very good not to stiff and mt car rides well and sticks to the road like glue i tried the jap types prior to the Tein,s but found them too hard for our roads in oz Here is a pic showing ride height

sorry i missed the last letter it was a nissan r32 2 litre gtst turbo gearbox that i installed into my holden vk commodore and fitted a 1996 holden vl bearing and syncro rebuild kit into it before fitting it to my commodore. I did however notice that both of those gearboxes were much smaller in size compared with my r33 gtst gearbox which is fitted to my r33gtst

Im sure the r32 gts gearbox is the same gearbox used in the 3ltr holden commodore non turbo model.

I dont use an apexi myself i have had a Wolf for the past 8 years now and was tuned at 473 hp and had it checked 2 years ago and still making 470hp safely and yes i still have the original engine block that the car came of the production line a lot of failures are caused by the driver not the equipment

Its still better than a std ecu everyone has there own choice in the end its only as good as the tuner and his equipment

Hi do you still have door trims

I wonder how many Skylines still have there original engines in them