Dasmbo

I have Pirelli P6 Tyres 235x40x18 front and 275x35x18 rear and i was allways wearing the inside of the tyres out. I installed ajustable upper front camber arms + Rear camber arms plus ajustable castor arms took it to my wheel alignment place and he did a top job the tyres wear better now and i dont get half the wheelspin i used to get and driving in the wet has improved out of sight. There are many suppliers on ebay but remember you only get what you pay for i suggest getting known brands as its your life on the line when using inferior parts.

Hi i have Kei Office front coilovers and HKS Hyper D Coilovers on the rear and one of the rear coilovers has started leaking oil. I have taken them off the car and replaced them with originals for now. Question who and where in australia can i get them REBUILT or is there a couple of kits that i can buy and do it myself. I know i can go buy new ones but i dont want to stuff around setting the car back up as the car handles like it is on rails and i have gotten used to it and i dont want to go through the spring choices again as it took me a while and spring changes to get it to handle like it does and i dont really want to change it.

Hi Steve thanks for your reply phoned simon and going to drop into his workshop on the way home from work this week thanks sure beats going all the way to sydney.

Yep i know its never going to work properly without some sort of ecu management I have a Emange Blue+ Z32 AFM 3bar pressure sensor that i was going to use but Im in 2 minds over it So many ecu choices then people to tune them i was told today the dyno place in nowra shut shop over a year ago plus id rather go to sydney to get it tuned spent to much money not to. Thanks for all your inputs ill do some researching on ecu's and who tunes them

Hi thanks for your input after reading your post it makes sense so i went through the rubbish bin found said dampener and fitted it back to where it should be The reason i have been playing with fuel pressure my motor is now run in i know most people tell me it was ready to flog after a couple of hundred kms. But im old school I had the fuel pressure set a bit low 30psi for the first 5000kms also timing was aset at 10deg for that time also noticed that spark plugs were still pretty clean. After 5000kms i wanted to set everything as per std si i upped the timing to 15 deg fuel pressure at 42psi so off i went for a drive was hopeing to put a gin on my face after sooo long but come home a litle dissapointed.What happened drove car untill everything warmed up got on to my local back road and got on the thunder stick. Stuck me to the seat right up to around 4500rpm then starts misfiring almost sounds like the engine is flooding it keeps misfiring for a few hundred meters then comes good ran it this way gently for 3 days then took out the plugs and they are black and sooty. I thought it might be the plugs NGK Platinum so i put a new set of Denso iridium plugs in still doing the same. Here are the engine stats: New Engine: ,,Hi-flow Turbo:,,Coil Paks:,,Plugs:,,Fuel Pump:,, 80MM Throttle Body + greddy intake manifold : ,,Fuel Regulator Compresson: 1=163psi 2=165psi 3=160psi 4=165psi 5=163psi 6=160psi Changes from old setup: "MANIFOLD" "THROTTLE BODY" "8.5.1 COMP FORGED PISTONS +40" New Fuel Pump+Coilpaks Plugs gapped at .8mm Engine idle 650rpm with throttle switch disconnected 15deg timing 750rpm with switch connected still 15deg stat timing. When i move the ajustment screw to set the pressure to 42psi with vac line to reg disconected just before it gets to 42psi the pressure droppes to 38psi on the gauge and wont ajust any higher unless i touch the throttle a little then the pressure goes to around 50psi then back to38psi i have ajusted it so that im getting 42psi with thottle moved a little but it stll drops back to 38psi does not move when vac line plugged back on. Can anyone shed some light on the problem as i need it to run ok before i get new ecu and have it tuned. I LIVE 3 HRS AWAY FROM NEAREST DYNO PS. SORRY TO MAKE THIS INTO A SHORT NOVEL

Hi thanks for the reply i dint see any reply yesterday si i have allready removed and tossed it into the bin Since i removed it setting the fuel pressure is much easier now i have to find the second one and ill get rid of that as well quote name='SargeRX8' timestamp='1327672838' post='6207247'] It's a dampener, leave it there. There is another one in the fuel tank.

Possible condensation under coil cover

I have a unknow part inline with my fuel return line it is located in the same area as the stock fuel filter it looks like some sort of regulator with no ajustments. I have a Aeromotive fuel regulator and i was wondering if this part would affect the pressure as it is inline after the ajustable fuel reg. Also do i need it as i cant find any info on it or what it is thanks Sam.....

Hi this is how mine is setup works great large hoses from r/covers and smaller hose to turbo inlet catch can full of coarse stainless steel wool and pvc stock

Been using them for about a year now perfect fit with no problems also double check your ignition timing too advanced can cause a similar problem when air is cool and dense

I have done something similar i used CP +40 8.5.1 comp pistons and Manley con rods arp2000 bolt set and found no problems with them. All RB25DET engines have block mounted oil squirters.CP pistons dont interfere with them when getting your motor bored you also might want to get the block decked crank tunnels honed and final hone in yor bores done with a torque plate I would recomend at least replaceing the valve springs with new standard ones and get the head decked as i think the pistons from usa are slightly lower comp and get the valve seats done I was told that i would lose performance and later turbo spooling beause of the lower comp pistons but i had the head and block decked and fitted a greddy manifold and got rid of about 4 feet of turbo pipe work and found if anything turbo spools faster{hi-flow}.

Forgot on my last post ALSO TAKE A COUPLE OF ENGINE BAY PHOTOS BEFORE YOU START THAT WAY YOU HAVE A REFERENCE FOR INSTALLING THE ENGINE AGAIN

I have just rebuilt my engine and i couldnt find a written procedurethis is what i did. Disconnect battery Remove Exhaust dump pipe to tail pipe drop engine coolant and remove radiator Remove plastic around shifter and remove shifter cover & remove g/stick Disconect neutual and reverse switch connections also remove clutch slave cylinder and tape it togeather so it doesnt leak zip tie it out of the way Undo tailshaft but dont remove Jack and support rear of engine so it doesnt hit the steering rack get it a low as you can as i had to use very long extension bars to get to the bellhousing bolts remove transmission with tailshaft connected so not to loose oil. Also keep engine supported. Disconnect Engine wiring loom oil switch steering switch air cond wire. Undo heater hoses turbo to air filter brake booster vac hoses fuel lines disconnect pwr steering res and drain Unbolt and remove pwr steering pump and braket. Also unbolt air cond pump and bracke zip tie out of the way. Undo engine mount nuts and remove engine refit engine in revese order I hope i havnt forgotten anything ote name='riley' timestamp='1326791310' post='6192287'] does anyone have a guide on the correct procedure to remove a series 2 rb25det engine from a r33 in the correct manner. i can pull an engine no problem but i just want make sure i dont run into any snags along the way. as i only have 2 days to do it. thanks

might have a look at the specs for the neo head. Might be an easier conversion i dont want to go overboard as i have just fitted the motor with 8.5.1 pistons and dont want to go any lower comp ratio i also have accessories that might not fit the neo head { intake/exhaust manifolds } but thanks for your input ill give it a much closer look sam,

Hi i blocked the middle oil gallery and left the front and rear standard also using nitto oil pump

Hi after rebuilding my engine RB25det with the use of oil restrictors my lifters make a little bit of noise when at idle after a few mins goes away if engine rpm is lifted to around 1000rpm. Is there a conversion to solid lifters like other rb engines use cant seem to find much info about this any one ???????? Sam..

Hi im looking to build another engine for my old VK holden it currently has for the past 10 years an rb30 out of an early skyline.Its getting pretty tired and i have quite a collection of parts i would like to use for this rebuild I have a rb30 block rb20det head rb25det inlet/exhaust manifolds injectors and fuel rail Can anyone see any problems with these part matching if so i would also if all was to run fine then hook up a std rb25 turbo/manifold i know its not for a skyline but my other car is.......................

Had the same problem it ended up being my timing was at 21 deg static and it was causing the fault ajusted it back to 15 deg fault has never come back,

Hi you dont have a turbo timer had similar prob with frinds car had to remove it

Hi thanks to all whq replied to my pst i have done my first oil change and i have gone with Castol Edge 10w 60 synthetic with advertised additives the local autobarn and not so cheap have a limited selection cost $73.00 did notice staight away increase in oil pressure with engine hot at idle i think i will give this a go for a while

Hi if it is the water connection at the back of the engine intake side i used brass fittings with copper pipe silver soldered never corrode again

Hi i would remove the head which you will need a 10mm male hex socket take to machine shop and have it skimmed and checked for cracks buy new std gasket and put it back together with a new thermostat and make sur that the cooling system is working before you test drive it and you should be fine. its your cheapest altenitive...

Also check you bottom radiator hose if it is to old and gone soft not hard it could be sucking itself together blocking the radiator had it happen to my rb30 in my VK Commodore

Hi i would be checking the turbo feed line incase it might be cracked or the oil return lines to the sump from the turbo and cylinder head also check rocker cover bolts.There is not much else there unless you have damaged your sump remove the heat sheilds over your tubo and it should give you a better inspection. With your engine not firing it could still be your fuel pump or your crank angle sensor check to see if your fuel line pressurises then the ignition is switched on and that you also hear the pump prime up.

Had the same problem 4 cracked pistons not good