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put the powerFC back in and it no longer blows that fuse, car started a bit rough first time nfi whats going on unless its a stuffed stock ecu

Yep, my original ecu

Yep disconnected battery first, I'll try the powerfc again

stock AFM - sorry I forgot to mention, its a S2 r33 gtst any ideas what that fuse actually hooks up with so I can check it? The climate control unit comes on when switched to ACC and when i press A/C I can hear the relay in the engine compartment click but nothing else happens. Hard to imagine anything wouldve fried when all that changed was the ecu

Hey guys Took out the powerFC I had in the car and put the stock ECU back in. Car started for about 1 second and then stopped. When I tried to start it again it cranks but doesn't fire up. I had a look in the fuse box under the dash and the "aircon" (エアコン) 10A fuse was blown, I replaced this, tried to start and the same thing happened - it started for 1-2 seconds then died, after that it sounds like it is turning over but wont start up. No other fuses I can see are blown at all. Only mods are the pod filter and FMIC, nothing else has changed except for me taking the powerfc out and putting the stock ecu back.

hmm, this might have happened to mine - my passenger door doesnt close properly, and there is a gap at the bottom of the window in the door jam (and water actually can get in through there) - Ive tried adjusting the latch in as far as possible, with no luck. Maybe its the shit weld that has warped the door?

mlr said above 2 litres

i think id need a photo of that, ive read it twice and still cant picture it in my head

my powerfc flashes the engine light?

he means all you have do to is look at your own VIN plates on the car. if your car doesnt have them its illegal

Hey guys, not sure when this started as its been going on for a while now, not a huge issue but something id like to sort out anyway. Basically, first thing in the morning starting the car it will turn over and then stall. Second time turning over the ignition will start the car no problem at all. Running a powerfc, just recently put in brand new spark plugs, fuel filter was replaced recently also. Furthermore, after the second time starting it turning it off and on theres no more issues with starting. Any ideas? Could it possibly be the fuel pump? edit: forgot to mention - doesnt matter if its a hot or cold day this doesnt seem to affect it either way

pimsluers is very good also this start at lesson 1 and work from there

FAQ down?

also interested in this for r33 series 2 but also all of the hard weatherstripping that surrounds the rear window, along the top of the roof etc. also looking for the actual door seals as they are starting to fall away from the car

sweet thanks for the help guys got it done, decided to do 2 dry tests (just incase i did something wrong on the first one because ive never done it before) and a wet test on first test got 1:174 2:172 3:171 4:171 5:171 6:171 second time got 1:172 2:172 3:170 4:170 5:169 6:168 tried to to a wet test, put a tiny pit of engine oil into cyl 1, put in the tester and turned it over but the guage started to read up to like 200 psi so i crapped myself and stopped - then tried to crank it again and it wouldnt crank over at all only the fan would start up, nfi what happened so i just threw in the new plugs put it all together. it started up ok after this but it did blow white smoke out the exhaust for a while, hopefully it wont blow smoke next time :S

not really worried, just changing the spark plugs so i figured id do this at the same time and make sure everything is actually sweet before i start spending money on other mods, then only to find out something is going to go wrong Cyl 1 is the front of the engine where the radiator etc is right?

ok sweet, fuel pump fuse is the top fuse in the boot of an r33 right err 5th one i mean

Just want to confirm something about doing a compression test - havent gotten an answer in the ancient DIY thread i bumped in the tutorial section (i guess under general maintenence is a bit more browsed than there) so hopefully I can get a faster answer here as i plan to do this tomorrow. Basically just want to double check something with the procedure. One user suggested that unplugging the crank angle sensor will prevent spark AND fuel injection - is that right? So would i be right in assuming I could - disconnect CAS + coilpack loom (which will be out because the spark plugs are out anyway i guess) - depress accelerator fully for WOT - turn key as if i was starting the car until gauge needle stops moving - repeat with small amount of oil for a wet test Or will I have to unplug other things/remove fuses etc?

lights will overhang the bumper afaik

hey guys sorry to bump a real old thread just wanna make sure im gonna do this right firstly is this compression gauge going to be suitable: http://imgur.com/bzHN3.jpg secondly, would i be right in thinking a good way to crank the engine to get a reading would be - disconnect CAS + coilpack loom - depress accelerator fully for WOT - turn key as if i was starting the car - go check reading on gauge, do this for dry and wet test as poster above.

just did mine in normal paint, wasnt expensive so im not worried if the heat makes it flake off ill just paint it again edit: rocker cover seals + half moons set i got from kudos http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/ni...twin-p-207.html

also removing the CAS is it only the angle of the actual unit that has to be marked to put back, or what if the spinning bit on the back of the CAS moves?

im in the process of doing mine now, ive taken the coil pack cover off and sprayed it, however i tried to move the "twin cam 2500" decal" - turns out its stuck on real good and its aluminium or something so now its completley munted.. anyone know where to get a new one of these? furthermore the seals that run along the edge of the coilpack cover were very brittle and just cracked and fell apart - anything suitable to replace this or is it not necessary?

oh theres 2 bolts holding the centre garnish in behind the boot trim dont try and just pull the garnish off

take off center 'skyline' garnish, plastic plugs there, also inside the boot behind the trim in the corners there are 3 screws each side holding it in