Jonno34

yeap for colins engine bay I used - FI's GPC and Xenit on the tougher spots, rinsed it off and applied PERL i generally use simple green for this sort of stuff, but it needed something stronger and GPC was far more effective

sending you a PM mate

cheers mate appreciate it especially coming from you!

hey mate, you can easily do this yourself. go out to your local Super cheap repco etc and get yourself a good polish (cutting compound) a foam applicator pad and a microfibre cloth to remove it. meguiars ScratchX works well enough on headlights, although it fails as a scratch remover, but is somewhat usable on paint as well simply apply the scratchX on the foam pad, then use that on the headlights and after the polish has broken down to a good degree, remove it with the microfibre. the yellowing should be much improved alternatively, head down to final inspection. I highly recommend them, but id imagine itd be a hell of a lot cheaper to give it a go yourself best of luck

i take that as a compliment ill PM you the price

after finishing with the paintwork, it was onto the fine trimming this involved .. badges: headlights: plastic trim: i went all out with this, ensuring every single plastic trim was looking its best. window rubbers and the edges of his guards were also done. exhaust tips: and a clean of his interior, followed by protectant and some extra shine! there are milllions more pictures, which i burnt onto a CD for him this detail took me the better part of 3-4 days in total. Hope you enjoyed!

Hey everyone, Ive just finished a restoration #2 detail on Colins 34 Sedan! I also detailed his engine bay, plastics, and interior Here are some of the pics, unfortunately I didnt quite think the picture taking through, and some of the shots arent in the same spot, or some with flash and some without. however i hope you can still see the difference the detail made to his car! Some of the most intensive work went into detailing his engine bay, as you can see, it was pretty dirty! Its still not 100% perfect, but after a decontamination with GPC, Xenit, and with some PERL on the plastics and gloss boost on the paintwork it came out alright! After decontaminating areas like the door jambs and engine bay, i moved to the paintwork. starting with a clay black .. which ended up looking like after the clay block, i moved onto machine polishing. this is the condition of the car before the detail and now after the 2 stages of machine polishing and 2 layers of sealant

the result may be stunning but the cost of the east bear kit is ridiculous! I also dont see the point of making my GT look like a gt-r, id rather have a nice looking GT than a GT that looks like a GT-R!

LOL im overwhelmed by everyones compliments. very touched. thank you all. I would say the same for each and every one of your cars

omg. i need me a turbo, im so jelly of the power figures haha, she must be a beast now!

my n/a 34 uses about 11-12L/100km for driving around town .. if ive beeen out for long drives and lots of freeway action it gets to about 10 or so at best. not particularly the most fuel efficient cars. if you dont want a falcodore cos their common, you prob wont be wanting a magna or anything of the sorts - but imo for your kinds of purposes they would be the best .. especially if theyve got LPG conversions. theres usually a reason why their common though - consider that. my next recommendation would be something like a civic or as marc said a SSS pulsie .. but you dont like FWD why? you've said yourself you leave the burnouts and drifts for your mates bushbasher - so whats the problem with a nice FWD car? ive driven SSS pulsars and VTEC civics, i love em. their pretty good fun, and imo could well be more fun than my n/a skyline. all mine does is look pretty and handle well and comfortably with a set of decent coilovers and good tyres. you could make a FWD handle just as well with similar mods, which you'll probably get for cheaper too! oh and your eardrums will blow if you exhorst it - again, not the best choice for a daily. and btw lol at the 121 bubble bros

im not entirely too sure about the details of the system, i got it second hand off martin on these forums all ive done is change the end muffler to a mild steel oval one cat was still in good condition last time the car was checked .. but perhaps this will be a good excuse to go get a hi flow one on the drone/loudness is only till about 2500 rpm, and the car is much louder some days, near quiet and nice others - perfect on those few days. perhaps ill get a hi flow on and get kermit to check out the rest of the system at the same time though *edit* ive been seriously considering swapping back to the stocker, but it does feel a fair bit more responsive this way and i quite like it

mines only 2.5" and already has 2 mufflers/resonators in it and an oval on the end

yeah its a huge difference, brings a smile to my face everytime i go for a drive still haha thankfully its not too stiff, my kidneys are still intact! I was pretty worried about that. Will be even better once i get my alignment sorted and the wheel nut fixed up Ill get some pics up once i get time to detail my car ric

I wish I could justify buying myself another but the bosch is great, just gets a bit heavy. luckily i hit the gym

I believe mitch uses the concours 900 polisher of waxit.com.au? you can also use something like the bosch gex150T or a festool rotex as for polishes - FI CAP range is great and thats what i use, but ive also heard great things about menzerna polishes im sure there are other good polishes though but thats just the two main ones ive heard about

yeah the coilovers lowered it massively, it was on stock suspension before thanks for that mate cleared it up well! I need to pop by bridgestone anyway, one of my studs broke when the wheels were being removed. thanks again, glad its a somewhat easy fix!

definitely gonna keep your contact! almost every single car ive looked at has needed a regas - or so they say lol its always something more when i go get it checked

i got a berklee oval mild steel muffler put on my exhaust system to try and quiet it down and remove the drone - was a cannon and stainless before i dont think it got very much better at all, cant even tell the difference it drones like mad till about 2500 rpm and sounds great all the way onwards. but i drive like a grandma so its rare im above 2500rpm my exhaust already had 2 centre mufflers put in when i bought it im seriously considering putting the stocker back on - my ears are being damaged lol. quite sure its legal though, im just being a wuss about it

hey guys i just put the BC's in my car - BR type on my 34 n/a coupe. ive got them on the softest setting possible, and its great. only problem is when the roads were wet yesterday after a long dry period, after turning a corner the tyres would loose traction under acceleration - even very lightly accelerating (i was driving granny spec, since i know roads tend to be quite slippery when it rains after a dry period) is this somewhat normal? my car has never lost traction so badly or as much as yesterday in the 3 years ive had it so far

1) Clay barring removes surface contaminants, if you slide your hand along your paint and you can hear a rough sort of sound, its contaminated! once you clay bar you'll be able to tell it feels a lot smoother already. it also helps your wax/sealant last longer once you apply it. it shouldnt matter how old your paintwork is, i clay barred my 1991 sexcel with no clear coat! 2) sealant should be your last step after properly preparing the surface. on a brand new car all you need to prep is just the clay bar. generally with sealants you layer them, they have a certain curing and bonding period, and after this you rewash the car and put another layer on. depending on the product a few layers can last from 6 months to a year or even more at times, all depending on how the car is treated. on a somewhat decently prepped car, you can still apply sealant on top, it doesnt "trap" the dirt in, you'll still get the protection but it just wont have that smooth feel and wont be quite as good a result! 3) the most important thing to me when looking for a car wash shampoo is that it doesnt remove any old wax or sealant layers. buy yourself a good wash solution, but even an off the shelf product should be fine for it, just make sure its gentle on your wax! mothers and meguiars make decent products, but my favourite off the shelf is auto glym. otherwise pay waxit.com.au a visit or finalinspection.com.au 4) wax is a similar thing to sealant. wax is carnauba based. it is a last step product. you apply them after prepping the car and it gives the car protection and shine. im pretty sure the trade off on wax vs sealant is that while sealant lasts longer, it does not make the paint appear as glossy or shine as much as a wax would. and while wax looks better, it doesnt last as long, and can be harder to apply in some cases. off the shelf waxes like meguiars tech waxes are generally synthetic waxes if im not wrong, but be careful since they have "cleaners" in them, which is why layering them doesnt work well, and they will remove your expensive sealant layers! tech wax is still a great product though, im quite a fan. waxes and sealants need to be applied at varying periods. for my cars every year i will clay bar and seal with 3 layers, sometimes i get a bit excited and add an extra layer of seal after each wash so theres more than 3. and on every wash i use a quick detailer like FI gloss boost to add more gloss and a tiny bit of protection. every 2 - 3 years i will clay bar, machine polish, and seal with 3 layers. (although im tempted to machine polish after just one year on my car - the swirl marks are so much more obvious on what was a perfect and swirl free surface) for a car with something like tech wax, id probably clay bar once a year, and apply a layer of wax every 2-3 months or so - on my cars its never really lasted longer than that. it all just depends on the product feel free to contact me, like i said i have most products for most purposes, should be able to show you what to use and stuff, or if you want i can prep and seal it for you, then show you what to use to maintain it.

i used to use them, but my last few cans failed miserably. within the span of applying to all 4 tyres, the first one will have lost the tyre shine already. not even joking.

my workplace details for Holden, Mitsubishi and Audi although we rarely get them. sadly they all get the same treatment. I try to do the best job i can on all the cars passed to me, it takes me longer per car but i just feel bad sending out a car using that kind of product - autosmart I used to bring in my own MF's and some of my own products from home, got much better results, but times are tough these days and I just cant afford it anymore lol my boss pays me terribly. and yeap love the new FI lube cant wait for dark matter to be released

Weelll I work at a car detailer, and we do the "details" for new cars at dealerships and let me tell you. its lolworthy. we just pull the seat covers off, quick wash and dry with crappy products, tyre shine, mini vac and done. charge you $100 and you got what you could do yourself in 30 mins and for $100 you could go buy yourself a whole bunch of better products. we definitely dont clay block them, in fact, my boss doesnt even understand what a clay bar is for. i agree with SS8 gohan, clay block the entire car and seal and enjoy PM me if you want im in perth and ive been detailing cars from home as an extra to working part time at my car detailer in osb park i have all of FI's stuff and waxits stuff as well and i can run you through all the products you need and how to use em - i have em all at my place! just come by and we can have a chit chat about all the different stuff I use SS8 gohan - doesnt body shampoo degrade the clay when you use it? I dont know if PPBS does, but the wash we use at work definitely does, the clay ended up crumbling in my hands after it. not the best considering how expensive clay bars are! never tried it at home myself, i just buy lube from FI - tis cheap and btw OP congrats on the new car!

clean quickly - use FI's Power wheel cleaner its amazing, most weeks i just spray a bit on and blast it off, every 3 weeks or so ill actually use a brush, but it works so well, the moment your brush touches any spot its sparkly clean! i love it, my favourite product by FI and probably in the world