910trx

i hope its not that! i got so much data on there! trying to find a fix fo the error code is useless, all signs point to sticking in a backup disc... i dont have a floppy drive...

well if it is a shagged power supply its the 2nd one i have been through in a year. i also notice that when i turn it on the motherboard lights up a blue led and the graphics cards wind up and slow and another light lights up this repeats 4 times before it beeps and goes into bios and the usual start up procedure this only happens when starting the pc not restarting. the old powersupply is no good to do a test as that sucker is well and truely blown - but can it be that simple - a power supply unit? Might have to ask I.T. for a spare if they have one. windows always gets to the same stage before going down so i'm thinking its os - but i cant get that to work untillthe cd rom works

my hdd is sata i'm now running the original chip of ram in the ddr1 slot (so only 1gb of ram) still wont work rom is setup with sata cable and hooked into power (pins checked they are connected) and still not ejecting or reading the cd rom w just power will still not eject by itself, manual eject and she still wont go in after startup or when pressing in the button the 0x24 or whatever fault code seems to relate to a hdd partition error? is this fixable or is this going to be a take it into a bloke job - i dont want to spend money on the damn thing... will photos of what i got be a help?

thanks for the help guys i'll try the above. sorry i have been interstate for a funeral. before i left i grabbed the hdd out of the pc and stuck it in the carry on luggage i took it to my old mans and i stuck it in his pc tower with just my hdd working. started it up and told me to boot from disc etc restarted with a bsod, rebooted and came up with some windows recovery jargon we chose the option to reinstall windows which we did (he had a win xp disk down there) windows was installed and the hdd worked, all my stuff was on there (luckily) returned home today and plugged it all in straight away the same bsod and restat. i took a vid of the bsod because it flashes so quick wiht a vid camera o see what it was. sorry myt you may have to tone down the pc guru talk, i'm unfortunately very noob at pc hardware. thanks for all the help so far, its great that some people are willing to help out a stranger,

well first problem solved, the hdd has two connections for the data and i plugged it into the wrong one changed the connection and started up fine except cdrom still wont work, its like it has power but wont open up on eject command so i shut it dwn and thought a cold boot by unplugging it may help started her up and started to load windows got a bsod but it flashes so quick i cant read it tried again and reqests safe mode but in any mode including recovery it wont load, i get the same message again and it restarts on its own , requests safe mode and restarts. ive pulled out each stick of ram and have even ran each ram in single channel (1g) to see if faulty ram was causing it but does not work still. worst is i cant tgetht e cd to sork so i can shove in a boot disc i'm over my head on this one...

cool they are in except i started it up and it failed to boot after bios stage saying it needed a boot disc having no boot disc i dl'd a program to act as the startup disc from my fiance's laptop as it asked me to insert the disc into cd/dvd. easy burnt it and tried to wack it into my pc - except the drive wont open... press the button on the front and the green light flashes, then nothing force it open doing the paperclip trick slammed it and still wont read any ideas? can i somehow back it up to a usb drive and force a boot from that?

lol, snow mode should call it "driver panic" mode done this a few times - each time i panic thinking i have desroyed my trans

i had 4 sticks of 1g ram 1 snuffed it had to remove 2 banks and run it in 2g in 2 channels for about a year bought some ram the otherday (2 gig is ok but $70 for 2 chips is not bad to boost performance before i go gaming ram with less latency later on) exact same partnumber but sticks are smaller not as in width but height. i have not booted up the pc as yet only trial fitted, and they fit beautifully its just Kingston Value Ram 800mhz 240 pin 1gig chips like i said partmumbers are EXACTLY the same can i just put this down to better technology - since the release of the originals now we can haveo a ram chip with less circuitboard and has smaller processors on it? 2nd can i hit the power button? - whats the worst that can happen... BOOM! they are the same specs, same brand, same model...

nah adelaide traffic is not too bad outside of peak hour and peak hour is from 700 to 900am and 400 to 700pm otherwise i thought traffic is pretty good i used to drive from holdfast bay to ttg everyday during peak hour, and it took an hour and a half but drive out side of these hours and it takes 45 mins factor in the complete size difference in scale and population to brizzy and yeah you notice the difference but once you get off the M1 from goldie to brisbane and in general traffic, there is no real difference. you just have to find the green light corridoors in adelaide after peak times to find the best route (claims based on north to east adelaide communtng to city on daily basis) as far as cops, there are more undercover cops in standard cars in qld than you think, seen them in ss utes with "construction tools" bolted in the tray, honda accords, and hilux trd's! the other day i saw a ford xr6 turbo ute with a for sale sticker on the back - inside were two officers!

2 door 910 then fit an sr20det or shoehorn an rb20det - one bloke has a vg30 turbz in one and it is just the ducks nuts

my missus got a toshiba satellite from Dick Smiths got vista, wicked display ati graphics (512mb) 2 gig of ram 2 gig of memory large hdd wireless very small fingerprint scanner light as buggery burner doesn't compare to my pc (tower) but can play sim city 4, flatout, battlefield 2 etc on it with limited graphics lag on full. i like pc's more as i hate laptop keyboards, they way they share memory etc, but hers is 6 months old and still pretty good i do not like dell that much, i found custom building one or buying one at retail (with enough searching) came to the same price - dell is a good place to get a start though. Good luck!

i'm wanting to install a decent cat LOL if you get caught by the epa its a mega fine, and i mean MEGA, but considering how many unburnt hydrocarbons my other car freely disperses into the atmosphere, a cat will go a long way to reducing my carbon and environmental footprint on a daily basis.

i miss metal fab - damn career change really satisfying spending 2 days cutting out pieces of metal and weding them into something really massive. the big tip of using is a mig is that the gas coming out helps form the weld, use it to push welds along and and into the join setting the machine is the hard part, once that is right its just like highlighting - some people do the "c" some do constant loops, some do smooth non stop consecutive runs - penetration is the key good luck with the welding, if you are like me you will love it.

Sorry guys i should have clearly specified that i have a series 2 rs4 does all the above advice still apply? i do however thank you for the great responses. To be honest i am not quite sure what mufflers or tip i will be getting. no offence to the locals here (regional queensland) they are not as switched on and enthusiastic as people who i have dealt with in the past from the city where i was originally. as soon as i mention import ot turbo, noses are generally turned up and all desire to "assist" is gone. Hence why i am trying to get the myths sorted out and understand things better b4 forking over cash to someone who is willing to play it by ear and have no real direction. Also Darrin i have PMed you regarding your soon to be disused fujitsbo exhaust ive looked at getting a premade exhaust off the just jap site but compared to what i have been quoted, these are a bit more that what i expected. the jjr dump/front pipe looks the goods though - just to clarify this goes from turbo to the stock cat? more questions sorry Edit: this is the dump i need yeah?

you were driving an import skyline so everyones attention is drawn to the car. so not really singled out - your car does stand out in the traffic more though and you were noticed 2ndly although it may be debated that you still stopped and checked - you didn't do the stupid 3 second thing. so you were targeted because you stand out in the traffic, and you did do the wrong thing = another skyline driver recieving a fine over everyone else. Sux i know - price of owning a flashy car...

I'm after dump pipe - split or bell for a series 2 Cat back 3 inch mandrel Anything in between will be considered. Must be in good condition (no rusty pieces of crap please) Must also be willing to send item(s) to 4680 (Gladstone, Queensland) Must be able to fit a Series 2 Stagea. Pics of current condition are highly desired. Show me what you got!

hoping someone can assist me in clarifying some misconceptions and ideas i have regarding exhausts. I spoke to a local exhaust bloke about getting a new exhaust for my stagea after some discussion we came to the conclusion that if i can get a dump pipe off flea bay, he can build up an exhaust from scratch out of mild 3 inch w/2 mufflers and highflow cat for around $600. So first does this sound ok ? i am after something which is neat and quiet, not loud at all, 2 large mufflers enough to shut it up? now as far as dump pipes go - the understanding is the r33 and stagea are the same/similar. i need to know some feed back against some examples i have extracted to ensure these are ok or not worth putting on, or even what is the best out of the bunch. the exhaust bloke said if you can get stainless go with it because it has better heat handeling properties and less likely to suffer stress from heat. should this mean i look into going for a s/s front pipe as well? examples of dumps i have found are... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SKYLINE-R32-R33-GT-...p3286.m20.l1116 http://cgi.ebay.com.au/RB25-Turbo-Dump-Pip...id=p3286.c0.m14 http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SKYLINE-R32-R33-R34...id=p3286.c0.m14 http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NISSAN-SKYLINE-R34-...id=p3286.c0.m14 this and a better airfilter will be the only engine mods to this engine. car will remain stock otherwise. just need some help guys as i dont want to buy something that will not cut it, be useless or my exhaust bloke will cringe at seeing it. Furthermore are r33 full systems similar to the r33 and is it is worth going a full r33 route and get him to knock it on? or it is a case of yes its possible but not worth doing. search has helped me a lot but just looking at clarification to what people have done and possibly some input on an exhaust guru if there is one about. the more you search the more opinions you find Cheers Daniel

i get scared everytime the missus drives the stagea, she leans forward and makes car noises while accelerating, parks way too close to other cars, dosnt ride boost properly and drives with random stabs of the loud pedal, leaving the auto confused about which damn gear to be in... very scary indeed thats why i got comp insurance...

i have a stagea with tip tronic on wheel and the detents to shift with the leaver (+ or -). i always owned a manual car with heavy clutches and the like (still do). but i got the s2 over the s1 stagea because of the shifting options and because the fiance only drives an auto personally i find the wheel buttons to be useless and there is a delay in the shift. i prefer using the actual selector in the console especially on twisty roads - i guess it goes back to prefering manuals on a hills run where you ride the boost and drive 80% (which is still damn fast) it is nice to just flick the leaver to change gears and not do accidental shift to 1st or "n" like in average autos which leave you fumbeling half way through a corner trying to look at the leaver and determine wft you just did - although you can still do the 2, 3, D, if you wish if you wanted to push it and involve yourself in the driving experience then manual is definately the way to go. but sometimes this is just not practical for everyday use, just those select t1mes you drive 100% which realistically should only be on a track... saving that, having an auto is handy - just put your foot down and the car will figure it out, long drives or heavy traffic are no fuss, car can be driven by anyone - i usually just leave it in "d" for drag racing mode and i find it doesn't matter i love manuals and prefer them to a sloshamatic anyday, but the tip tronic is a good halfway point. also i think the s2 manuals come with a guage cluster in the centre console but most auto's dont, because you need an rs4v or something, the standard rs4 comes in auto only. not having a oil pressure guage and boost guage sux and aftermarket ones tend to look a bit tacky. best to put your bum in the seat and try yourself.

the flight simulation extension to google earth LOL

i'm in a semi rural area and limited to an adsl 1 connection i'm with aapt - they supplied me with a modem which is not limited to just aapt (like optus and telstra do) and includes phone line rental and 15gb dl per month for $90. no upload caps and once i reach the dl limit is slows from 1600kps to 70kps so still useable if you need the net. never had a drop out or been disonnected the modem i have is hooked up to my pc by ethernet and the missus uses her laptop wireless straight from the modem. have no contract either - just a once off connection fee and on my way. Very decent people to deal with too. service is a big thing for me, and the fact they send me sms updates on useage and when a bill is ready to be paid, it is worth the extra $$$ mind you i can get a 50gb limit for the same $$ if i lived in an adsl 2 area - just 600km too far... I am very happy and recommend them - i have used "never heard of them isp's" who have poor pings or cant support their subscribers in peak times, connections drop and slow down - yeah you get 500gb of dl's but only from 1am to 9am and you cant leave it running because it will drop and sit at idle with no connection till you wake up, realising you wasted 8 hours where nothing downloaded. like i said reliability and service means alot for piece of mind.

has hks sticker on the back - umbrella on the bonnet looks in good condition i think it has had an axe taken to it by the looks of the rear guards

used to race at ttg some many years ago when i got my first car i blew a front tyre and hung the mongoose up in the shed to fix later it has been hanging for about 8 years with a bare front rim... i prefer racing than jumping tried a bit of ansteys hill fire track riding back then too, averaged 40kmph in some spots with only 20 inch rims and no suspension you hit the water correction kerbs at those speeds with a 20% down slope and you literally float 50cm off the ground for 5 metres

twin sunroofs are mad but the self latching rear tailgate is its party trick. nothing better than getting a carton at the drive through and telling tha attendent to "shove it in the boot, but dont slam it please" then they close gently it and magically sucks itself in and they freak out. they look at you in stunned amazement and you just knod with a slight smirk with a look on your face saying, "yeah its cool, no matter how many times i do it its still cool, and you wish you were like me because i am the king of coolness with my tailgate" you have all done it.... admit it!

Octane is a rating given to the fuel's knock resistence, not its ability like many believe to combust differently in a standard car which is built to run on 91 octane there will be no difference as the motor will not make any use of the octane unless you up compression or advance timing. why you engine feels better and you get more mileage out of it is down to the fact it is more refined and their is less other crap in it response is due to the additional timing it can run for more modern cars or those tuned and built for use with pulp or >95 octane, ecu's take advantage of this knock resistence and often automatically wind in more timing, or in many cases just dont retard it. this extra few degrees in timing often leads to greater fuel consumption. the brand of fuel and where you get it from does play a huge role in how your car reacts as there may be moisture or foreign chemicals within the fuel which your car doesn't like. big servos with a high turn over are often the best to grab fuel from, the fuel is often "fresher" and there has been less time for foreign content contamination with it sitting. just some more useless shit i have stashed away in my brain looking for a place to vent.