mr skidz

Correct

Lol

I too run a haltech platinum pro its the tits, but that doesn't make other ecu's crap thats all im sayin.

You don't HAVE to buy additional sensors but those who run a Haltech run a HALTECH for FLEX reasons.flex tunes want boost and ethanol, so you'll need the content sensor and the 3 bar map sensor which is exactly what you just mentioned. Add them to the price as well. temperature and pressure sensors & O2 wideband kit is also more again if you want to use haltechs wonderful features you'll need all of the senses to read them obviously just stating it doesn't stop at $2100 to fully utilise it's features.

Which explains why you like them but on straight petrol they are gay as aids. No hard feelings i just call the spaid a spaid.

Yeah yeah let's not mislead people once again. you're probably talking about E85 only then which I would then believe you. because the compressed natural gas injectors do actually atomize really well and you're using a whole lot more Duty cycle being that you are on E85. I said before PETROL it will not work and they will not work on PETROL and the graph shows that, which is what you do. you told me you never run on petrol which is why you don't know the difference.

Here's your ID 2000s! very non linear fuel delivery curve under 1.5 milliseconds which is why ID recommend the 1300cc

Not on petrol

I bought my power fc for $400 with controller vs haltech $2100 new without additional additional sensors. Flex is the ONLY reason i went haltech

I didn't mention value.

I know.plenty did tho.

I'll have a set of sard injectors running with a power fc better than most people could probably tune IDs with a Haltech. Talk is cheap. If the tuner actually gives a f*k and takes his time it doesn't matter what ecu you use.

So much garbage on here once again with people putting shit on the power fc! If anyone had a bad experience with a power fc it's because there tuner is SHIT. It's an ECU it does what it's told

What made you go 67mm front?

Both in excellent cond $150

Did you find boost pressure and manifold pressure to equalize at 28psi? Were they N1 or std ported ones? My manifold is threaded and I'll be measuring the difference at some stage.

What do you mean the tail end isn't restrictive?You mean exhaust housing? And what do you mean boost vs back pressure is garbage back pressure where in your turbine or in your exhaust? Have you measured it? We all really need to be more specific including myself with our typing as everything will be taken out of context and waste probably 10 pages of this thread and half our lives trying to clear things up[emoji85]

we do know they work well up to 550 600 whp thats all that matters. Amazingly the front wheel and the rear wheel run out of steam at the same Point which makes it a nicely balanced turbo but it has limits. Like anything

No shortage of jack holes on here.

That's rich coming from you just try reading a post a little slower next time before you shoot off on a thread talking shit

Show me where i mentioned "TURBO LAG" im pretty sure my words were "laggy pig" lag can also be used as reference to a laggy / slow revving engine that has a restricted exhaust especially on boost.

I am now [emoji19]

*wow your good *im not sure anyone is capable of helping you Goodluck.

Thats cute.

Its actually 100% correct!Which part are you struggling with?