PhilKenSebben

Sweet thanks for the info nismoid. I'm not interested in the colour or a name written on it, I just tend to think the larger names sell better gear. Sometimes this is true, sometimes not. I just try to apply the old adage 'you get what you pay for', and it's difficult to know when to buy the cheaper stuff, and I like to do my research. Let other people do it first, and learn from that. Dirtgarage has given me a good price on OS Giken gears so we'll see.

A larger IC will INCREASE lag. What is currently on your car? Running 250rwkw I think you've proven what is on there is handling it, provided you have a CPU to prove all is well. And I just read another thread where you express interest in a megasonic BOV. Don't do it. Just don't

depends greatly on your scope of modifications. I'm guessing you're just starting and think an intercooler is one of the first steps? I disagree but if you want one that performs better than stock then go for a standard r34 SMIC. They're relatively inexpensive, common, and will handle around 200rwkw, without being 'bling bling' or chopping up your front end. The large front mounts are more suited to 400-500hp apps. But they are also fairly cheap, even for name brand ones, so you decide. But don't buy Chinese ebay shite. Blitz are good cores, and straight fit. I have a large Greddy front mount but I know better now and probably wouldn't do it again if I had the chance, it was just such a good price! Search the forums. They are full of wise people who'll share their victories, and very un-wise people who'll share their horror stories. Both are helpful in their own way

I have looked at these flyn sets but passed them off. Should I look more at the materials used than branding? Duralium sounds too flash to pass up! If I find an unobtainium pair I'll look into it I've just heard about manufacturing faults in cheap ones and I consider timing to be a little too important to simply hope for the best. Then again I've also read about name brand gears that chip/fracture, and that would have seemed unlikely to me, so I just want some opinions given that I have never used any, and don't want to be giving someone else the 'why I would never use anything but the best' speech to another noob

Shall do mate, unfortunately I live in Cairns and there ain't squat up here. But you think decent no-namers are fine?

Enclose a decent pod ($100 is ludicrous!) and cold air intake it or piss it off right now. Some noise suppression inside the box will get rid of that sucking noise on boost. A full turbo back exhaust will be your best bang for buck right now and accomodate some later mods. The stock r34 SMIC is a good unit so leave it till later. Unfortunately the next thing is a CPU upgrade, and you get what you pay for, so no cheap shite here. This'll keep you happy for a while, although personally I would work on the handling package before power, it'll be more fun. That said, most noobs (myself included) first up the power (it's so easy!!) THEN realise that handling would be best, so heed these words, unless you just wanna race twits at lights in which case be warned, there's a LOT of cars that'll be faster.

Thanks but as I said, I did read all the tutorials I could find and they are very helpful, I'm just a technical info whore and I would like to know why Nissan would add pointless hoses. They MUST have a purpose. Nissan aren't exactly noobs when it comes to engine design, and sorry for all those that are offended by this, but 99% of us DO NOT know better than Nissan about their products, despite what I read.

I'm soon to install a PFC in my s1 r33 gtst and want to do the timing belt and cam gears at the same time. I found the belt for a good price but Tomei gears I can only find for $500 for the pair. There is a group buy going on for no-name gears but I really would prefer name brand if I can get a better price, and I think many of you would agree. I've done a fair bit of searching but does anyone know of a better than $500 price? It doesn't have to be Tomei but I have read some stories about other name-branders that have 'issues'. Am I being pedantic and the no-namers are fine? I'll settle for just the exhaust side for now if I have to but I have to think that buying them as a pair will net me a better buying price. Any info would be great, from businesses or individuals. Thanks

No ideas?

This is one of the very few threads I read from start to finish. Take some solace in the fact that something you created is making so many people happy. Happy they didn't go in on the group buy Happy they spent an hour finding out that even reputable companies can't always be trusted Happy to see jokes dawning through the times of hardship. (The "SHAFT!", "damn right" posts had me in stitches) I urge anyone who reads this post to send an email to ACPT and mention that you read all this, and that they should too. Strength in numbers people. Let them know what the true cost of screwing over a few Aussies has done for their company's name. At the very least, it'll get some dodgy employees out of their system. Andrew, your intentions were good from the outset, and everyone understands. But sometimes if a deal seems to good to be true, it probably is. Moral of this story, NEVER TRUST THE YANKS!

I'm interested. The 040 is in tank and is the same price as an 044 which can be used in tank as well?? What sort of flow rate does the standard OEM item have? Is there any reason I shouldn't just get an 044 and put it in the original tank position or are there headaches involved as opposed to the straight fit 040? Any help appreciated, let me know payment details when I have these answers. Cheers

Yeah but aluminium transfers a lot of heat, so it's not really best. I used aluminium for mine because I had some lying around, and it does look good. Unfortunately, ponies before chromies, and with a simple thermometer setup I discovered I want to scrap it and custom make one from fibreglass. A good cold air intake would probably fix it but I have issues with cutting my bonnet, as it'll look ricey, despite having real purpose. Cold air from down low to the road would be a lot hotter.

I've recently bought the $22 magical Turbotech boost controller. I've read the tutorial (very helpful with the pics, cheers) but I want to know a few things. Firstly, the top hose to the standard valve. Disconnect this and plug it with a bolt? This connects to the same return pipe as the BOV, so why is it there? Does the standard valve take two input signals? If so, why not splice two signals into the new one? If that's not correct, why is it there? Did Nissan really add it for NO REASON? Secondly, what is the electrical connector on the standard valve? Is this simply for the CPU to know all? I have a Power FC if this negates the need for it? Just seems odd given it looks like only two wires. Lastly, my Greddy FMIC kit specifically illustrated the need to connect to the 'T' piece in front of the control valve from the front of the inlet plenum, so I did. I've had no problems in a good 2 years of running this setup, however I read a thread saying to tap a nipple into the return pipe BEFORE the throttle body. I checked my old piping and sure enough, the nipple is in that very position. So assuming that Nissan know their product a little better than Greddy does, I bought a nipple and tapped it into the same place. What are the real ramifications of the previous setup? It seems to have made no difference, so I wonder why Greddy decided on this plenum positioning? Or was it just cheaper and easier than putting the fitting in on their piping? Appreciate any help you guys can give me, but please, plain english. I'm not quite Luckieee level but some of the more techy lingo does go over my head.

Yes I agree! Working on my car is something I love doing, and most people on this forum are here because they are also enthusiasts who love to do the same. But when you are talking Porsche, Mercedes, Audi etc you are talking about people with money. Case in point, I would not buy a t-shirt made by kids in China for 2 cents, then sold for $50 because it had a brand name on it, but the industry thrives! Surf brands bought by people who've never surfed, motocross brands by people who've never owned a dirtbike. Performance cars bought by people who put fuel in it and do nothing more, who get a flat tyre and call RACQ. If they've got dollars but no sense, there will always be someone to exploit that.

Sorry mate my comments are 'I've been told' so really I know jack as do most of us who only dream of owning an R35. I do service my 33 myself but you have to understand that an awful lot of wealthy people will buy these cars and not have a clue how to change their oil, or simply be too wealthy to bother. I guarantee there are also people who work on their porsches as well but statistically I think you'll find it's rare. Disagree all you want though, forums are the best way to tell the rest of the world that they're idiots

Long story short, China simply does not use particularly good metals/alloys. They use cheap stuff. Chinese made dirtbikes for $500? sweet! Performance brakes for my high performance Japanese car? Not cool. Quality will improve over time but for now I simply would NOT put trust in cheap brakes. They really are quite important, despite Luckieee's objections.

Of course it'll be expensive. It's a pretty hi-tech bit of kit. I'm told the gearbox takes 10 litres of oil at $100 a litre. $1000 without labour. But if I had the money, I'd still want the car. Tell EVERYONE upfront about the servicing costs and be stunned as they sell like hotcakes regardless. The more profit Nissan makes from the wealthy, the quicker the technology trickles down into all of their cars, and then the servicing costs will fall too. Come to think of it the sooner people are horrified by the costs the sooner R35's begin dropping in price second hand. And I want one. Eventually.....

Back to topic, yes tell them about mods. It may cost more. Insurance companies make huge money despite often covering twits. It's as simple as discovering during assessment that your car is not roadworthy, and believe me insurance companies will do ANYTHING in their power to keep from having to pay you regardless of how much money you have given them over the years. First test? Light gauge on your tint. Darker than 35%? NO money for you! Those wheels the correct sizing? No money for you! You drove between 2pm and 3pm in a suburb that begins with 'H' on a Tuesday to see your girlfriend and she isn't blonde? No money for you. Look sometimes assessors are lazy or just don't care and will pay out regardless, hooray for you, stranger things have happened. But look at this forum. EVERYONE here is modding their car. Very few do it legally. There are risks. Period. Drive safely and watch out for dicks who don't. It's cheap insurance.

I use nothing but ubuntu. I never really HATED windows but my brother is more nerdy and convinced me this is a million times better. I've had no complaints. It's just as user friendly as windows and I know nothing about computers. He loves free programs, millions of program options, the fact that you can stuff with EVERYTHING if you feel inclined. Especially the setup "MASTER OF THE KNOWN UNIVERSE" which allows you to kill the computer if you get it wrong but make it brilliant if you do things well. Like a power fc. Oh and I did try Vista and I did hate it (last one I had used was xp which was ok) And by god is windows and it's related program EXPENSIVE these days! Really annoys you when Linux does it all for free. FREE!

By the way I'll take the driver's side wing mirror off your hands if it works perfectly (if my ebay one gets too pricey). Also i've watched those 'gt' badges on the side go off to some twit who thought $65 PLUS postage was a good buy.

You don't have tools? Honestly if you spend some time on ebay you'll make a killing selling parts. Pulling things apart is easy, it's putting it back together that's more complicated, and you don't have to do that! I see a good intercooler, doors, glass, full interior, mirrors, headlight, wheels and tyres, side skirts, spoiler, bootlid, tail light, panels, the list goes on. Shit man do you know how many people like a good genuine steering wheel? (Assuming you have one). Find out what the wrecker will pay you. Someone on here in the Melbourne area will probably beat their price if you really can't be bothered. I would though. I had a mate that wanted to sell his old commodore. Got offered bugger all. Sold it in bits and made his asking price then took the rest to a wrecker who gave him 2 cartons of beer for the rest. But he had to do ther ebay legwork.

Because taping them up is dodgy. Aside from the fact that the rear quarters are encapsulated and touch the paint, hence you will always be able the see the edge line, you will find that if there is any place you'll get rust in your car, it's behind the window moulds. Water can get in there, but takes a long time to dry out, and why paint your whole car if you don't even know if rust will start coming through in 6 months time. Do it once and do it right. Unless you genuinely don't have the money, in which case a cheap re-spray is a long way off the best way to spend what little you have.

Between $550 and $600 is about what you'll get the two quarters and rear removed and refit, plus the front windscreen supplied and fitted for, not including genuine nissan mouldings, if you want them. As mentioned though, glass is glass, hence we NEVER guarantee it'll come out without breaking, and you'll be up for a lot more. That said, I've removed somewhere in the thousands of glasses and only broken 4, so professionals definately have much better odds than a home job.

Received mine today thanks wolverine

That is POSSIBLE, as they do weld in side intrusion bars to comply in Aus. I have heard of bad welders really warping the doors as they do this job, so it could introduce new flex, however it seems extremely unlikely as a LOT of ppl seem to have the identical problem, several scratches right up the centre. Maybe they rarely wind their windows down in Japan? Maybe the smog is a lot worse than the air-con? Maybe I'm just taking random guesses with no real logic or knowledge? Yeah, it could be that one...