Jarsky

Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test. ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating.

If you mean the alarm immobiliser; theyre internal to the alarm itself which makes that difficult; I couldnt even see where he put it; its not in the same place as last time; but with all black wiring it might be very challenging to trace I had someone turn the key for me as I know it only primes for a couple of seconds As my post above; I am getting no voltage to the pump at all; but I am testing continuity of the power line (SB) from the pump plug to the relay fine. As well as the negative from the pump plug to a 12V constant. Yeah; he blammed the no start on a bad battery; said I needed to get a new battery and it'll start. Turns out the battery drained because the tail lights had been on for half the day during the install (the rubber cushion on the brake switch gave out while he was testing it as I have a picture of the car from that morning with the tail lights off..i've replaced that). The battery was turning over the engine just fine for a long time; but got low since lights were draining it so it was too low to test a start after he finished. I bought a new one on his advice...$250 wasted. My original battery charged up just fine and is healthy. It was running perfectly fine when I messed up the old alarm (programmed out the remotes). He couldnt start it after removing the old alarm; my assumption is that when he unhooked it; he didnt bridge the circuit back when trying to start it. Its always been perfectly fine. The ECU swap and pump were 2 years ago. It's never missed a beat in that time.

I was using the wiring diagram I have So 12.74V is coming into the rear Fuel Pump relay as I measured. When I turn the key to ON im getting 0.6V to the Fuel Pump plug; which i assume is backfeed voltage and doesnt include the 12V from ignition power. The rear relay is working and being triggered. From the diagram I clearly see the rear relay 80 = Rear Relay going into the Body/H loom (R-27) 27 = Fuel Pump plug going into the Body/H loom (T-20) 40 = Short Connector (R-27) I'm reading 12.74V on the blue/black wire which is the power for the Fuel Pump From this diagram I can see the Ignition relay goes into the front and up to the ignition 2 = Fuel Pump Relay <1M> (R-27) 37 = ING Relay <1M> I started from the pump using this reference Which the way I read it (referencing Nissan wiring color codes) is: Pin Wire Color Function 1 B/P (Black/Pink) Ground 2 L/W (Blue/White) ECU Trigger 3 SB (Sky Blue) Fuel Pump 5 L/B (Blue/Black) 12V Constant Tested SB to SB on Fuel Pump for continuity - confirmed Tested negative on Fuel Pump to 12V battery and L/B - confirmed 12V Pulled the relay putting 12V between Pin 1 & 2 and testing continuity on Pin 3 & 4 - confirmed relay So that has me looking at this part of the circuit to understand whats happening here...and im still confused. From best I can tell; the disconnect is back to my previous diagram; between Ignition Relay and Fuel Pump Relay...which yet again; afaik is where the immobiliser should. Thats what I was trying to explain to GTSboy; im not trying to fix it myself; yet I seem to have to get a Masters in Electrical Engineering (while im busy doing my actual job of DevOps & Cloud Engineering) somehow. I just wanted more expert opinions; or more so that what I tested is correct and proves it to something around that area; to go back to the alarm tech (for a 3rd time) that he needs to fix it. He keeps telling me its not the alarm. He lives on the complete other side of the city so i understand not wanting to make a trip but as I said before if its the alarm it should be up to him to fix it. But he's adament its not; even though I pointed out the FP was immobilised through the original alarm. To my mind; it seems that the ECU is sending the signal; but the ignition is not getting 12V down the line.

Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work. Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed

I can say to anyone thats doing this; having done a number of R clusters; just be careful if its an unknown cluster. It takes a bit of force to pull up; but if it feels excessive then its probably stuck. I've had this and pulled the entire hair spring out; and I can tell you; its not easy getting the correct spring replacement with the correct inner diameter and winding. In my case someone had used some sort of adhesive to stick it to the spindle and it pulled the whole spindle out; which the force seperated the hairspring from the spindal and caused it to deform. You may have to clean it (IPA); or in my case if i'd known i should have used some sort of solvent on it. Also check out Cruizin Central on eBay. He does all sorts of dials; and you can email him with any custom designs you want. So if you want like certain logos etc...he'll send you a mock of what it will look like then you accept the order and he'll take care of the rest. Fantastic dials and he can do basically any design you want.

Have you confirmed its the actual axles? Also the wheel bearings that mount on the hubs to hold the axles wear out. I replaced mine as they got play in them. It sorted my play issue.

Ive converted a few clusters for the R33 with 320km/h dials. On the back there are some pads which can be bridged or unbridged (using solder or wick braid) to calibrate it. There is one bridge which is for MPH <> KPH; and there are combinations of bridges to offset it. There is probably a diagram For example; this is my conversion for a 180km/h dial to a 320km/h dial (I put custom GT-R dials on it with the GTS25t layout) If you have J2 soldered (assuming the S clusters have a similar config to the R clusters); you may need to remove that solder

This. A 3d wheel alignment is like $120...just take it to the shop. Since theres probably multiple adjustments that need to be made after changing something. Mine has front/rear lower arms, traction rods, tension rods, camber arms, toe arms, front upper arms, hicas kit, sway bars and coilovers. I measure from the edge of the bolt holes on the originals and set the same length on all the adjustable stuff to dial it as close as I could to OEM. Took it straight for alignment; it didnt feel right at all...after alignment, it feels perfect. Similarly i've just changed the springs on another car; and I still needed multiple adjustments to bring it back in spec.

Its a well known brand in New Zealand; its a rebrand of the Rhino RAV3. I don't know what the wiring difference *is* between the rev.1 (installed about 15 years ago) and rev.2; but as you say I would think its reasonable that it uses the same immobiliser relay circuits. I had a look but couldnt see a similar harness; but didnt move things around since I didnt want to mess with it It was one of AVS well known Authorised Installers; I spoke to AVS themselves about it but theyre unsure hence seeking advice more so from the skyline community who are more familiar with the actual car and its wiring. Im in Auckland; but the installer is on the other side of the city so hes very reluctant to come back to even look at it to confirm something isnt connected into the wrong wire. I dont want to drop the name since they *did* do a really good job for the most part. Everything is very tidy and he fully replaced all the alarm wiring, all the sensors, the wiring to the door motors, installed a switch which was never installed in the first place...really happy with the alarm install itself..just not this one issue. We all make mistakes, if it is the alarm, I just want my fuel pump getting proper switched, fused, power as it was; without having to shell out for an auto electrician to switch a wire and tell me it was the alarm.

Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation. Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it. I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start. The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead. Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on. Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm). On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit? I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error. Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm. He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine. Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug. Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)? Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense. Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it.

This thread taught me a lot. I've been trying to find a hitch for my 350GT Sedan that I can carry my Ninja on the back but it has a weight of ~400lb (~500lb including the carrier); but I learnt that theres a thing called Tongue Weight (TW) which is downward force. This kind of setup tops out at 200lb (132lb / 60kg rated). Doesnt seem theres any setup thats readily available that bolts into the frame (I guess theres really no easy access to it) to be able to support a higher TW. This setup is considered a 'class 1' hitch, and while it has a ~2000lb Gross Trailer Weight (GTW), i'd need a 'class 3' hitch (up to 750lb TW) to carry a bike aka..it needs to bolt into the frame at multiple points. So unless I can get a custom one for a decent price (these are already like $600..i imagine a custom one fitted will be like $2k....1/4-1/5 the price of the whole car) then looks like i'd need a bike trailer (don't really want to be towing a trailer), or to switch cars for my daily unfortunately. The 350GT is a very thirsty car so maybe its not such a bad idea to look at selling as cool as it is....

I wasted so much money on the Frenchy's Performance Garage tool. I'm sure it's great if your balljoints are in good condition, but I ended up stripping the coupler nut, and bending the threads on the balljoint trying to use their removal tool. I basically ended up doing the exact same thing as this guide to remove mine, and they came out like butter. I used a torch to heat the knuckle up for around 60 seconds, and I used my 36mm axle nut socket as the retainer. I then used a thick washer on the back first, before putting a 14mm socket on the back to push it the rest of the way. This process took about 15-20 minutes per side, compared to the hours I spent trying different methods. Using the 36mm socket it has the dpeth that you don't need to grind the end of the balljoint off either.

My GTS-T was in storage for most of about 8 years, with some fuel in the tank. When the fuel gauge gets down to about 1/3 it just drops to E so after getting it running good again, and running some cleaner through the tank I decided to pull the fuel sender out to give it a clean....the thing is impossible to get off the bracket! I have no idea how ya'll managed to pry it off the bracket, I tried getting it off for more than 2 hours It's to tense to push down with fingers, and seems impossible to get a screwdriver in there to push the tab down, and fit a hand in there to slide the bracket at the same time

Hey guys, Hoping someone here has experience with Greddy Type-RS bov fitting. A bit of a silly question....but I recently bought this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/400236068871?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_2739wt_1163 to replace my stupidly oversized and loud Tiel bov. It uses the same adaptor and is the same size as the Greddy Type-RS as I've seen here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/333955-nissan-skyline-r33-r34-rb25det-greddy-type-rzrss-bov-adaptor/ Both say its 'simple' bolt on - which yeah it is, but im having trouble recirculating it. When I fit the adapter & Bov, it's either facing straight up, or straight down - with the recirc pipe, of course being down the side. The only thing I can think of is some sort of 90degree bend silicon hose to the recirculation pipe?

thats easy enough advice, but ive been searching for new outer tie rod ends for my R33 for some time, still no luck. from Nissan NZ they said NZ$200 per side ($400 wtf?!?!?!) so I've been trying to find aftermarket, with no luck what so ever. isnt really easy to just take them out and take them around the shops either given that half the hub assembly has to come apart to pop them out if i do have to end up spending that ridiculous amount of $$$ to nissan for such parts, im thinking of looking at the driftworks eliminator kit which isnt much more.

only just got the car home last night (towed it home myself after 2 tow trucks did a no show) decided to put it in diagnostic mode, unfortunately returned code 55 telling me everything is fine next step....check the fuel pump & spark

thanks Craig - will try that when I get the car home (decided to get it towed home from work), someone else also suggested I try that to check the fuel pump is working. and yeah - the engine is 'shaking' when I turn the key and starter is spinning quite hard (starter is only about 4 months old) making a 'RARARARARARA!!!' noise, so from what I can tell the starter motor is cranking the engine - but seems to be either a lack of fuel or a lack of spark. im leaning towards fuel as I can't hear the fuel pump priming - so i think that will be my first place to check

wouldn't run anything over 12PSI max on standard turbo - you'll shatter the turbine at more than that, then you'll be asking yourself 'was the extra 1PSI worth it?'

d1rtyrb - car modification laws vary state to state in AUS, but are generally much stricter than what we have in NZ. in NZ you can certify practically any modification, as long as its safe (certified) and meets emission standards. In AUS, all modifications need to be ceritifed by an engineer, and you are limited in same ways to what you can actually do (e.g power/weight restrictions, noise restrictions, etc...) - it's just a No, period. Also correct about the wof thing, things work differently in AUS - but in AUS it costs a LOT more to have a car on the road as it does in NZ. Make sure if you are going to modify a car in AUS that you consult with an engineer as you go along, that is the easiest way - and will avoid some majorly hefty fines (penalty's for illegally modified cars are much higher in aus than nz) and remember if you're unsure if its legal or not, it probably isnt

what about turbo'ing your XR8? they can put out some decent power with a forced induction upgrade have to say as far as R34's go, would have to be one of the best automatic transmission cars i've ever driven - you can feel the power right there, the transmissions dont feel all sloppy like most other cars, and the power converter seems to deliver quite a smooth change. fuel economy wise, i can do probably just under 500km to a tank on open road driving - no idea around town as i tend to have a bit of a heavy foot around town mines also needs the O2 sensor replaced and is up around 160k, so probably isn't running as economical as it could be. I do find though (most likely because of the diff) the final drive ratio is a little bit high for cruising @ 100k - the rpm sits a bit high for long distance driving, makes it easy for overtaking - but can be a little annoying cruising at such a high rpm. 2 of my mates also have r33 gts25t's so I know it definately isn't my car, it's just how they are.

Hey Guys, I've never had a problem with my latest skyline....until today I drove it to work this morning just fine, try to go out and get some lunch and now it just wont start. The starter is going nice and strong so it definately isn't an issue there or with the battery - but I can't hear it trying to turn at all. I've checked the fuel pump fuse which is good and checked the lines aren't leaking or anything - all the fuel lines look good. Is it most likely going to be the fuel pump has died? Could it be an electrical problem as well? any help appreciated - currently stuck at work

Last year I removed the HICAS setup from my S2 R33. I've since tried to get my new warrant to have it on the road but was failed due to 'excessive play' from the rear tie rods. After jacking up the car and giving the wheels a wiggle left to right I can see that there is play in the tie rod. How can I fix this? Does it just need new tierod ends? Do I need to replace the entire tie rod? or is there something I can do to the existing ones to fix this? Never really played around with this stuff before so any answers would be great. Also how hard is it to replace these? Have most of the basic tools

Hey Guys, Just wondering if anyone knows the Nissan Part number for the rain guard that runs across the top of the drivers side window? R33 GTS25t Coupe. Also does anyone know how much these cost? mine snapped off driving down the highway from a small crack