Hanaldo

Link to ad dude, WCC is down so I can't get to it. From memory it all seemed like things you could get engineered, so not really a big deal. But a link to the ad would help.

Yes different type of sensor. Narrow band sensors use a very non-linear output, so just uses the outputs of lean (100-200mV) and rich (650-800mV) and has nothing inbetween, so when it calculates the air/fuel ratio it does not have a very broad range and hence will change very steeply. This type of sensor is also temperature dependant, so will change depending on if the engine is warm or cold. So the gauge will tell you that the mixture is stoich and fine, when in actual fact it is bordering on lean and then if something goes wrong your engine will lean out and detonate before the gauge even registers that something is wrong. Wideband sensors on the other hand have a very linear output of 0-5V, and are not temperature dependant. So they will give a very accurate reading of what your a/f ratios actually are and will warn you well before your engine reaches a dangerous a/f ratio.

I've changed a life. My job here is done So when cruising you would be driving on vacuum not boost yes? On boost you would be accelerating. Does it hunt at idle, like rev up and down? And is it more pronounced when the car is warm or is it exactly the same when it's cold? Sort of sounds like it could be a problem my mates R32 had, was effectively a vacuum leak. The air regulator was stuck open, so when the car was cold it ran fine but when it warmed up the air regulator was still open and the car was getting too much air. Ran fine when you were accelerating, but trying to cruise it would just stutter and jump, etc. Could also be a problem caused by that atmo bov you have.

Yes!! Has your car been tuned or is it stock ecu? Does it happen while cruising/decel or on acceleration?

RB25DE Neo and RB25DET Neo coilpacks are exactly the same, I'm not sure about the RB20DE Neo.

You would need to get it tuned for that boost anyway, just get your tuner to do it?

Point being? ^ These have a 12 month warranty, the idea of that is that if it breaks within 12 months you can get it replaced. Yours broke within two weeks, so you still had a little bit of time before the warranty expired.

I don't have mine heat wrapped, to be honest I didn't notice much of an increase in heat. You can see the pipe is really hot, but I think while you're driving the air blows a lot of that heat away, it doesn't do much to the under bonnet temps.

Yeh you'll be fine dude, cops really pay no attention to them what-so-ever. If you do get stickered and the pits don't like them, it's literally a 5 minute job to pull them out and put the standard globes back in.

Yeh that's what I did mate, the 1v is missing in the positive lines. I've connected a number of 8 gauge wires to different points on the chassis, it does seem to be making a difference. Before the voltage was sitting at about 12.3 with the car off, now it sits at about 12.8. Also charges at 14.2 consistently now instead of being around 13.6-14.4 Will see if it fixes the problems

Lol I know, I understand electrics pretty well. My earth cable is not very quality at all, it is slightly greened which looks like it will be causing resistance. I'm missing 1v between my alternator and my battery, the alternator reads around 14.3v when the engine is one, but the charge going into the battery is only about 13.2v. But this is on the positive terminal, the negative seems ok. This is why I suspect it is a dodgy earth, the earth cable does not look too healthy at all. How good an idea would it be to get some 8 gauge wires and connect them to multiple chassis points? Or should I use 4 gauge wire?

I've tried using Datascan to monitor the voltage, thing is it doesn't happen very often while driving, it's very unpredictable. The main problem is on start up. The fuel pump is still stock so I imagine it would still be stock wiring.

Hey guys, I'm having a few electrical problems with my car which at this stage are more of an annoyance than a problem, I just don't want it to get any worse. There are two possibilities in my mind that could be causing it, a dodgy earth or a dodgy battery. I have recently done an engine swap on my car, and the problem was there before and it is still there now. I've had the battery tested multiple times and it shows up fine every time. What's happening is often when I turn the car to accessories to prime the fuel pump (still standard GTT fuel pump, Walbro 550 going in next week), the dash lights will be very very dim and flicker a bit, my volt gauge (aftermarket) will show anywhere from 7v to 10v, etc. When I try to start the car it eventually starts ok every time, but it struggles a bit. Sometimes everything is fine and it will start pretty much instantly, the dash lights will be bright as all hell, the volt gauge will read ~11.5-12.5, etc. Another thing that often happens is when I change gears or clutch in, the sound system will die. I haven't got a huge system either. It will come back on straight away, but it pretty much just resets. Often when this happens one of my headlights will go out as well, comes back on if I flick them off and back on again. I had suspected alternator before the engine swap, but seeing as I have changed the alternator with the new engine and the problem is still there I sort of ruled that out. What could this be? Also sorry if this is in the wrong section, it struck me as a general maintenance type problem... Cheers guys, Martin.

Yeh but my car passed over the pits with them ^ I guess I do stand corrected. Goes to show how much our WAPOL really know about these things.

I have 6000k low beams, my high beams are 12000k

Not in WA. So many incorrect rumors about this. I actually emailed the WAPOL to ask them about this (can probably find the reply email I got from them if need be), and they said it is not actually illegal it is just recommended that you have projectors, self levelers and the washer sprayer. You do not need them for HID's to be legal, at least not in WA. Sure enough I got yellow stickered shortly after installing them (not for the HID's, for something completely unrelated), and the inspector at the pits checked them out but said they were legal and they passed straight over.

Also just a heads up for anyone with a non-turbo R34 that has fitted R33 GTST calipers, you want the kit for the R33, not the kit for the R34 GTT. Seems pretty straight forward but I was confused about this for months so thought I'd mention it

Well what's the difference between ceramic turbines and steel turbines? What happens to a ceramic turbine when you boost too high and create too much heat? What's the solution? Steel turbine. So what do you think the difference will be when it comes to ceramic and metal catalytic converters?

Dammit Ok well I'll bleed them again then. It definitely feels different, but it's much harder than usual, not softer like I would expect if there was air in the lines.

True, but any decent workshop will identify a poorly prepared body and notify you of it. It would be a poor workshop that just accepts a car and starts spraying without checking it out first. Fixing scratches is easy, use spray on filler primer. This will fill the scratches and obviously does not need to be primed again.

This.

Installed mine tonight, very easy install. Just a couple of questions though as now I'm not sure how the pedal is meant to feel. Is it meant to be quite hard? How responsive is the braking? Just asking because I took it for a quick drive (it's raining so couldn't test them out too thoroughly) and it sort of feels like when I'm full on the brakes it isn't stopping very fast. But I'm not sure if that is because the braided lines make it feel like I'm at the end of the pedal when I'm not... If you get that? I didn't want to slam them on in this weather, but I'm a bit worried there might still be some air in the lines somewhere.

Yeh, try putting a ceramic cat on a car that melted a metallic cat. It wouldn't last 2 weeks. High quality metal cats will take a lot more heat than cheap metal cats, don't stinge out on your cat.

Have a read of the info on this page mate http://www.metalcat.com.au/