Nic_A31

Ah righto. Its just as likely to happen on any car with a tacho. Don't worry about damage, there's nothing wrong, this just sometimes occurs when the tacho climbs quickly and goes too far up...it can't cause damage in any way.

Dunno what you mean by normal... Its not common but its not exactly Christmas when it does.

Lazy me, didnt look at the pics again...there is wiring...do youhave nay idea where they go ? I just googled Mitsubishi ETC and got this http://www.mhi.co.jp/en/products/detail/el...ion_system.html

Nah contrary to popular beleif they were never used as taxi's. Wouldn't be for a tuner / workshop. Possibly a rental car... Alot of stuff on Nissans has the Mitsi logo. On both my Ceffies the Crank Angle Sensor, some other little electrical stuff and bits of the air con have that logo. Is there any wiring going into those card machines ?

importmonster

1: (red/white) is the tyre placard showing what the tyre pressure should be in KPA Weird...this should have been removed and replaced with an English sticker/plate during compliance. 2 + 5: (ENEOS) These look like "next service due at" stickers. AT = Auto Transmission CV = CV Joint etc 3 + 4 Where are they ? They look like amps or something 6: (Green/Black) Air con information (probably from the last air con service / last time air con was regassed) 7: (Black/White) Emmissions information ?

Odd place for that plate to go, but it might be a special edition of some kind. If ya want man, gimme your chassis number (scribed on the firewall, xR33-xxxxxxx (NOT the compliance VIN number)) and/or the model number (on the production plate, should be left on the chassis number) and I'll run the numbers through NissanFAST and see if its a special edition of some kind.

Brake fluid leak is AWESOME if you're sanding back and respraying the engine bay like I did...made the sanding job easier haha

That bloke in the first video isnt wearing a helmet....look at the speeds he gets up to. :|

Don't know off the top of my head of any 4 Doors. There is a 2 door getting a VQ30DET Build threads are here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Pr...-Buil-f190.html But I also check CarDomain, and BuildThread (part of WordPress) from time to time as well, just to see what's out there.

R34 gets my vote, finding a manual turbo might be tricky but they're out there. Alot more space inside, alot nicer materials used in interior, NEO motors are great.

Highmount turbo? Either way it's a good point, heat right next to brake fluid is not cool. It's also next to your power steering resevoir as well http://www.7tune.com/newtune/justin/cefiro/5.jpg (more on that drifter, here) More permanent heatshield and opening an air duct into that corner would help. If you're making your own solid lines, you could drill some holes into the firewall and run them back in there, under that gutter/drain,

Where on your car did you find that plate ?

Not sure on legalities, read the Australian Design Rules. I've yet to give my ABS a work out in the Ceffy but it has been usefull in my 94 J30 Maxima. I can't relate the symptoms you described to any ABS Nissan I've driven, might just be yours? Cefiro's had that supersonic suspension setup from the factory that had (auto) adjustable damper rates...the ABS might be tied in with this. I've never taken a look at how the ABS sensor at each wheel works...you should be able to use the same knuckle and wheel hub though. Like I said, you can just pull the ABS fuse if you like, for times when you don't want it interfering if it is doing so, and then put the fuse back in for driving around on the street? The extra weight isnt that much, and can be a lifesaver in the wet/limited traction situations.

Was it you a while ago asking about work at JB Hifi ? Try someone like them ... back in the day when I worked for them I was offered a job before I was even given the form to fill out for police clearance....none of this 3 month wait + induction + training day shit that the bigger companies like Coles / Woolworths put you through (worked for Woolies as well). Some shopping centre websites list any vacancies their stores have too, Google the nearest big shopping centre, if they've got a website you might get lucky ?

The sticker means it has had its 100'000km service, the mileage at which that service was done should be handwritten on the sticker. Not uncommon for alot of Japanese exports to have their 100k km service done 10-15k early. If it's running all sweet, in immaculate condition, and has good compression test results then that's all you really need. Air con still working is another sign of genuine low KMs

Take the plastic face off and turn the needle counter clockwise back to zero. Sometimes if the needle revs up quickly enough, or far enough past redline, it can't make it back to zero since gravity is giving the needle a hard time going back up, and holds it down on the opposite side. If its resisting, DO NOT push it otherwise it will be out of sync (which is a pain in the ass to re-sync). It should rest on that pin just below 0, and with the ignition ON it should hold at 0 by itself.

Even for track use, ABS can be very helpful, and its easy to disable (fuse). If you must remove it, pull the globe from the dash, disconnect the loom under the rear shelf and remove the ABS computer, remove all the brake lines, ABS hub, sensors, etc. Keep in mind the hard lines on Cefiro are Cefiro only...as they're a mix of using S13 master cylinder (which will also need to be replaced) running along an R32 firewall. Making your own solid brake lines isnt hard, if you're doing the R33 conversion you'll need to make up your own flexible brake hoses too (or dodgey modify the banjo bolt), so just do them all in one hit, but yeah, I reckon keep it...more con's than pro's if you remove it.

Hey dude, a while ago I suggested ImportMonster, disregard that. Your easier bet will be Nengun http://www.nengun.com/ On the collumn on the left, de-select New and Used, and select only YahooAuctions (this is YahooAuctions Japan), and search for A31. Nengun are more flexible for shipping parts to locations apart from Australia. HICAS lock bars are about $150 AUD (I have no idea what that works out to in whatever currency you use locally) and is a few hours work to fit and return the PS lines. For more lock alot of people use S14 "hubs" (knuckle assembly) and use rose jointed tie rod ends (steering rack is different between S13/A31 and S14 Braided lines fixes your overheating issue, kits available for RB20. Looking good. Always amazed by the number of new drift scars on that poor front bar everytime you update

2.

...news ?

Well if you're in love with the idea enough, go for it and don't let any c u n t on here with a bought car stop you!! First thing would be to fill out a vehicle application modification form (on the DPI website) and lodge it....AFTER carefull reading the ADRs and being sure the conversion legally falls within the ADR power:weight ratio rules (maximum variant of A31 Cefiro is 1400kg so it should fall well within the safe bracket). The DPI will return to you with a detailed list of exactly what you'd need to do regarding your application to license the car (what needs changing, what needs certificates, what other safety aspects might need attention, etc). Turnaround for these applications is (as of now) approx 5 weeks, sometimes a little less though.

I'm with Rowan. You got a sticker less than 12 hours after you bought it...if the paint job isnt saying something, THAT is. JASON: Cops don't need a reason to sticker you, they only need "suspicion" of something not meeting requirement. They're not even required to read ADRs or WA specific rules. Even if he CAN pass the pits first time with all the permits, its still a day off work and $75 out of pocket, which is annoying if you have to do it every 3 weeks. C-Red made this: Same same as Cefiro.

Have done a very small amount of work, years ago.

Between when I looked at the car initially and the second time, and when I picked it up, I'd taken note of how big the rust spot was (compared it along side my index finger), and it hadnt grown...which I was expecting since it'd been sitting out in the rain, even on the day we got that epic hail storm and 63mm of rain in 30mins. I just bashed in all the loose rust, cut another few mm off around that, and sanded the cut in, then bogged it....if it still manages to come back I'll actually be impressed. There was some rust forming on the inside of the opposite door, and a little on the fronts, which hadnt breached - looks like those weather shields werent sealed onto the door properly and were letting water build up between the plastic and the door itself, which is why it started eating away