Jay95R33

Depends alot on the condition of the motor and the tune. Umm, as a guess I'd say anywhere between 180-200rwkw on 12psi. Again, depending on the condition of the engine, the tune, and if you've got enough fuel etc..... Anyone else have a guestimation ?? J

He he he... My last game of paintball left me a bit worse for wear. Got hit fom about 8-10 meters away. The paintball hit me just above my left eye, just above where the mask stopped !!! Hit me straight onto bear flesh.... God it looked good. Straight after it hit me I looked like Bugs Bunny when he get's hit on his head and this massive lump just rises up !!..... Blood everywhere, bruised for about a week. But damn was it a fun day !!.... J

Pretty sure Apexi still make the 52's. The correct way to measure them is the size of the body of it. So bascally what size the hole needs to be to fit them in. So if the hole in the pillar mount if 52mm, then a gauge with the body size of 52mm will fit. J

Is the master cylinder hard to get out? Any hints?? Or should I just drop it off to someone? J

LOL - yeah, Duncan is right. Make sure the sunload sensor is in full sun light when you test it. J

In my tests the solinoid clicked open at about 11v and stayed open until the voltage dropped to 9.5v. Current drain while open was only about 200mA, so it should be fine to hold open indef. I had it open for about an hour and heat wasn't a problem. I figured that if the sloinoid failed it couldn't do any damage. It would simply stay open or stay closed. It wouln't bleed more air etc.. Let us know how you go. J

If your increasing the boost make sure you take the factory boost solinoid out of the car... Disconect it, plug the return hose that goes back into the inlet (bottom one). This might solve your problems. J

I looked into this a while ago. The boost solinoid isn't modulated to give the extra 2psi. It simply opens. It runs on 12v. All you need to do is disconnect the plug to the solinoid, connect one wire of the solinoid to earth and the other to 12v which is turned on with the ignition. The ECU won't give any error codes when the solinoid is disconnected. I tested the solinoid out of the car, so if your going to do it just be VERY carefull that it doesn't over boost. J

I usually get about 400km per tank. That's driving like a granny most of the time though My best was a recent trip down to Melb the back way (Cann River). Got 627 km to the tank and only drove for 40km after the fuel light came on... J

Well I downloaded it. The file was stuffed Went over to a mates place who has ADSL and got it again. This time it worked. The probel is that it works on his 1942 but not mine Might be cause he is using the original while I'm using a 'backup'.... The map looks good, but you can't put bots in it J

Jimx - dropping the box will be easy. I've done a 4wd box on a R32 GTS4-t and we had no problems. Sure the R33 one will be heavier, but you'll be right with two trolley jacks. Putting the box back in takes time to get the splines to line up, just take your time and don't expect it to go back in the first, second, third, or even the fourth try !! Took us about 40mins just to get the box to slide that extra 2 inches in to bolt it up (again, the splines weren't lining up). If you can, buy a lighnment tool... Mine crunches into 2nd. So I'll be interested to see how you go. I changed to VMX80 which helped a fair bit, but I've been tossing up to got to the redline stuff to try and get rid of it totally. J

Any chance of getting a list of cars and the power they put down ?? Any idea if any of the WRX's ran? There was a few damn nice WRX's there. J

LOL - well done Na, I didn't have time Next time I'll make time and give it a run. I bet John was shocked I was there when TomR33 ran his up and got a very healthy 203kw !! He has the basic mods but has a 1995 model car/ecu !! Lots of nice cars there..

I'm downloading it right now. There's a 70meg patch too !! Damn slow on dialup !! It'll take a good part of a day

Depends on what your after. I got a VDO boost and oil temp in mine cause I wanted the factory look. Everyone said that the VDO boost gauges weren't very good, but when I had my car on the dyno the boost gauge was out by 0.2psi at 12psi (dyno read 12.2psi and boost gauge said 12psi) !!! I think that is pretty good for the $125 that I paid J

Yepp - this is very typical from the R33's. You should see my dyno run !! Big dip in power when the ECU pulls timing and dumps fuel at about 4-5000 rpm The S-AFC will help. It fools the ECU and shows the ECU a reduced air flow rate, therefore the ECU doesn't pull as much timing blah blah blah. J

Yepp, stick with the high flow panel filter in the stock box. Take the wadding out of the lid of the stock box too, this will help flow a little. I personally think there's more gains by replacing the rubber pipe that goes between the AFM and the turbo. I haven't tried it yet, but one day I'll get it done. J

Good stuff Brody - hopefully this will get him to think twice next time he hits something. Good luck and keep us upto date J

I found that when I put on a mild steel dump and front pipe I could hear the turbo wind up much easier. Maybe the stock dump muffles the sound somehow ? J

James - did you end up going to the dyno runs on Saturday? I must have missed you, I was only there for about 30mins Did you run yours up?? J

Found this link on PF. One way NOT to install NOS !! http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/FAQnitrousX.htm

Cool - yepp that was me giving you a wave I was heading home from work. 4 o'clock Friday

Hay Mick, Was that you I saw today down the hyperdome at 4.30ish??? J

G'day Dan. Welcome to the family OK guys, who were the two R33's that I saw down the hyperdome today at about 4.30 ??? The first was a nice purple GTS-t, and the second was an amazing looking silver GTR.. Hands up J

I must admit - the ratio of d1ckhead bike riders here in Canberra is much higher than the ratio of d1ckhead car drivers !! Like someone said before, they seem to think they have a law of their own - until they have an accident, then someone else is always at fault !