Jay95R33

I thought you'd run one hose from the cam covers (you know how they both run into one hose) to one nipple of the catch can, then the other nipple would feed back into the intake system. The oil vapours get caught inside the can and the clean filtered air gets returned to the intake system. And the screw on the bottom of the can is to drain the oil out when the level (as indicated in that glass tube up the side of it) gets too high?? A sealed system like this is legal, the filter ones are a no no. Or am I totally off the mark?

Where the valve sits on the seat of the BOV there is nothing, just metal to metal. But there is a plastic gasket between the BOV and the mounting point on the cross over/inlet pipe

Balckness - dude that would be great if you post up how it goes. And good find in your boot, all I found in my boot when I got the car was a dirty old ash tray from some brothel in japan

Rev - Please, don't get me wrong. Your car is a quick car, I don't dought that for a second. What I'm trying to do is get a good (as equal as possible) comparison. Take out the variable of driver skill and make it based on car performance only. I'm willing to wind down my boost to 10psi and do a few runs with a mate with a video camera in the car (on a track ). I'm not trying to say mine is faster than yours, and going by the times you have, I have no dought that yours is quicker, but I'm just interested in the comparisons on the above test. Like I said, just for interests sake. J

He he he, that's true - people should go to the strip What I'm trying to take out is driver skill. Drag racing on the strip does take a fair bit of driver skill, so if we can take out that we can have a true comparison between cars. Anyone can mash the go peddal at 70 and hold it flat to 140. But getting someone (Mr Joe Bloggs) to launch good is another thing.

Just to add to that (couldn't be bothered hitting the edit button - love this quick reply thingy ). This comparison might give us an idea of turbo spool up times too. The light flywheel should get the motor reving faster which should/might bring it on boost faster compared to a car with a FMIC that is supposed to have lag. I think it would be very interesting. J

Yeah Meril is right. The only way you can do a true comparison is to hold it at 80km/h until your speed is level then mash it too 140. Plus the fact I don't think many people will want to mark out 330ft and 660ft markings on a highway somewhere

Rev - what would be really interesting is if you could give us some 70-140km/h 3rd gear, 100-160km/h 4th gear runs, and we can *try* and compare them to what other people are doing. You know the 'cruise to 70km/h in third, level off on speed, then just mash the go peddal until you hit 140km/h'. That takes out the launch (which alot of people find hard, me included , and the wild spinning in 1st and 2nd gear) and would show us how well your car revs out with the lightened flywheel and your tune etc, in comparison to what we have with our cars. I think this about the only other way we can make comparisons ?? Just a thought. J

Countdown to thread lockage... 10.. 9.. 8.. 7.. 6.. 5............

If you've got the BOV sitting in your hand and you blow into the plumbback pipe, air will come out that small port, regardless if the valve is open or closed.

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You have a R32 right? Have a look at Boosties post on how too make 250rwkw from a RB20DET. 250rwkw in a R32 will make it a beast. Heaps of good info in there that will put you on your way. And the good thing about that is that it's been tried and proven. If you need a hand spending your $5k let me know J

Well it looks like someone else came up with the same idea a while ago!! Have a look here; http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_bov_mod.html But they did it slightly different so you could have it "fast open - like stock" or normal so it hold boost better. Rev, I can't confirm any times or anything, and I'm not going to guess, but to me it feels more positive. Either way it's easy to reverse if need it be. OH, BTW - I did the thermo fan install yesterday. It does rev slightly faster now, nothing amazing, but there is a difference. It's so quiet now too, but when the fan turns on it sounds like a jet engine !!! I now like your idea about reducing rotational masses. :uh-huh: J

The front of mine is sitting at 105mm, 5mm above legal, and it's a right pain in the butt. Scrapes on anything that looks vagly steep. I'm actually going to raise it up 10mm. Lower than 100mm just isn't practical. J

I've been keeping an eye on the boost gauge today. With lite throttle boost situations it seems to come on faster. Before if I was accelerating slowing and it gradually came on boost I found it would get to about 1-2psi, then drop back to 0 and then build up again. Not sure why, but that has now stopped. I figure that hole would bleed at least 2-3psi of boost. I think the hole is a great idea if your running standard boost, but if you up the boost it'll bleed more. I'll be leaving mine with it in. Can't hurt, plus the noise is fulsik now.... maaaateee... :lol: :lol:

All in time young Skywalker, all in time....... :lol: :bahaha:

Cool, good to see there's some sort of reason why it's there. It's a shame that sometime effects it pretty bad when running higher boost Joe - that screw won't go anywhere, when you bolt the BOV back on it's hard up against the crossover pipe mounting point. No way it's coming out

1 bar on stock cooler = interHEATER !!! But he is running .8 ba and has pinging. Check everything out and get it looked at, plugs, filter, timing, fuel filter, fuel preasure blah blah blah.... Have you had a service done recently?? J

That's great fella's. Well done. Let's hope heaps of people read it and come see what we have to offer. We might even turn a few people to the darkside, do'h, I mean skylineside

Red17 has got it. 50/50 split will cause understeer simular to a front wheel drive car. And we all know that front wheel drive cars are for people who can't drive LOL....... ie. the WRX driver :lol: :lol: I read somewhere (I think it was Autospeed), that the reason they set up cars to understeer is because of the dummy factor !!! The comon driver doesn't know how to control a car in oversteer, but any dummy can control and get out of a situation that has understeer - you just take you foot off the go peddal. And taking your foot off the go pedal is apparently a natural reaction for 90% of drivers when they loose control of a car.

Scotty - you can get 45mm gauges here http://www.omorimeter.co.jp/english.html Don't know if they are any good or not, plus you'll have to mod the plate a little to get them in. Anyone else know where to get 43mm gauges?? J

John, What did you get busted for?? Was it a defect, or did you get caught dragging?

Step 1 - Ditch g/f Step 2 - 3 inch turbo back exhaust. *money saved from not spending on g/f now buys new exhaust Seriously now, get the exhaust done. You'll gain more power and then you can up the boost to 12psi with no hassles.

Is there any reason why you need that type?? Is it so you can see if it gets clogged up?? J

Put it back on the car and your all finished. The car does feel more responsive when on boost. And there isn't that sound of recirculating air when your on boost as much. The sound it makes has changed slightly. Before it was more of a ssssssshhhhhhhtttttt noise. But now is more of a pppppssssshhttt noise (if that makes sense !!). It sound like it's holding the boost until you come off the throttle instead of passing air (LMAO :lol: ) when your foot is still down. It can't be bad for it, have a look at any of the after market BOV and they don't have this little bleed hole, so what the hell Have fun. J