Jay95R33

Oh man that's bad sh1t !!! Hope you get it back soon. I hate bastard that pinch stuff.

Bang for buck, and if you where prepared to send $3k on the motor, I'd go the RB20 for $1.5k and then spend the other $1.5k on mods. Think about it. Stock RB25, or a RB20 with $1.5k spent on it !!!

INASNT - wouldn't it be tempting to take the paperwork to that cop and show him that you didn't need to change anything to pass, just to prove to him he has no idea :lol: But then I suppose he would pick on you evertime he see's you

Yepp, some types come with an adaptor so you can bolt it up into the same location. But your looking at a further $60 or so

Mine did the same thing, and that simple BOV mod stops that. I found it frustrating too Now it only opens when there's a decent amount of preasure difference - not 10psi+, but enough not to open at stupidly low boost.

Leave the metal plate (that you've made) there, and just bolt the stock BOV back upto it. Unless your putting the new BOV in the same place. J

Mine was doing the same. Since I pi$$ed the clutch fan off it hasn't squeaked once. J

benm - about 3.8 lt or so. Pretty close to 4 lt.

Turbomad - my intlet track is the same - zero oil in it, so it'd be pointless for me to install one too. Yet 2 friends with turbo cars both hae oily inlet tracks.... Strange... Does the oil come from the turbo leaking oil around the bearings or does it come from the crank case brething up into the cam covers and then out that way?? J

When I put my gauges on the A pillar I thought I'd do the right thing and ring up the legal team at NRMA (I was a member so I thought I'd try and get my monies worth ). I told them what I wanted to do and asked them to look into it. After 3 hours of looking through all the RTA and Vehicle modification books they could find, there was nothing saying that you couldn't put them on the A pillar. They ended up ringing the RTA directly and low and behold there's nothing in writing saying that you can't put them on the A pillar. So after hearing that advice I went ahead and did it. BUT - that doesn't mean that they won't defect you on it, cause you know that fighting with a copper on the side of the road get's you nowhere, and the inspection guys at the RTA generally have no idea

Really not sure what the difference would be. As long as the probe is fully submerged it should be fine. I've had no problems with clearance, my car sit's pretty low, and in the 12 months it's been there it hasn't hit anything. J

Oil temps are pretty easy to put in. With my VDO oil temp gauge it came with a fitting that replaces the sump plug. You take the sump plug out (put it in a safe stop !!) screw the adaptor fitting in it's spot then screw the oil temp probe into the adaptor and your all done. You've just got to get the right thread type on the adaptor. I can't remember what it is off the top of my head, but it's quite fine. I rang up Nissan and asked them and told me over the phone. J

A little off topic, but I did the ring around today for a pair of tyres. I'll be getting the 901's again (fronts this time). And the bloke said that the FM901's are being replaced by a LM382 (or something like that). The strange thing is this bloke quoted me $278 for a 901 and $237 for a LM382. I wonder if this means the LM382 are going to be a crappier tyre??? After a few phone calls I found the 901's at $220 each - much better

Sounds good - I haven't seen mine over 95 yet so that's OK. Thanks

G'day Roy, Yepp, it flow's both ways. I checked this out just to make sure. Strange hay. Not sure what it's meant to do like it is, maybe it makes the transision from BOV closed to BOV open smoother or something? I don't know... But mine does feel a bit snappier while on boost. R31 Power - if your ECU is anything like the ECU's on the R33 and R32's then you might get the stalling and overfueling problems that some of the other blokes have had went they run a BOV that vents into the air.

James, Bring her around we'll wind her up to about 20psi. It'll be right If you want, I'll take you for a drive in mine and you can see what sort of spikes you can get with a bleed. James and I tuned my bleed valve, pretty easy. I think mine spikes to about 13 and settles on 12psi. 10-12psi is ok on the stock cooler, but I'd get the exhaust done first. EBC's will give heaps better results over a bleed, but so they should for about 5 times the price of a good bleed valve. EBC's will give you no wastegate creep, but you can get bleed valves that reduce wastegate creep heaps - but not down to zero like a EBC will.

Rev - Did you re-drill the slots in the sensor thingy to that much advance?? I heard from someone that one of the benefits of the S-AFC wasn't just reducing the mega rich A/F, but also the addition of more advance timing due to the AFM seeing less airflow (after the S-AFC). Apparently the more air flow the stock ECU see's, the more it will retard the timing. Is this right??

Did you check the fuel filter when you did all the rest? Might be worth a look. Check the vacume/boost pipe going to the fuel reg, if it's blocked the fuel reg won't increase preasure while on boost. Ummm..... You've checked everything else that I can think of. Good luck J

If you've got the $$$ get some good tyres on the back, it'll make a big difference. I'm not talking 255 rubber, just a really good tyre. I got a set of 901's on the back and they are so much better than what I had. Pineapples are apparently a good thing too (they are on my 'to do' list). Reduces axel tramp and gives better grip. Funny that your GTS-t is stock, and after the 1/4 mile it's even with a silghtly modded WRX - I love it

American's will believe ANYTHING..... That is sooo funny. Drop bears... Baahahahhahahahhahahahahahahaha

Tell you the truth I can't remember where I saw that cut away picture. Yeah that's it, if you have a look at the standard set up that should be there ATM, the left cam cover goes to the right, then one hose comes off the right and goes back into the intake. What you should do is cut that pipe that goes from the right cam cover to the intake and put your catch can in line with it. So it'll filter the air that's from both cam covers. Does that make sense? J

I think the R33 turbo's are T3 flange with T28 internals or something wierd like that. Yepp, a T3/T4 will bolt onto the factory T3 flange inlet manifold, but I think you need to make up a new dump pipe. And as stated before, boosting above 12-14psi may have you looking in your cat converter for part of your turbo !!

I presume the ECU went with the loom

SydneyKid - what sort of oil temps would warrant an oil cooler?? Now that I've got a front mount intercooler and a thermo fan (FMIC is stopping a bit of air into the engine bay, and the thermo only comes on when the water temp gets up) the oil temps get up to around 90 degrees or so when cruising around at 80-100km/h. I intend on wrapping the dump pipe in thermo wrap to get under bonnet temps down a bit, maybe that might help??? Roy - sorry for the quick thread hi-jack J

Yeah true. No vapours has gotta be better. I've seen a cut away diagram of a Cucso one that was simular to the one in the pic, and it had three chambers in it, the first was where the cam cover came in, and that was open at the bottom to the middle chamber and the middle chamber was then open at the top to the third chamber which went back to the intake. The middle chamber was packed full of this stainless wire stuff?? So the oil had to go down into the middle, then get trapped in the wire stuff, and the the clean(ish) air went up to the third part. Looked cool, and pretty simple really.