smithy85

Two decent mufflers in any system, even 3.5", is usually enough to maintain a respectable noise level. Start removing mufflers on the other hand and the real RB noise starts to show , which is the route I took: - I went from a 3" mandrel bent system that had a small hotdog plus a rear cannon and changed it to a Veilside 3.5" JASMA which actually made it quieter (EPA tested at 91db) because of the two monster mufflers it had. Then I got sick of the over-muffled noise and got rid of the centre muffler and that has given a nice balance of relative quietness during cruising plus a good "bark" when its punching holes in the horizon!

Mine made 233kw at the wheels running 14.5psi through the std R32 turbos on a powerfc plus cam gears, so you should be able to get up pretty close to that, pending on the tuner and engine condition

Shims could the problem or something simple like the handbrake?

good idea, theres alot of other things to do first that will give better and easier gains.

^ true that, on the dyno at JEM at the moment!

Wheels and ECU sold! I also have a pair of std turbos in good condition with minimal shaft play. $350 delivered within Aus And a set of std GTR injetcors all in good condition. $150 delivered within Aus. All offers welcome.

^white plug

I threw a 3.5" Xforce cat in my R32 GTR along with Trust front pipes 70mm into 80mm, and straight away made a big difference to the mid range even with the standard turbos that were on at the time. I got the cat from Just Jap and they say they flow at 880cfm. Not sure how that converts into cells per square inch (CSPI) though. Is there a conversion? Don't bother with the dumps until the time comes to swap out the turbos, bit of waste of time and effort - alot of effort, considering the end result is of no big gain.

Push a Garrett GT35R/T04Z to 400kw+. FY,I GCG sell both of these as a kit with a manifold, gate and other bits and pieces. No dump pipe though.

Mine was uber tight and ended up needing a massive claw puller to get it off, but because the puller was so long, I had to remove the A/C condenser as well HAHA!

^ Yeah my thoughts exactly lol

You will need to remove: radiator fan and belts cam angle sensor top timing cover crank pulley and then lower timing cover timing belt Its best to get the timing marks all lined up before you take the timing belt off, so then you can just 'one for one' each cam gear without changing any of the marks. Then its just a reverse process to put it all back together. There should already be a bit of info on this, just search. Also the manual sets it out fairly straight forward.

I have just put in some Denso 720cc injectors into the GTR and am now up to going through the PFC hand controller and adjusting the settings. When I go into the the injector screen as per the FAQ it all reads 0.0% and 0.00ms, yet I was under the impression that it should read 100% with the standard injectors. Anyway I adjusted the correction to 61.6% and 0.19ms latency and the car started and ran, a little lumpy, but nothing too bad. I went out of that screen and back in but the settings I had just put in had all reverted back to the original 0.0% and 0.00ms. Does anyone know why the settings aren't staying there? Could it have a Datalogit lock out for adjusting these kind of things? Assuming the computer is running the original settings but with the larger injectors,it would just be running rich, so will it be right to take to the tuners 10mins away? Or should I just chuck the old injectors back in and give it to the tuners to figure out?

Been running 18x9.5 P45R's on the GTR for about 18 months now with no issues, and really why would there be issues. I don't drive into kerbs, I dont go offroad, I don't drive through roadworks and potholes - So basically I drive like a normal person and not like a "P plater drift champion". Wheels don't just crack by themselves, abuse generally does it.

FOUND

So much to weigh up when it comes to buying. It all depends on your initial outlay and what you are willing to spend down the track. If you want the better car (assuming they are both in good nick), then go the V-spec and spend more later. Before you buy either one, get the engine compression tested which will give a rough idea on engine condition. If 260-280 kw is the goal then go for R34 N1/2860-7 turbos to retain max response, (will still pull a over 300kw fairly reliably if pushed). Power FC will do just fine, plus cam gears. A good clutch is needed to hold the power, my choice was Nismo Supercoppermix Twin. Fuel pump won't be needed but injectors will need to be min 550cc and will be heaps for that power goal with room to push up closer to 350kw. Ensure you get a full exhaust with good dumps, big front pipes, high flow cat and about 3.5" cat back exhaust. Standard air flow meters should see around 300kw, give or take 20kw, so will be OK for now. Newer coilpacks are better to have for peace of mind, although the standard ones perform really well even at higher power levels. That gives you a quick heads up but above all - SEARCH, as the site has bucket loads of info, particularly on what you want.

What you have there are standard RB25 Neo injectors.

Well 'seat of the pants' the old turbos pulled hard at 3500-3700 @14.5 psi, so the newer -9s don't have much to beat especially if setup purely for boost response and mid range torque, rather than peak power. We'll see.

Good job Don Dada, always good to see the actual evidence. I am in the same boat at the moment. My car made 233kw with the standard turbos, full exhaust, power fc, cam gears and profec2. I have just installed -9's last week and have been driving the car to work and notice that these turbos come on a bit later -200/300rpm later, although this is on the same tune. The car pulls a touch harder but really don't want to rev it hard at all, so without a tune it is hard to compare turbos. I do think there is massive potential to be had just from the tune + cam gear setup and believe these turbos can give boost response as good as stock. The car was previously tuned by JEM and will be back in there next week for the new tune in which I want to get as much mid range as possible, because I am not overly interested in revving the ring out of the engine just to pull an extra 10kw and blow it to pieces. I will have definite results and comparisons at the end of next week. Should be interesting.

Don't know of any cats that come with a 3 bolt flange, I struggled finding a 3.5" cat with a 2 bolt. Most of the hi flow cats don't cone with any flanges and are just basically a pipe and that's it, so getting one of them and getting the flanges you want welded on would be your best bet. Also as BSA stated,, there is no harm in getting your existing cat modified to a 3 bolt to suit rather than having to purchase a whole new cat.

Yeah you can cut the 3 bolt flange off and weld on the normal 2 bolt with no issues, but 3 bolt flanges are better at creating a good seal especially at the larger pipe diameters. So the choice is yours, go for a 2 bolt and have the common flange type or go for a 3 bolt flange which will be the better connection.

For everyones information, I have compiled this spreadsheet of all the results from the RB26 dyno thread here: SAU_dyno_comparisons.xls This only includes results that aren't from standard turbos, but heaps of results from -7's/N1's, -9's/GT-SS, and -5's/2530. I have also added this to the dyno thread. And yes I did get really bored to find the time to come up with this one lol.

For everyones information, I have compiled this spreadsheet of all the results from the RB26 dyno thread here: SAU_dyno_comparisons.xls This only includes results that aren't from standard turbos. I hope this doesn't get deleted/moved. And yes I did get really bored to find the time to come up with this one lol.

If you still have the urge to butcher a GTR then maybe go for the lambo style: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/139406-skyline-with-scissor-doors/

I'm with most, please don't ruin a GTR! If you really have to, then find a GTS or a NA supra, don't wreck all the good stuff, lol!