scotty nm35

With a consult unit. You need to contact someone local with a reader or go to Nissan I guess.

Det, obviously.

No change to ecu's... We will be running the DD ecu with the EMU.

Yeh, sounds like the reg can't bypass enough fuel unfortunately. It can keep up at 12v but not at 14v when the engine is running.

I don't want to fit a modified engine, I want it stock to get it running right before he goes chasing the powerz. I won't be fitting the turbo heat shield anyway so it should only be a few hours work to drop the turbo.

The return bypass hole in the reg is probably only 2mm in size so I don't think the return line size will matter much. Are you sure the reg is genuine? I assume all was well with it before the pump change? Can you perhaps try fitting another reg? I run the relatively cheap SX reg with twin Walbros on e85, no issues here.

I expect Haltech are being helpful with the support as usual...

It will be fine, just run a little rich which should mask the cold start issues. Try it out, I doubt you will notice any difference driving, just easier cranking. You could possibly run it even richer than that without problems so try a few different amounts of 98 until you work out how much you need. It doesn't have to be accurate... Normally when you run too rich you could foul the plugs, with high ethanol percentage you won't. Even if the car floods, all you have to do is wait for it to evaporate.

I agree Adrian, it makes it quite hard to tune to straight 98 unless the ecu can reduce load (boost). As I have a separate controller I was planning to run a relay to disconnect the boost solenoid at a certain point, say e40, and run off wastegate pressure.

I have the entire loom anyway, but I imaging it may take a while to to remove it all. Perhaps make sure the loom is present and PM me to work out a price for the kit.

A better price is definitely out there, just not sure on minimum quantities and quality yet.

The sensor is all you need to replace, the tube is just a plastic tube. The Amayama one 'should' come with a 12 month warranty. Best to speak to them about it before purchase. They are known to last anything from 1 second to 4-6 months. Like I said, I wouldn't be buying one. The second hand one can come from many different cars, eg Maxima, Xtrail, Pulsar, if you google search the part number you will soon realise they are all similar just with different numbers. Even VW and Merc ones look the same with a different plug. How long it lasts is anyone's guess. I would just buy the ebay one in the link provided for now and try it out. There are a few guys running them without issue, I just wanted to check how accurate the air temp sensor was to ascertain the quality first. I will probably place a large order directly from China to bring the costs down for us all, and allowing us to afford a spare for the glovebox.

It would depend want parts you need. Is the DVD rom above the glove box still? This is the brain that runs the monitor. I assume all the wiring is still there? My car never came with the screen, I was planning to instal this one until I realised how much wiring was involved. Are you sure yours had a screen originally?

Good chance, 80mm tube is around 3 inch internal depending on wall thickness.

All tube is measured outside diameter so a 3 inch system isn't actually 3 inch internally. To confuse the situation more the Japanese use metric pipe sizes, 70mm, 80mm 90mm OD while we, for some stupid reason, still use imperial measurements. 3.5 inch will be much louder than a 3 inch system but again, the Fujitsubo isn't 3.5 inch. What size do they quote, 80mm I think? If it is a Jasma system it should be very reasonable noise wise, the Legalis I had on my Stagea was almost legal Db over here.

As there is very little adjustment for cold start and cranking enrichment the EMU requires the factory ecu to take care of it. I think my 1000cc injectors were set to around 5-600cc to get the car to start and idle fine on e90 (United). Then your tuner or you can fiddle with the maps to fine tune the cold start enrichment. The car may need twice the fuel to crank nicely on a cold morning.

The EMU is always going to be a compromise but it also has the benefit of running like the stock ecu, because essentially it is. Great for us auto owners. If you are running a manual box, the Adaptronic is hard to go past for flex setups simply as it's cheaper than it's competitors. Have a play around with mixes, you should barely notice 20% 98 mixed into the tank and cold starts would be greatly improved. Worst case it runs a little rich on boost and begins to break down spark. How good are your coil packs? When you tune at over e40-e50 there is little chance of detonation, unless you are pushing the tune hard.

That is the path I was going down Leon, but I wanted to check the quality and test the airflow map. As Dale is running a Chinese one I assume they work well, as long as they are all coming out of the same factory... And I bet that's the same factory Nissan buy from.

Just because the pump is making noise doesn't mean it's pumping fuel. Disconnect the return line and make sure there is fuel coming out for a start... Do you happen to have an immobiliser stuffed under the dash? I would say your FPCM is stuffed, I assume that was the smoke you saw. If you had caught most of the smoke in a safeway bag or similar you may have been able to inject it back into the controller, and get it working again.

I used to run a small 1L petrol canister in the engine bay with a single injector welded into the plenum and a stock fuel pump (no reg), powered by a momentary switch on the dash. It worked a treat for winter and lasted months. I learnt simply putting 5L of petrol in the tank then filling on e85 helped immensely, and later we ended up tuning a lot of the issue out by lowering the injector size and letting the stock ecu do all the work. United is definitely harder to start under 15 degrees than Caltex, but if you are tuned to run United and you fill at Caltex anyway your issues should disappear also. Further to this, I am trying to get my hands on some cheap flex fuel sensors and wire them into a customers Emanage Ultimate, through the spare front panel input. Hopefully that would give the tuner an 8x8 map dependant on ethanol content, and negate the need to fill on e85 only. A 50/50 mix would be plenty for winter. I will be fitting the Flex sensor into my Fcon also, for practicality.

Yes, it's still all here too Chahl

VQ ones aren't similar and can't be repaired. It seems the processor on the board inside the afm stuffs up, it will require replacement. The main issue is the original part has been superseded, and the new AFM Nissan supply doesn't seem to last long. Your original one has lasted 13 odd years, these are lasting 4 months if you are lucky. Nissan don't want to warrant them either, and at a cost of $350 each... My suggestion it to try and find a second hand one for now until I sort out an aftermarket alternative for us to use, at 1/4 the price, then keep it in your glove box. Our original Nissan p/n is 22680-6N211 and the new Nissan p/n is 22680-6N21A.

What about soft compound race semis?

Is this on a Stagea? I never did like the set of KU36's I used, they seemed good for a while but then the noise started... I have a set of AO48's on 17x9 inch drifteks if you are interested, only done one track day...

http://www.injectorsonline.com/indivprod.php?cid=79 Does that give you a better indication?