scotty nm35

Collapsed cat perhaps? Sounds like your clutch fluid needs changing too, or at least a bleed...

I found the same thing Stao, perhaps the extra carbon content in the exhaust stream? A GTX3076 would almost get you 400kw, (with a large AR rear) but not with the response of the Hypergear, or the HTA from the few results I have seen. e85 would be a must at that boost though.

To which car? I just sold a set of Akebono's as I didn't want to run 19/20's. Edit: Just clicked the link. Are they the same brakes as the 350z touring?

You need to get the codes read, we can't diagnose the ecu faults for you... Or reset them.

Needs 'Hypergear ALFA series' cnc'd into the front housing, on the built plate area. Can you do the above to an M35 turbo for me Tao? Is that 320kw on e85 or 98?

As long as there is a breather, or the ability to suck air through the pump without building vacuum it will be fine. Gear pumps are very reliable as long as they are lubricated.

When's Trent back? I want to see this turbo in action.

I have one of these I may be able to sell to someone, http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Rear-Mount-Turbo-Oil-Gear-Pump-12v-Heavy-Duty-12-volt-Scavenge-Replace-STS/150768513335?rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D163%26meid%3D9084653915329580858%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D1088%26rk%3D3%26sd%3D111037307067%26 It is a little noisy for the rear mount application I am using it with, it would be great for quickly emptying the catch can though. You can easily get BSP to dash fittings for it. I am going with the VDO instead. Hopefully quieter for the street.

The connector is under the dash, unplug it and the pump should run for a period of time, allowing you to bleed the hydraulic system.

Mine does. I have a spare pair of factory HID headlights here, just need HID bulbs I think... It depends how hacked up your factory gear is as to which way would be best to go...

It would depend which engine he was going for, the DD's are always going to be caked in carbon deposits due to the direct injection alone, not to mention the EGR gasses. Very hard to tell engine condition by plenum cleanliness as it may have been cleaned out recently. You need to get the car onto a hoist and check for rust in the chassis, listen to the engine for rattles, and check the interior for wear. If the interior isn't brand spanking new there is no way that V35 only has 69,000k's on it. Once you buy, change all the fluids asap.

Great result Bob. Don't bother with cams unless you plan to rev it harder. I think you could do so much better with a .82 rear, there are usually drawbacks to running small housings on large turbo's, what is the transient response like? I still miss my 1.06ar Tial.

I was going through 20L in 7 minute sessions at Sandown. lol.

Yerp... I do...

Good luck with that... A GT35 won't run 35psi on ethanol let alone 98...

Is the boost dropping at the same point? That may point to the turbo, wastegate or a major boost leak.

So it runs a little rich, who cares... Makes cold starts easier.

Get an Emanage on it ffs Brick.

Where are you using it then if not to service the gearbox? Nulon synthetic is cheaper than Matic J...

What's your location? You should change to larger terminal clamps and run a ford battery. I modified my clamp slightly for the wider battery.

Haha, atmo BOV needs to go, or perhaps a good tuner could tune around the fuel dump?

You could take it to a machinist to machine the flange straight, or just slap on an oem gasket, sprayed in Hylomar and bolt it on... It can only leak a little.

FYP.

Tune on United e85, that way you can use either mate.

So don't crack the gate near the mike, find out where it is and back off nice and early.