scotty nm35

Looks like you will have to go custom. Are you after stainless or mild? If you get the 4 bolt flange the rest is easy for any fabricator.

So what's the problem? Just run 20psi and have a nice flat boost curve.

Too much preload on the actuators perhaps?

Don't use the 040, the filter is prone to clogging and it is an old clunky design. The Walbro 460L is overkill if you aren't tuning the car, even a Walbro 342 is more than you need, only costs $100, but still requires hard wiring the power. I would be keeping the stock pump until you decide to tune it.

The trans will be fine in winter, it just needs a helping hand in summer really, to cool the fluid down and help it last. Heat is what kills auto's. I would recommend the shift kit for any M35, however it's driven. The stock pressures are very low for comfort and soft shifts, but that is what promotes clutch wear. If the clutches go it could cost you 3-4 grand for a build, unless you can pick up a S/H one to replace it.

The cams only switch on above 2k and off again by 5k I think so it wouldn't have anything to do with starting, you can always unplug the blue actuator plugs at the front to make sure. If they were both locked on it would cause a lumpy idle, like a V8 with massive cams. Wobble the crank sensor around (loosen the bolt only a little) while someone tries to start the car, see if it fires better on a different angle. That would have to be the main reason for not starting. The VQ35 coils are AL516 or something, I posted the part numbers up a few times before, if you want to have a search around. I think the turbo coils have a higher discharge voltage.

Just get the Transgo shift kit done Stabby, it changes most of the fluid in one hit and is a must do mod for the M35, along with the brake wire cut. It sounds like the trans has been cooking, was there much red powder in the oil pan?

^^ Apex seals. Fo sure.

Oh, by the way, what coil pack are you getting in return? Make sure it's a AL515 (off the top of my head) if you have a DD or det.

I just replace them, but I am sure you could re-shim them if needed, they simply wear over time. It wouldn't take much to tighten them, perhaps one shim, but if they are binding you could try taking one out? I doubt your has the issue, more likely the sensors are different. The original sensors are much better quality, similar to the AFM, the original ones are lasting 10-15 years and the replacement parts are failing after a short time. Made in China now? If it starts ok with the crank sensor disconnected, the sensor isn't aligned on the flex plate properly. The cam faults may be a separate issue, especially if they weren't throwing codes before you changed the sensors.

It is a common problem, I have changed quite a few lately. I have never seen them throw a code on the VQ25det though. It isn't anything to do with the egr as we don't run it. Usually the washers bind, or worse, they get loose and rattle like buggery. If you just changed the sensors it may just be them? Try the old sensors... Hard starting will be the crank sensor not being aligned properly most probably. Have you tried to start it with the crank sensor unplugged?

C'mon guys, he's after performance, not an empty wallet. He went with the stronger and more reliable engine. I haven't died yet Daleo, my subframe has refused to crack, even after many track thrashings running sticky semi's. I have no idea what you Sydney guys are doing to the subframes to cause those hairline cracks...

If you keep the boost low enough, like 7 psi, you should be able to drive it around ok, off boost should be fine. The ecu will definitely need a tune though, make sure you change the plugs for the tune as they will be fouled. Sorry Rotaron, I should have mentioned I can help you out with prices on injectors and pump if needed, but I assume you are sorted by now...

Check that the ecu is getting it's brake signal to the engine ecu, pin 101 I think. That would throw an engine light though. I don't think there is a direct brake signal to the gearbox but I haven't played with the cvt's at all yet. If it is in the box you will need to get it on a consult 3 unit for diagnosis. What unit did you use to read the error? Do you have the code number?

There is very little lag with the larger front imo, it simply slows the air speed down a little in the outlet pipe due to the extra area. I have an aftermarket 0.7 housing here for a GT35 if you want to try it out before swapping the rear.

Including shipping and duty that midpipe will cost nearly 3 grand shipped, and it's not even titanium. GTR tax at work, obviously. I could make a better quality midpipe with more flow for 1/3 the price. Get some local quotes first...

Is it AWD? I would be trying another set of matched wheels first, sounds like the attessa is shuddering.

Not an idling project, I wanted his rebuilt engine out of my garage so I could get some space back. The extra power from the ss2 was just a bonus for him. Definitely need to get a cruise organised, as soon as it's tuned properly.

It should last a little while with a shift kit as long as it's got a big cooler...

Which wideband are you running? It sounds like it needs calibration as it's reading high. Can you compare it against another, or get it on the dyno?

No problem buddy, glad to help. Bit of a step up in power mate, take it easy in the wet...

Common VQ issue, but understand they have been filling up (weeping) over the years, if you clean them out they should be fine for more years to come. You will need to replace the rocker cover, as the plug tube seals aren't replaceable. Amayama would be the cheapest bet, or second hand if you are game. As oil is an insulator it is unlikely to be the source of the code unfortunately.

There are no vanes in the bend, I just asked.

Unless there is nothing to compare it to, like mine... Not much chance of good weather at the moment for him to get a decent run in.

Worked ok for them.^^ There is a fair bit of pipe before the plenum opens up, through the throttle. I doubt it would make much difference to distribution. The VQ25det plenum has a 180 bend right before the runners and works fine. That said, I agree you want to soften any tight bend you can to improve flow.