NFAA32

Well, since the last thread got lost in the change over of forum software, i needed a place to say thankyou. anyway, a big thanks to: Dr Drift for coming up and running my car on the dyno(no tune needed ) BigFella, for organising the day in general the guys at B & R automotive for hosting the day i couldnt stay for long as i needed to come back down to tweed heads. but the parts i was there for everyone seemed like they were having fun(even if alcohol assisted), and everyone was very approachable(even endless silly questions on my part) my advice to everyone, if/when Sam(dr drift) comes back up, i would highly recommend him for a tune. thanks again to all involved Michael

We have them at work(i work for nissan) and to breifly explain them, its basically vomit on wheels. with tacky plastic interior.

pics to [email protected] cheers. michael

Hey, for sale as i do not need them are the following, 1 pair Stock Rb26 camshafts $200 1 Pair stock r32 tail lights(silver) no damage $140 1 Front Strut brace for r32 (cusco) $120 1 Rear Strut Brace for r32 (nismo) $120 1 autometer boost gauge(white face, 20psi) $50 1 set Razo Carbon fibre pedals $60 1 Veilside Steering wheel(no boss kit - may require re trim(depends on how picky you are(i am so am keeping stock one) $100 1 Full set of r32 gtst Seats(front pair and rear) $ not sure, make an offer also i have various interior items from r32 coupe, pm or email with what you want and ill see if i have it. Please email me for further details etc as i may not be able to check back here sometimes. all parts are located Gold coast, qld [email protected] cheers Michael

when i installed my type one into my old gtst i had a similar problem, and that was because the wires i used, seem to be too far away from actual ignition? :S basically i used the ignition, constant power etc from behind stereo. either way, no workies. but when hooked up directly to ignition it worked also, when i took it out and put it into my gtr, i couldnt remember which wires were which(seperate time from removal to re install), it turned out that the english instructions for ig power that i had(hks usa install guide), was wrong way around, but when i turned off car, it would turn off and timer would go off. so it might not be that either :S

providing you get the right series(gts4 for gts4, or gtst for gtst etc). it should be asimple swap. youll need to pull apart the dash surrounding it(black stuff), but to get to that youll need all the bottom part of dash out, this is from memory as i havent done it in a while. Michael

why not use the dipstick to check??? from memory when i had my gtst it was just over 4l

and how many weeks do you think that would take. ? at the moment the only thing i can come up with is contact nissan japan. as i work for nissan in aus, and all our systems(fast software, intranet etc) either dont show the engine number, or dont show jap vehicles.

Hey guys, lets say theoretically, you have a gtr, and you have a blank engine number, it hasnt been filed off, it would appear as tho its a blank block, been rebuilt etc, either way i need to find out the engine number of the engine from the car originally. any thoughts? Michael

i have aftermarket injectors on my car, there green? any idea what brand/size they are? there on an aftermarket fuel rail ofcourse. in sard range, it would make them 800cc. but still not sure, how can i identify brand/ cc ?

im not saying it will be an interooler pipes etc. but as with everything, i check if its the cheaper fix first haha. if its the gaskets, you should be able to do them at home, providing you have patience, and the gtr service manual(for tightening torque and order (to tighten bolts)) you shoul dbe fine, i would also recommend a torque wrench for the correct torque

it could be a leak on intercooler pipes

20th sounds fine, the sooner the better tho haha.

gavin woods auto tech is awesome.. and with nissan mobs, youll find some people in the dealership do know stuff, ie our workshop, but because of the service advisors (people who answer phones) dont know shite, people think they have no idea.

the build date is jan 1990 .. maybe im stupid(prolly) but i couldnt get the actual engine number of it, it should be printed on the engine block, and whoever did thesafety cert should have found this??? im pretty sure its down just infront of the oil filter? but i could be wrong

if only someone told him sooner.

what time during august, as i would like to put a pfc in my gtr but i dont exactly want to run base map for a couple of months.? also, approx cost?

ive seen 225s on a 8.5 inch rim before.. and it was not pretty...

i would not be hitting boost till you got it on a dyno to check a/f ratios.

thats interesting, as i was issued with a new vin number on my 15 yr old import approval. and the mod plate your talking about daniel, is QLD, in nsw, you have just an engineers certificate(same thing, just no plate in engine bay)

they basically fit a smaller tread to wider rim.. hence stretching out sidewalls. when the sidewalls are stretched, they basically have no givein them, hence being easier to spin the wheels... its basically the opposite to big drag radials, there huge sidewalls flex alot to aid grip. you can do it, its a hassle to put the tyres on the rims, but is possible. i wouldnt suggest going to huge extremes as yes, it does make it more likely to seperate from the bead. michael

price?

syphon it out i guess, you could use a hose? we have a hand pump at work we use when idiots fill their nissan patrol deisels up with petrol.. but it depends on how thorough you want to be. you could then remove tank and clean it with .. hrm, is it metho or turps? one of em i think. Michael

umm i think major service at our workshops are rated at 2 hours, maybe 2.2 if plugs are there too, however, it could be different, at nissan/mazda dealership were i work, our labour rate is $82, so i would say budget $200 plus parts and thats comfortable(should be). as i dont think most places charge that rate for labour(would have to ring particular workshop). either way, i would call a workshop, and get a quote. i wouldnt know best workshops down there to do the work :s check with nsw guys. gearbox and diff will be slightly different, alot of people recommend redline, some recommend motul stuff, its all a bit of personal preference. Personally, i have had no problems with motul engine oil. so ill stick with it. With your backfiring problems, i personally would get a fresh import and get a dyno run, for a/f ratios, just to be safe. but thats me. Michael

syphon it out i guess, you could use a hose? we have a hand pump at work we use when idiots fill their nissan patrol deisels up with petrol.. but it depends on how thorough you want to be. you could then remove tank and clean it with .. hrm, is it metho or turps? one of em i think.