GTRgeoff

OK here's the article as jpeg's Enjoy http://geoffwill.ozforces.com.au/

Roy Don't panic. It will come back when your better half has everything she wants and the cash is just being spent on frivolous things. I used to swing spanners before uni so my shopping list comes out a whole lot cheaper than yours. Just like to do it myself.

Good news

Just that it might be a big end, oil pressure doesn't have to drop....

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...07&page=1&pp=30

Drifter, didn't see it was black, I need grey so ignore my email.

Well there are two large metal washers on each side of the timing belt pulley on the crank. They could be a bit loose and tapping. BTW my oil pressure was great except when I let it get too low but after refill it was back up.

Sweetr33 if it sounds like a dull knock and is at about 2500 rpm it may be a bearing on the way out so keep getting opinions. I now have a mechanics stethoscope and know what to listen for and where. Always too late. I actually spun #3 big end and there will be some machining to fix it.

Hah, found it...thanks Simonster.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=28130 "I used the standard RB25 rods in my rebuild, but be aware there are at least 2 types. The weaker of the 2 ive seen has a small lump on one side of the rod shaft about 2cm below where it connect to the piston. This type is very weak, the other looks exactly the same as the RB26 rod. These are the ones i used which I shot peened and linished. My engine is built to support 550hp all day- just food for thought for As far as the rod bolts, yes ARP don't make them for the RB25, I used ARP for the SR20, works just fine Good luck with your re-build" So not GTR rods but apparently the "stronger items"

Gary thanks for asking some searching questions. I imported the car from Japan myself in the early days of my business (now inactive) and was advised the car had Tein lowered, non height adjustable suspension (I suspect only springs as the shock rods are narrow), "Big Ball Maffer" which is a 3" cat back Jasma plated stainless exhaust, HKS pod filter, strut brace and 3 piece Impul 17"s. Everything else should be considered stock as i don't have the knowledge to compare adequately. As received it went pretty well and a little better than others with similar mods but after a blown compressor seal the subsequent detonation from the injested oil cracked 4 pistons. I bought a hi flowed Rigoli stocker to replace the turbo and then shipped in 0.5mm OS std pistons and rings and dragged it down to the recos for machining. I left the bearings alone as I was only after about 35-40K before another rebuild but with all of the blowby i fitted a small catch can, then stuffed up and ran #3 big end. Only got 30K and the other bearings still appear good, so not too bad. I have never dyno'd the current config but hand timing 0-100 averaging 5.0 seconds with the weight suggested a rule of thumb power output of 300kW atfw or approx 200 atw. I am only looking for a modest increase over this as I have to drive it in traffic and so does the little woman occasionally (so a turbosmart dual may be the answer). What I want is to bring on power earlier as 4000 rpm is a bit high and it comes on extremely hard, enough to break traction in third on coarse bitumen and fourth in the wet. The Greddy should help with this. I do take this car to track days and will start sprints in it this year. Brakes (BDA slots and racebrakes.com pads front) and clutch (5 puck sprung brass) have been upgraded and the result is impressive. The tyres are 255 40 ZR 17 Expedia on the rear for road and track. I don't drag race, only watch. There is no camber adjustment which is fine for dry cornering with the very tight LSD that will lock the rear axle after a 30 degree turn in the wet at 40 kmh. I believe the camber may cause some of my straight line concerns, and the HICAS is still active but I will bracket this soon. I don't want to increase revs or change the cams and the sump is still stock until i find a spotwelder. I would suspect the oil pump remains stock and no oil cooler presently. The radiator copes well but I would assume stock as with the water pump and the fan is standard but about to be replaced with a thermofan if i find the right size single or price on twins. I believe, from another thread, the conrods are GTR items as the don't have the RB25 knob just below the gudgeon, I could have been misled too. I have now installed autospeeds intelligent IC water spray (an impressive mod from logging the intake temperatures with a high res temp probe), throttle position activated water injection (after the porsche race when detonation occured) and have a Hybrid 800HP bar and plate intercooler ready to fit. I'll be getting a BATMBL dump as well soon to bolt to the hi flow cat to give a a full 3" system before tuning. So given a realistic power figure (hey it still gets to 200kmh in the wet at the end of the main straight at Sandown and 185 on the back straight at Wakefield) suitable for at least 1 track day a month and more if possible, I want a responsive daily driver that I don't have to tyre fry to win a few traffic light combat sessions, but one that will be very strong for the next 5 years or so. Not too exciting but my days of world beating racing are over, well trying to, and i just want to have some fun. Formula ford and u2L sports sedans was fun but too close for an ageing fat bloke broken from too many rugby games.

Steve thanks, but the stock sticks stay. At the end of the day the cost of Wiseco forgies may not be that much more than GTR/GTR(N1) plus rings. Anyone with the appropriate part numbers on those?

I know the feeling, and was also handled gently until I established my car import business bonafides back in 97. After that, the door opened dramatically. No-one wanted to deal with a private individual. Anyway i just reread the article and it is a scream. Gotta get it out soon.

Rezz thanks for showing the rear pic of the stealth stovetops. I have been corrected. I like it and can't wait if a turbo is actually in the pipeline like a magazine (speed) out thinks. Gotta get the article scanned and posted.

Doing the work yourself really helps, and can be pretty satisfying, just leave the specialised stuff to the experts. Ken, your philosophy is good. I am not too keen anymore one beating the whole pack. A couple too many offs in F Ford and U2L Sports Sedans and Q'land rally champs to want to try that anymore. Just time for a little fun and make a few bucks. Hope the tuning shop works out and you don't get too many DIYers like me and looking forward to more news on the buildup.

Thanks guys I have been talking to my local Nissan parts guy, who is hooked into the international database, but he was about to go on xmas leave so i will call again tomorrow as there are 4 types available, the most expensive being those specified for the 200 Oz delivered cars with the very latest pistons being cheapest ???? R34?? The turb has been modded by rigoli and behaves very differently the stocker, but I will take a look at that wastegate hole

Karina I do my fast stuff on the track and a couple of "safe" places. I'll just reiterate that I haven't had a fine in over 10 years and have never caused an accident. I'll let you work that out yourself. I have a similar argument as Mesh stated on the standards, but I don't think they set the limits appropriately either and then put a camera up and collect revenue without evidence of it being a blackspot. One more time, if the voting majority continue to break a law it is their free will it means they do NOT agree with it. Government is there to serve the majority and the disadvantaged minorities (yes I studied politics also at Uni) and with so many ignoring a particular law then public mandate renders it unlawful or else the government is self serving and corrupt. Funky, how legal are all the mods on your machine, or is that like murder too ? Seriously if so many get fined it is a combination of the voters not agreeing with the legislation, the speeds set too low or idiots just going too fast. Can i drive fast?? Hell yeah and I've caught a 160kmh slide after aquaplaning at sandown. Maybe even I'm a pretty skilled driver but I am not mandating excessive speed for the conditions on the public roads. Most don't know what is excessive until they have a lose or accident. They certainly don't get any help during driver ed to get a license. I want an accountable government and police!!!!! I also want a thinking public who are prepared to educate themselves once in a while.

Joel sorry I wasn't forgetting you. sure the combustion chamber will be tidied up, and you have just about convinced me on the forgies but I have to evaluate the up front costs, pros, cons and long term. I need to get some more info yet, some quotes from my guy in japan who used to send me stuff when I was importing cars as well as other prices and then I can decide, but the lag issue is really grinding me down on the GTR pistons.

Steve spent 2 hours searching and trying to tie my decision making process together after chasing up Joel's research (into an early grave was one comment) but couldn't find the thread. The evidence was that if it has a knob or protusion on the rod just down from the gudgeon it is RB25det and if it doesn't, it's an RB26dett conrod. I can't substantiate this tho. I haven't got a limit here but I have to be reasonable about what i do. My brief is to build it so it won't need to be done again for a long time. So my goals are to: only slightly improve power bring power on earlier or spool up faster so around 3000rpm would be nice, have a rigoli modded stock turbo @11psi prevent detonation again and improve reliability. Whats going in at this stage: Hybrid 800hp FMIC (considering hi temp electrical conduit for the ducting as an experiment) New rings, bearings and gaskets. tidy up bores, crank, journals, and maybe chamfer BE oilholes possibly a balance if cost effective (still running factory rev limit so I'm not sure of value for money) Greddy e-manage complete with tuning boost controller, either autospeed anti wastegate creep or turbosmart 2 stage new pistons, and here the dilemma continues. Go the GTR pistons @ 8.5:1 about 120 ea (not sure if that includes rings, doubt it) and live with lagginess on the road. I'm sure it will be fine on the track. Slap in a new set of stock 9:1's (about 100 each from japan + rings) and hope the Greddy looks after it. Contemplate N1 forged (do these come in 9:1????) at a little more than GTR. Forgies, say Wiseco 9:1 87mm from 1400 with rings and pins, and the associated machining (this is looking better all of the time) so I get better driveability and maybe more durability if detonation occurs unexpectedly (I've had bad fuel before that dumped $30 worth through in 1 hour of driving, lotsa black smoke and no power and was fine after I filled up again in the wife's auto) Anyway I think i need some convincing, so all of the wise ones are welcome to advise, Warpspeed (wanna let me buy you a coffee and pick your brain?), Sydneykid, and anyone else with an experience or opinion. I have lagginess below 4000rpm but then it comes on like the proverbial sledgehammer. Through the roundabouts out here I can usually outhandle other 33's and roadbikes and the power is enough to blast back up to them but the lagginess sees them getting away just out of the turns. I'm not really interested in getting another turbo.

Agree with you there Merli. I had the pistons from japan and took them to the reco's for boring to the correct size. I honestly think the rings were just wrong and letting a lot of blowby through. Definitely recommend a catchcan though.

I put this one together in a hurry, in fact I even modded an RB30 head gasket as i couldn't get one in time to drive to Vic, and parts weren't as easy to come by then. So this build was a bit 'loose' and i left the old bearings in (80000km) but I feel the ring sent were not 0.5mm OS so had a lot of blowby. This meant that on track i could only do a 15min session and really needed to drop catch can and check oil and top up. I have exceeded that with a second session and had filled the 800ml can enough to blow oil out into the engine bay...lots and smoke everywhere. There was too much blowby to leave the drain open but I hope the engine is a bit tighter this time. BTW the RB30 gasket is so narrow between the reinforcing ring on each pot and the water jacket that after 15000 it pushed out and let combustion gas into the water, causing overheating of the engine.

This is a great thread and some very valid points. Knore is so right, I would rather be pedalling a GTR myself. At my last track outing in the belting rain the setup on my R33 GTSt left me understeering into corners, oversteering out of corners, wheelspinning through third and wheelspinning in fourth up to 180kmh if I used full throttle over 4000rpm. The GTR's out there were kicking ass and getting oversteer for the fun of it, especially a nice 32. Why I haven't upgraded, even to a 32 GTR is because to have a bit of fun, you have to be so much more committed and prepared to go heaps faster. If it comes unstuck you must expect to wear it big time and anything less is a bonus. So I am now trying to enjoy a bit of track time without going fast enough to get into real trouble, and 200kmh in the wet at Sandown was good enough at this stage without electronic safety aids. Seriously though, 220-250rwkw is more than enough on the street. I still get wheelspin at various times in 3rd especially if the road surface is coarse. If you have no experience in a hard running car then build up slowly and spend some of that cash on driver training like at Driver Dynamics at Tulla (Yo ScottieB...free plug). The boost will kill you if you aren't prepared. PM me if you want to discuss my experience and mods and where I am working to now.

OK here is the bearing (17) and the journal on the conrod (12) and a piston lightly cracked (24) and one I prepared earlier and drove for 2500km (28)

Just the evidence suggests that i don't need to with the lower compression ratio, so I can spend that money on the Greddy and tuning. Still have a lotta bucks to spend and value for money is the key. I already have enough power for the track and this round of mods will give me more again, which may not lower lap times dramatically. More power means more speed and earlier braking so other components will have to work even harder. I just need reliability now and earlier boost.

Waffor are yous peoples doing on here at that hour of the morning? Some pretty good stories. I'm onto my second set of pistons in 30000km. I was out tuning my intercooler (stock) waterspray and running 11psi on the rigoli modded turbo which gives me wheelspin in third at 100 in the dry and 180 in fourth in the wet. It was 34 degrees and I had a line of traffic in front on a long straight and a porsche 996 turbo behind. Naturally we pulled out at the same time so I floored it in third and he was going backwards, pulled fourth and still losing him then a couple of clearly audible detonations....which would have been pistons 1 and 5. Then a coupla days later I discovered I had forgotten to check the oil, which I lose a fair bit to the catch can with a manual return valve. About 1.5 litres down and ran a big end bearing on #3 which is why I pulled the engine down to discover 2 cracked pistons. Well at least I beat the porsche and now get to buy GTR pistons (8.5:1)

Gordo quite possibly the folks down here are just lashing out in protest and doing stupid things on the roads. Perhaps (even worse) they think they are safe and warm and cuddly because the Govt is doing SO MUCH to keep them safe so they don't have to give a rats A**E about being sensible. Maybe, and I'll probably go with this, the slightly higher speed is enoough to keep the mind alert, even over the H..U..G..E distances in Qld, so they don't run off the road or into others. A result of maximum speeds being unlawfully legislated in a state in the US meant there was no max limit on one highway in particular. The result???? Courtesy!! People were expecting others to come through fast so they pulled over into the slow lane to let them through. Even the faster drivers were not going that much faster anyway but gave the slower drivers plenty of room also. The road toll achieved a modern low against all of the doomsayers whining and insurance premiums went down due to less accidents. Well how about that. Their limit is now 120kmh (whatever that is in Miles).