GTRgeoff

I would suggest you would require one injector per runner in the manifold for equal delivery, and you could result in over delivery of water and run the risk of water buildup if you had a fault, resulting in hydrostatic lock and broken bits next time you start up. Mine is plumbed into the pipe running up from the intercooler, before the crossover pipe which should give sufficient time for 'mixing' before the throttle and plenum. Once installed you just keep an eye on water levels. With the IC spray and the injection it used about half of the std R33 windscreen wiper res per week. Each operated off a different motor and control circuit.

Late 60's F1 cars were set up with differing ramp angles on accelerate and trail for exactly that kind of handling.

Terry now your scaring people off with this Con guy and his german uberweapon, or is it me?

Truth be told, the only way you will find out is to try it. Then you can laugh in their faces. I'll bet most have never tried a cheap and cheerful approach. A fully mapped system is something again but I fail to see the value of over $1K unless say you had done enough to boost to 30+psi, so it depends really. At least you can run it on the road, legally, unlike NOS. Whenever I install something new I always attempt to quantify the result, so I know I'm not BS'ing later. With the intercooler water spray, on a 37 deg day I achieved an average of 17 deg lower intake temp after the intercooler AND an average of 30 seconds to drop the temp off boost to 28 degrees where the temp hovered about 38-42 degrees without and jumped to over 60 on boost at 9psi. While my temp probe is not located to gather post water injection temps the reality was an increase to 11psi at the same ignition advance (I don't remember how much I had that time, about 14 deg) which equates to a nice little power jump for next to nothing. Now I have installed an 800hp FMIC I'll continue to analyze the value of water spray/injection. Try it and see is all I can say. Check out Autospeed for their views and articles. The water spray I use is the spraying systems one from their DIT IC water spray article, about $40 for all the bits.

unfortunately I don't have a choice of the weather when I race (only sprints) so the added advantage is too great to ignore. Sounds like a crap workshop if they think you HAVE to run 30 psi to make it worthwile. As with everything I think the main advice would be IT DEPENDS.....

RedLine you gonna donate them?

Hell sorry man....I just spent the morning arguing with people about explosive ords safety compliance and they were not listening and then i bite your head off for no reason. I apologise. I run both FMIC water spray and water injection using the spraying systems water atomiser nozzles. The spray is so fine that it almost won't reach the ground on a warm day. As i said it is post intercooler and I do this because I don't want it to settle out in the cooler, but it is on a rising pipe so if it decides to fail and continue running at idle it will run down to the cooler. The smaller pipe maintains a higher velocity that doesn't allow time to settle on the way to the plenum. You can put it in at the plenum but doesn't (may not) allow sufficient mixing in my view. Really it doesn't have to be too complex and the price of some of these systems is an absolute rort. My problem was the lack of airflow over the cooler even with the water spray probably brought on the detonation but had I had water injection at the time I would have maybe prevented the detonation. Too late now though

I was uncertain if they did anything other than ratio style (eg not 1:1) so sounds like you got a sale. PM to follow

Real water injection is atomised water injected into the air stream and entering the combustion chambers. I could give you a post-graduate engineering dissertation on the cause and effect of atomised water and the suppression of detonation, but since you didn't read my post I won't waste my effort. There are plenty of threads on here with equally qualified/experienced individuals who have discussed it at length. Some actual users and designer/builder of their systems... not mates of. Try a search. Cost would be less than $100 (Yes $100) for a suitable setup if you did it yourself. Anything more is an absolute ripoff (sorry S14Drift!) I have applied it to 2 cars thus far, one of which was a Lynx with oxygen injection at 60 psi into the free air stream (chemical supercharging), extra injector and water injection to supress detonation and it managed 7s 0-100kmh down from 10s. My underlying point though was if you tune too close to the limit, even with protection systems, prepare to spend money rebuilding. In my case new forged pistons, GTR rods and fuel pump, balance and a few extras as well as a PFC for even more tuning margin.

2 spaces left on Sunday...anyone going to bring a GTR to round out the group?

Perhaps if they were to satisfy us with underdriven/lightened pulleys and forgo the balancer we would be happy? Thanks for the great discussion guys. Heaps more interesting than the weapons engineering I'm stuck with now.

I have mine running with a super fine mist nozzle post intercooler. It is throttle position activated and runs off one of the wiper motors. As i only had detonation near full throttle I didn't see a need for anything more complex. It allowed me to start to run 12psi with my modified (stock) turbo when previously I was stuck with 9. Unfortunately I didn't have it on in time to save 2 broken pistons incurred when playing tag with a porsche turbo on a hot day. Had the FMIC water spray on but when I pulled in tight into his slipstream at about 170kmh at full throttle I had a little detonation and now about $3K later I nearly have the rebuild finished.

Don't want to run anything stickier than 245 40 ZR17 pirelli P6000...too expensive. (255 on rear) I have a set of adjustable caster rods now so I'll see what effect that has.

Thats essentially the problem I have in the wet. Not an issue in the dry. At least allows me to practice compression slides in the wet

Mine isn't normal but it came in that way. Great in the dry, heaps of grip. In the wet it pushes massive understeer then massive oversteer. I can turn about 30 degree angle and it will lock and start to spin both wheels in the wet at really gentle throttle application.

Remove the front trim panel in the boot and there it is on the left under the parcel shelf (I have 2 coupes). The std batt is tiny and needs regular replacement with a sealed and vented via hose model to remain legal.

Then get a propane or butane torch and gently 'melt' the paint in if you use the hi temp paint as it will be lost to wheel cleaning agents and washing unless heat cured. You could also cover all the important stuff to stop overspray. Curing this way (similar to baking in a paint oven) brings on a glossier finish.

Ronin I've seen a few pads coming out in the pits at bathurst working for brad jones and they look a lot worse. I wouldn't be too worried about those at all. Seen some beauties coming out of trucks when I was swinging spanners on them too. Keen to hear all about the endless pads as well so keep us posted. Lauren, blue is a beautiful colour for discs sound like great pads.

No worries, happy to cod when you know the reg type.

B-Man if the malpassi is rising rate then I'll take it.

Hey, should be fun. RWDTurbo are considering an outing to this event. See you all there. I'll just whore between groups.

Rianto Book me in mate. I've been wanting to get to one of these. Any group is fine. Kev, having a BBQ with ScottieB tomorrow (RWDTurbo), if that's who's car your planning for the guest to thrash want I should keep it a secret?

I think the Dutton rally uses avalon, good way to find out.....enter the rally.

First time at the Island in this car for me and only receiving the block back next week so the pressure is on.

Only once the engine is in and the wife fed