GTRgeoff

Hoping to see you out there Snowman. Currently getting the machine work done with forgies, GTR rods, balance and O ring with a new monster FMIC, waterspray and water injection. Got the adjustable caster rods in, a GTR fuel pump that has produced 314rwkw, about to dump the rear steering and contemplating whether or not to buy food or spend it on bushes for adjusting camber, pineapples and maybe adjustable sway bars. Soon will get the Apexi PFC and tune for extra redline and toulene mix. Hell...I better perform now. Last hit out I replaced all of the discs with slots on the front and plain rear, racebrakes.com pads, motul brake fluid to prevent fade....god the list just goes on but the rush is enormous.

I actually put the ultimates on the wifes auto '33 a couple of years ago and I find them soft and initially very bitey but without any pedal feel as you increase pressure. Then if you overheat them they feel blurgh...as though they aren't slowing you down at all even after they cool down. They come back over a week or so though to being a very ordinary pad. Talk to racebrakes...they would have delivered by now and the pedal feel is great with a very progressive bite as you increase pedal and have never given me worries. I brake later and harder with absolute confidence on the road and track. I asked for a very specific performance envelope and they delivered and then some. They actually run a HQ as well for fun so use their own product. Silent as well

M-spec for me please. Evo magazine in GB rated it better than the TT 911 AWD they love so much after slagging V-spec's that didn't like their roads. Said it was outpacing it by 20kmh on one crest curve combo and felt like it had more to give with the flash ripple control suspension MMMMMmmmmmmmm

A few comments. The metal kings will wear out your discs if you are hoofing it. You don't have to machine and usually it is better to bed in a set of pads on used discs. When you bed in, it is a process of slowing several times from 80-20 or 100-40 or even better 120-40 without stopping at all over half a dozen applications. I do 200-40 to bed mine in as this gives an even application of the pad material to the disc. If you brake to a stop you can change the disc properties and create cementite spots that will feel like a warp but is felt like a shimmy in the pedal. If you have this now try to machine out but it is usually unsuccessful and needs replacement pads.

Try Bozz. He had a half cut and was selling stuff.

http://www.racebrakes.com.au/ I cannot recommend these enough. You will think you had no brakes before, just ask for proper bedding in instructions. About $130 for the front axle. Gotta do rear soon.

Hoping the engine is rebuilt by then. Sounds like a good excuse to get out and run it in. Last hit out before my spinal injection takes me out for a while.

Thanks Jay...oops

Good advice Chris. I'm still looking for a keenly priced boreguage myself to check the dims right through the bore. Should never have trusted that guy in canberra. Explains a lot though. Surprised I made the power I did. These spec sheets from Arias should help.

No try 1480kg @ 155kW = 9.55kW/kg vs 1360kg @ 187kW = 7.27kW/kg which means rolling response will suffer. It has an advantage in the AWD which is lost to the lower power and higher weight. Even if it was 1360 it still has a large power disadvantage. Not everyone really gives a rats about the drag time or 0-100 tho. The bluey will be a great allrounder with a great confidence building AWD system that will terrorise GTST's in the wet. Fantastic everyday car. I will guarantee that it will stink on the track untill modified a little cos of the doughy suspension, but not everyone wants to come and play there either.

I was told of these suppliers of great pistons and even contacted some, with bugger all response. The Rocket Arias pistons were delivered in a couple of days and were about 20-30 bucks for postage. Definitely worth a little extra for no runaround. I have no issue with guys online trying to do a little extra to help others, but it may be an unreliable solution. Talk to the guys at Rocket and ask what sizes they have but definitely wait until you have pulled the engine apart and know what you need. I first rebuilt mine and had trouble with massive blowby. My reco-er said 0.5mm OS and I was suspecting the rings were not right. a few days ago i decided to buff up the worst broken piston that I had kept and found an 05 on the top under all of the crud from driving 2500 km on 4 broken slugs. Yep they were already OS 0.5mm and the dumb bastard got the same ones and fitted them up when the bore was badly scored. Point is - check the top of your pistons yourself and see if there is 00, 05, 10 or any other numbers there.

I got 4 0.5mm (20 thou) os 25 pistons that I can't find cracks on the lands. the other 2 are buggered. C'mon though Rocket http://www.rocketindustries.com.au/ sell Arias forged with rings and floating pins for 1300 delivered. May save a rebuild.

Just been through this for the 25. Rocket http://www.rocketindustries.com.au/ sell Arias forged for $1300 delivered in about 2 days with rings, floating pins and clips with most sizes on the shelf. I got 1.0mm or 40 thou OS that fast and they are well recommended. Comes complete with sizing info for the builder. I know the GTR pistons are exactly the same diameter (86mm std) and configuration but lower CR (8.5:1 vs 9:1 in 25t) and was considering the stock nissan GTR ones which work out to $120 ea + rings (about $250) so almost the same price. I stuck with std CR due to driveability and only one big turbo etc. Nissan Oz can get them in for you in about a month. They also have on the shelf belt kits etc as well as gasket kits available either on shelf or order. Hope you find a good builder and get the full balance etc. Don't forget bearings either. Apparently RB30 will fit and are cheaper. Sydneykid advised of the RB30 bearings. I have been told the mains are good but the BE's are weak and have to confirm this with "the 'kid"

For compliance I used, if I can remember, Raj and some other company. No the brain isn't so good now. It's been a few years. Getting owned by the missus is not so bad, mine likes to give it a bit occassionally The Blueys drama is weight but the AWD helps out on the standing start. Deano's posted site has a number of errors, quoting the auto weight for the 'line (33) when the manual is 1360kg but the manual time 0-100, as a stock auto won't do that. Th bluey is really fat and down a lot on power so that accounts for the higher speed deficit. I would suggest that on Oz fuel that would be accurate for 0-100 for the line, but probably G-Teched which tends to the low side of innaccurate. I now hover around 5 flat but the suspension is all for track, and dry at that. Been flogged merciless by an almost stock 33 in the wet at sandown in the corners but smoked him on the straights. In the dry would be different with the short slip diff and aggressive suspension. What it has taught me is that not all sprints are dry, so I need to have a more moderate setup that i can modify for different conditions. Deano, thanks for posting that site link. By wits I mean the somewhat older term as referred to in this dictionary http://dictionary.reference.com/search?q=wit Don't take it the wrong way. I have a fair education and a lot of experience as a mechanic and with imports, but the engineer in me gets a little peaked when i see unsubstantiated figures peddled without support. I had to know these things automatically so when asked by customers I was able to answer so i always refer to the original factory specs. locASH, sorry about the hijack, but you should be starting to get an opinion of the bluey by now and all I can recommend is get one, just a manual if possible.

Suit myself? I generally do. No drags for me unless it involves the rolling start from the corner entering the straight. I don't mind, any straight throughout the lap of the track will do. I'm actually pretty envious that you've got a manual. The only manuals I had were already sold so I had to be nice to them...dammit.

can easily test by getting some 10cm lengths of wool and taping them down in the region you are interested. Autospeed has some examples. Someone with a digicam wanna try and post the pics?

Bugger, time to get out of here and up to Qld with Gordo. We're becoming South Australia.

The auto version that we tested unfortunately had a badly slipping trans, but from seat-of-the-pants experience we'd suggest the car to normally be a mid-8 second 0-100km/h car. However, its performance times have been quoted as 7.4 seconds for the 0-100 and 15.4 seconds over the quarter. Without the fluid coupling, the manual versions cut these times to highly respectable 6.2 and 14.5 seconds respectively (remember that's on Japanese grade fuel). Meanwhile the 33 is quoted at flat 6 and having imported these things for a while, I'll go along with that. So if you have no mechanical sympathy then do your 7 grand launches and lunch you clutch and box for 6.2's if you can actually get a manual. The numbers speak for themselves. Back on topic though, I like them, but they won't really bother a skyline too much until it gets wet. Crap that WRX's are even a stockie will eat me in a straight line in the wet, and I get wheelspin at 180 in fourth in the wet.

I believe the only changes to the 15 year rule should be to allow only cars that are between 10-15 years in a rolling window, are inspected and meet roadworthy and have a specific minimum power to weight ratio or unique nature .

So many misguided thoughts here, but I refuse to battle wits with those who are unarmed. Fact: won't beat a stock man skyline as standard. Fact: not as quick as the same years WRX but mostly due to handling. Fact: very few with manual gearbox. Fact: with SR20DET and the Attessa they are very responsive to mods. Worth buying, then debadge

Try the bluebirds australia site. OK sorry. Nice sleeper to annoy the wrx crew with some mods...and it's a nissan so doesn't have the idiotic boxer engine that sounds like a mower. Std handling is a bit doughy so give that a tweak and should be nice.

Guys, I'm looking into the VASS system to gain accreditation for vehicle safety and Mod inspections (mech eng with mechanic background) to determine once and for all what is legal and what is not. And to protect myself against these flogs because the first thing I will do is inspect their vehicles if pulled over for a roadside check and mine is legal. I won't start the war until I'm clean tho.

Thanks strutto, I was talking about the cuts. Any clear acrylic shouls seal them satisfactorily. Don't know what the laws regarding them are tho

Dammit. Tell she looks great now. I lost 3 kilos once but it got friends and came back to live

Just Jap for the S badge for $25 or so. Should be a week in the Pit for unauthorised use of GTR badging