Bass Junky

Just adjusted idle screw and shes all good now.

Speed Technology/EFI Hardware in Mitcham fitted them. Craig (ex-Genesis) tuned it up on the F1 Performance dyno in Blackburn. Craig tuned my PowerFC about 6 months prior. BASS OUT

Okay, power we were making, 200 kW Power now making, 200kW peak, but lower all the way through. Boost, 11psi. Towards the top of the range, the boost drops 1psi, running powerFC boost control kit. AFR, coming down to 12:1, had to add fuel in some places to stop pinging. Using standard Turbs, I wasn't keen on turning it up. Didn't think of using less boost. With the cam gear, to be honest, we didn't try at 0 degrees (we were sick of adjusting it!!) but it was harder to stop pinging at 4, made truck loads less power at 2 degrees advanced and 2 degrees was easier to tune at. Torque was just down everywhere.... Damn thing is going to make me high flow the turbo now. Stupid cars. It is shite on cold starts too, it will start okay, but as soon as I touch the throttle, it wont settle back down and hunts like a pig. I'll get that sorted how?? BASS OUT

I do that all the tme Matt. I jump out walk off, realise that the lights are on and have to go back and look like a nufty and switch them off!!

More Boost. Use 2nd more than first!!!

Hypertech are good by all accounts, but not many people have been tuned there, because they are quite expensive and have a long waiting list of customers with deep pockets who need their cars tuned. They are technically very good, and Arnold is great to talk to, but they have to pay off their $2 million investment somehow! BASS OUT

I want to kill myself.

Already had the adj pulley on the exhaust cam anyway.

Starwars "Sk please help, you're my only hope"

And a lump idle.

OH yeah, Heap's deeper exhaust note now though!!

Can somebody please buy me some food. I'm broke and slow.

Cams, $840 delivered Fitting including major service, cam belt, water pump etc. $1200 Tune $300 Therefore, about $2340 wasted, but I needed the service anyway, so I guess only $1240 wasted..... But when the high flow goes on, maybe not wasted.

Cams in RB25DET, R34 GTT Hey Guys. Just had the cams fitted, tuned and the like. They're Tomei Poncams B, 260 duration, 9.15 lift.g Made no extra power, all it did was drop the power through 95% of the power band by about 10kW, cost me three hours of my life, and money for the Cams, Install and tune. Bottom line, don’t do it. However, we did play with the adj cam gear on the exhaust cam, at 4 degrees retard, was too close to the edge, 2 degree advance, dropped 30 kw, at 2 degrees retard made reasonable power. I have a straighter graph, not as much of a fat curve as before. Bigger drop in torque at the 3500 to 4500 range than before. All in all, a disappointing experience. BUT, when the turbo goes on, we expect to make much better power than with stock cams. Graphs to come. BASS OUT

I'm currently designing a plate to go on the back of the pulley to have a play with it. Will be from routed aluminum and will have some sort of marking on it. Price to come, but it wont be a lot.

As per e-mail, I'm after the AFM to Turbo duct, also the passenger side outer window seal.

Yeah but what I mean is if you don't have an EBC. Half boost, half open wastegate. Some EBC will hold the gate shut until required, others simply modulate max boot.

Maybe that's the next BASS JUNKY INC part group buy??? BASS OUT

Hey guys. I'm having the cams fitted to my R34 GTT right now, and I've just been to have a look at it all going together. What I did see and what made me very interested, is that the standard VVT Inlet cam gear is actually adjustable from the factory. However, it is only adjustable on the back of the gear, not the front. My questions, is do you think I should make up the adapter to make it adjustable from the front and have a play on the Dyno?? BASS OUT

At half boost, your wastegate is open half way (EBC dependent) The idea is less turbulance with the two streams of gas mixing right up near the wheel.

I'm in 100% Put me down as participant number 1

The Getaway.

Hey ppls. Well, I've heard little from the thread and have only received one payment (Thanks Yogi) so far. BUT. I think this is becuase I haven't yet been able to show you a sample. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=74957 This is why. Troy who has already made the jig to do the fabricating has been building his new business, so I'm just waiting on him to finish it and get set up. This is the most important thing to him right now, and that's fair enough. He's a great asset to this club so I'm not going to rush him to do them. He has, however, promised that these ducts will be the first cam off the rank once he is set up. I will extend the cut off date once Troy is set up, and that way, I can get a prototype made up to show to you guys, and I can get Jager's duct back to him. In the meantime, if anybody has an R33 duct lying around unused and not going to be used again, please let me know, as I'd love to get Jager's back to him as quickly as possible. Anyway, thanks for your patience. BASS OUT

Looking good Troy.

Hey ppls. My 260 degree Poncams are going in early next week, and I had a quick look at the instructions, although they are in Japanese, I can quite clearly understand that they instruct me to block up the hole in the BOV. Remember the mod where you drill a screw into the BOV face which "pre pressurises" the chamber to give quicker response or something? Well, the instructions in the package definently tell me to do that mod. I had already done it previously, and then removed it because the car was a bit jerky with it. So, my question is, why when installing a set of cams, would the manufacturer instruct me to perform this mod.......??? Anyone? BASS OUT