ARTZ

you might find this interesting Mark.. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1817829 300v is expensive stuff and doesnt last as long, id stick with a X-oil at nearly half the price but up to you

lol, i thought my questions were silly.. its a budget way to make it lock mate.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/164288-diydiff-shimming-for-r33-gtst/page__st__160__p__5856155__hl__shimming__fromsearch__1#entry5856155

i can get a hks 38mm for a good price.. Plus the garrett wheel is almost identical in size so I dont think dynamics should change too much..add to that the ex gate should help hold boost through to redline and theoretically it should rev higher and maintain the same low down performance i dunno but im just so damn curious...lol housing 150$ gate 150$ fab a dump will be piss easy cause its a vband..50 to 100$.. If it got 20kw xtra and didnt fall over at 6k id be stoked...

you can get the 10cm housing to fit a gt30 core as well, im very tempted to replace my 21u housing to see how much difference it will make.. What do you think it would get, extra 15kw maybe? Would a 38mm gate be big enough on a rb25

@ rolls the 10cm is .73, its the same as the T67 rear housing so it will definatly hold to redline and beyond.. It would be my choice if you wanted to upgrade on a 2.5l, an 8cm would be about the same size as the housing you have now, so I dont think it would be worth the efort changing it.. Remembering these ar ex gate as well... Or are we talking SR here ?

i say replace with a budget cannon off fleabay..keep this one to clear noise defects should you get any.. Or just buy a good quality 3 inch muffler and never have a problem

here rolls Scott id say tdo6, t67 is nice but when you consider how the rest of the driveline is going to handle the power and then remember your on a budget the dream fades

I have no idea what your talking about let alone whats wrong with your car..

yes and no..having a big exhaust with a small end wouldnt be as bad as your whole system to small..If The whole pipe has time to fill up with exhaust gas, then by the time it has to force through the restriction at the end your revs and therefor pressure is up to push it through..it could no doubt cap your top end somewhat though Doesnt the factory WG run off the intake pipe? I cant remember but mine is connected to the inlet manifold now..u think would it be any better off the hot pipe? yeah i think a new muffler would be an eaiser way to go about it..I looked at mine today and thought stuff that

yeah the turbo seems to hold boost well from 3-6k so which nipple does the WG run off, the manifold one or the hot pipe one.. do you know if its a 20psi actuator..

what do they call them installing this is intially going to affect your toe in as well isnt it?

yeah understandable 65mm is 2.5 inch so its way off damn nearly 5psi drop through the cooler.. whats pressure WG do you have, or is it EBC . might have to rig a nipple up in mine for curiosity sake..

that would be awesome, i'll show you some nice roads as well

just had a look in mine cause its a fujitsibo too and had same restrictor, though it is about 70-75mm so about 3inch anyway, which is good for at least 300kw it seems, so dont think its a problem in my case..rest of my system is 90mm so a small restriction at the end shouldn,t upset it any more than the cat would stick your hand in there Jeff until it touches the sides then measure across your hand how wide it is..if your exhaust is 90mm (3.5 inch) id say its at least 70mm at the restrictor which should flow plenty for your power mate it may not be worth the effort..

of course you should cover it..just an old clean shirt or something will do did you soak your engine in degreaser before you washed it..? just get a few of those 2$ cans from supercheap and totally soak it especially the greasy bits then drive to the car wash and hose it..you may need to do it a few times though for good results..

yeah sorry that wont be happening... Its just too much turbo for a stock manifold..

work for a courier mob..rack up about 80,000km a year..

i just called it a pintle cause i didnt know what else to call it..

yeah pressure washing is fine, do this first. But for real results you have to get in there with a few cans of degreaser and a rag and scrub at the build up..then pressure wash again, just dont hold the gun to close.. soak it with truck wash or degreaser first and it will be fine dont expect instant results..do it once, twice three times and then it will start to look great

but a healthy engine wont have a lot of carbon build up..if there is excess soot in your oil then it could just be there is excess carbon in your system and your engine (or tune) isn't healthy.. just because your oil is running black doesn't always just mean it is good at cleaning your engine it may just mean your engine is unnecessarily dirty.. in which case you have bigger problems than oil also if your oil is carrying around all that carbon and your not changing it it is is just moving carbon around your engine in which case you would be better off if it wasn't collecting it so much.. it is easy (and dare I say a bit of a cop out) to say just change your oil all the time and you wont have a problem. But really, who wants to change their oil all the time, in this age of modern synthetics that have been proven to run 50,000kms without fail why just resort to these old fashion ideals and not think there may be another way.. sure you can buy a cheap oil and change it every 2000kms..or you could buy a better oil and change it every 5000kms..it probably doesn't make a whole lot of difference either way..but buying top dollar race oils for a street car is pointless..just like buying 20$ repco brand oil is silly if you are pushing the limits of your engine..

yeah..like what tighten the chassis bolts, replace sump plug washer..half that stuff is bullshit really..I have never replaced a sumpplug washer and have never had a leak cause i dont overtighten it.. If your car is running rough it doesnt need tuning, most likely there is a dirty sensor somewhere and that is all, most of these dealership mechanic muppets dont even know that and try tuning your car and end up doin more damage than good.. I mean i have got my car back with sump plugs and oil filters so tight i needed a breaker bar to get them, a leaky radiator, wiper blades that were hanging off, like you said earlier they are half stoned dimwits on a wage that couldnt care less and i would rather fix it myself than spend time chasing up their f**kups I did 500,000kms with my last car and only ever got ripped of by workshops that couldnt fix problems i had and ended up fixing myself..One time i spent 500$ getting my gas system serviced and my car tuned with all sorts of diagnostic equipment that never fixed the problem. When all it needed in the end was new spark plug leads... If your car is running bad 99% of the time it will be either..spark plugs or leads or dirty oil/air filters.. if it is neither of these it may actually have a mechanical problem..but unlikely..

fark man..so did you dump his body in the river or the bushes.. I dont think that little pintle does anything, mine (sards) dont even touch and there is no rubber anymore..but wether or not its ok ,i dont know

exactly and it doesn't make a difference when you go to trade it in with 150,000kms on it they offer you the same crap money if its factory serviced or not.. talking to another guy today with 500,000+ on his lpg v6 rodeo, never had a problem except for an alternator, even mechanic couldn't believe it was true, asked who serviced it and he does it himself..I kind of see a pattern here, those of us that self service and have some basic mechanical knowledge or have a a very good friend or relative for a mechanic oddly never have a problem with their cars.. those that dont are always complaining that something wrong . new cars are very well built and rarely ever need anything other than plugs/oil/filters if treated right..there is no need for a mechanic to actually have to tune anything I will have to double check with him as to if it was his decision not to get the timing belt done but he didnt say anything about them asking him..

yeah it looked like a prick of a job , thats why i didn't bother..but good on you, got it up and running pretty quick.. surprised your using the stock TB, thought you would've gone bigger.. good results anyway, I would get one myself if it would low mount happily the power looks awesome on paper.....