IM-32-FK

I was wondering how much the OEM steel bonnets weigh on non-gtr skylines bonnets on the GTT weigh vs how much the carbon fibre bonnets weigh. I remember my 32 gtr bonnet being so light you can lift it up with one pinky finger. Looking to get that mad weight reduction.

I got my illuminated nice and white. here’s the eBay link to the bulbs I bought and put into the climate control https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F161839873383 they look like this And they use those leds(forgot what size they were though)

Hey all, The 34 OEM floor mats I got keep coming off the slot it goes into to hold it in place. Every time I drive it , I have to put it back into place sometimes multiple times and it’s annoying as heck. Am I missing something here? Anyone else have this problem and how did you resolve it?

I just had a look on my gtt and it eventually goes to your charcoal canister. Here’s pics from mine (hose goes underneath the crossover pipe)

Anyway, I got the problem fixed a while back and thought I might post the solution here just in case someone runs into the same problem in the future. - I changed my spark plugs from ngk bcpr7es -8 to ngk bcpr6es -8 . I’m running 12psi boost on rb25det neo so I had the wrong ones in there. (Bcpr7es -8 is used when running from 12-19psi) - I changed all my coil packs from OEM to spitfire - I cleaned the inside of the boost solenoid with contact/electrical cleaner. Black soot came out of it. - I cleaned the inside of the air flow meter (AFM) with contact cleaner as well. There was ALOT of black soot residue in there. I had to use half a can to get all of it out (make sure you wipe the inside and the mesh netting too to get all of it out but don’t touch the sensor thingy in the middle of it with the cloth) I don’t know which one solved the problem but it was one of them.

Function is I want to keep oil out of my intake and intercooler piping! So why isnt it good for them to be vented to atmosphere? All I can think about is that will be decrease pressure and cause a vacuum leak. also by 2L do you mean a 2L catch can container? Does it really matter how much volume the catch can could hold, besides having to drain the oil less frequently with bigger catch cans?Thanks

Hey all I’ve recently decided to install a catch can and want to know if the setup I marked in the picture below is correct. So pretty much you just “bridge” the catch can between hose that goes from pre turbo pipe to the rocker cover? Which catch can is also better - the baffled ones without the little air filter on top of it or the ones with the little air filter on top of it? is a three port catch can really necessary? Because all it does is keep the oil out of the little hose that goes between both rocker covers? If i do go three port, is the setup marked on the pic correct? finally, does anybody know the size of the rb25det rocker cover breather hose fitting in case I need to change the fitting on the catch can to match the rocker cover fitting. Thanks

Everyone’s diagnosis to every problem is always ‘unplug your afm’ If your skyline won’t rev past 2500-3500 then that’s the problem with the afm. It’s either dead or dirty af inside. I have a GTT as well but never had your problem with mine, but my dads FG xr6 problem had the same problem. Would randomly cut out, especially if you revved it harder than usual. Turns out it was the fuel filter. He hadn’t changed it in over a decade.

Hey all, im planning on cleaning the interior to my car and want some perspective in which order I should clean it. here is the things I want to clean - odour and mould eliminator spray (the one you spray into the air vents) - change the cabin air filter/pollen filter -steam clean the interior seats carpet and door trims and roof which is the best order to clean the interior doing these things. thank you

Hey all ive got a yellow 34 and I was wondering what are some of the best colours that will go good with calipers. I was thinking red but I don’t want my car to look too colourful and black is a bit too low profile. just after some personal opinions thank you

hey all, I’m boosting 12-13 psi on my stock op6 turbo. I replaced my leaking t3 flange gasket with a OEM Nissan gasket but it got my wondering if I should of gone aftermarket gasket instead. I’m talking about the gasket that goes between the exhaust manifold and the turbo compressor housing, the rectangle shaped one. can the genuine Nissan t3 gaskets take increased pressure levels without giving way? thanks

But what’s the advantage of having a high pressure in your water lines though?

Hey all, ive got a mishimoto radiator cap that is rated to 1.3 bar. The thing is whenever i replace it with my stock radiator cap( think it’s rated to 0.9 or 1.1 bar) I find a water hose/pipe leaking from somewhere. so I have to ask if you use a radiator cap that is rated for higher psi , does this mean it builds more water pressure from the water lines and hoses? Or is it just a coincidence that whenever I put the 1.3 bar mishimoto radiator cap on, I eventually get a water line hose cracking open and giving way? i was going to Nissan spare parts today but they are closed during the holidays. Can I just wrap the water leak on the hose with that stretchy silicon tape for the time being? thanks

Hey all, i want to purchase bbs rs meshies for my coupe r34 gtt and I was wondering what dimensions and offsets are for the perfect fit with the rim being in line with the guard and quarter panel, if not I don’t mind it sticking out a bit. Either 18 or 19 inch with low profiles maybe 245/255 and 35/40 . I had em on my car before and had to use 15mm spacers to clear the front brakes and it stuck out maybe 5-10mm outside the front guard but the backs didn’t need spacers to clear the calipers but the rim sat inside the quarter panel maybe 15-20mm. i pretty much want them to sit in line with the guards or out a tiny bit can anyone please help me out I’m not good with offsets and rim measurements thank you

Yeh I looked it up and it is a single blitz solenoid. But it doesn’t matter, it was on the car when I bought it 5 years ago , so I don’t think it’s an issue. Also I looked at a couple of videos and the connections seem right( one end to turbine housing and the other to the wastegate actuator.)

Ok I labeled the image but I don’t understand what you meant when saying powered and unpowered . Also there are no t pieces or any other connectors on the hoses that go anywhere else , they just connected from one end to the other

I just had a look at it and took the blitz dual sbc electronic boost controller solenoid off. I blew into the solenoid and I can feel the air escaping from the other end. Also on the solenoid, the plastic nipple was connected to the actuator and the metal nipple is connected to a nipple on the turbo elbow. The hose coming from the intake/bov return is blocked off. There are no T piece connectors or anything like that. Is it set up correctly? I also blew into the vacuum hoses and don’t they feel blocked as I can feel the air escaping from the other end. also on my previous post I meant to say “ it revs out CLEANLY up until 0.38 bar and 3000ish rpm” also could the problem be the AFM? it was sitting on my garage shelf for a year and a half a lot of dust could’ve settled in it which could be causing problems. What product do you use to clean AFM’s? Carby cleaner?

I guess I’ll have to go take it back to him to get it sorted with no extra charge. The winding grinding noise is so loud that I can tell it’s not a normal sound the clutch should make. I didn’t leave it in gear or release the clutch pedal when it makes the sound, I quickly put it in neutral with the rev limit, it revs out cleaning up until it reaches 3000ish and around 0.38 bar, when won’t rev past that.

After nearly 2 years, I finally got my car “running”. January 2018 I blew my gearbox and didn’t bother getting it replaced because I went overseas for over a year and I just come back last July. So a couple of weeks ago I got my car back from the mechanic. i got the clutch and gearbox replaced. It’s a R34 GTT and I got the pull type gearbox and a brand new exedy heavy duty clutch. I had also got a few things done in the engine bay such as re sealing the rocker\valve cover and changing a couple of turbo gaskets and IACV gasket. The first problem is when the clutch pedal is pressed down, it sometimes makes this loud winding/grinding noise. It only makes the sound when I’m stationary. So I put it in gear and as the pedal is pressed down, a loud noise comes from the transmission. When I take it out of gear and put it back to neutral, the sound goes away. It doesn’t do this all the time, but I realised when I cold start the car it does it a lot. After driving for ten mins or so it seems to go away (can’t say for sure though didn’t drive it for more than 30 mins). Like it said, it makes this sound when the clutch pedal is pressed down only and while stationary. I put Lightweight Shockproof oil in the gearbox. The other problem is the car won’t rev past 3000rpm and around 0.38 bar which is about 5psi ish. The car would normally run 12psi. It’s a r34 rb25det neo op6 stock turbo and I got a power fc tune. I think it’s important to note that the engine got started for the first time in nearly 2 years a couple of weeks back. When in neutral the car would rev past 3000. Also the screen on my power fc hand controller won’t turn on anymore but the buttons still light up. Unplugging and plugging it back in didn’t change anything. I get a feeling the car is in limp mode only because the boost is cutting out around stock factory psi levels but I could be wrong. Any help would be appreciated I really want to drive my car again!! Thank you

Is the correct dimension 6cm diameter , 3.1cm height and 32mm thread or 5.7cm diameter, 3.2 height and 32mm thread thanks it’s for rb25det neo

I want to get those fake replica nismo aluminium oil filler caps from eBay but I’m a bit weary on them. Do you think they can hold up to the oil pressure from engine? I mean if oil pressure gets high enough wouldn’t it start leaking or even worse, blow straight off? There’s also the problem of threading when putting it on and off. its just purely for asesthic reasons why I want one but I’d like to hear some thoughts and opinions on them thanks

I’m bringing up a old thread but I’d like to mention that the item that you linked us to looks like a pollen only filter. the other type is pollen, odour and allergy filter. Costs a bit more but it filters out more contaminates. you can get them here http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/cabin-pollen-filter-suit-nissan-skyline-20gt-25gt-25gt-25gt-p-2034.html

I already have a proper ECU - my apexi power fc. But it only has fuel cut and not ignition cut. I want bang and wanks, your warning of f**king the turbo and ‘the works’ is duly noted but I want my fun, but I also want anti lag.

Hi all, I’m going to purchase a bee r rev limiter but not sure which type to get. There’s type B, type H and Type h2. It’s for my r34 gtt rb25det neo. Nengun says type B but I’d like to confirm that’s the right one for me. Are the 3 different types just for vehicle compatibility or do they all have different features. Also does the bee r have 2 step i.e does it allow you to set two rev limits - one for launch control and the other for when the car is moving? Also, does the gain knob(the yellow one) let you adjust how hard fully sick backfires are spit from the exhaust? The eBay page says OEM catalytic converters won’t produce flames, but would my 3 inch turbo back exhaust?( not sure of brand but definitely not OEM) also, is the bee r still compatible if I have a apexi power fc comp and hand controller? I read on a couple of forums they have ‘handshaking’ issues Also, on nengun’s page it says the factory fuel cut limiter is bad for the engine and ignition cut is better, but I heard it’s the other way around from word of mouth, which is true?? Finally, nengun sells them for $340. Is that the price the genuine ones go for because I don’t want to buy a fake one. I asked too many questions but I highly appreciate the help and responses, many thanks

Hey all, ive got a rb25det with full intercooler piping with blitz fmic, intake piping, turbo back 3 inch exhaust and a tune with power fc and I’m running about 12psi on stock op6 turbo. I was wondering if I get a aftermarket exhaust/turbo manifold would it increase performance?Because it’s the only stock piece I have from my whole piping system. I’m not 100% on the power of my car but it should be at least 200rwkw and I’m not planning on building it up to anything 400+ anytime soon. Would the car require a retune if I get one?what products do you recommend? thanks