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zei20l

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Everything posted by zei20l

  1. i had problems when installing the FMIC kit. but none now since. but ill be changing them as they are a PITA. the worm gear ones are better IMO. just get good quality ones
  2. why would i downgrade?? lol i dont think its fuel door related..... but i have a spare that is dry as that i can throw in the car to see if it makes a difference. ill still change the BCM as its probably got a V35 coupe BCM that doesnt realise there are rear doors or something lol
  3. how about measure the pressure before you leave home. if they are down 4psi each, then go put 6 or 8psi in at the servo. drive around normally. check them again the next morning when cold, then release any excess pressure. easy!
  4. no, but i believe the GTR uses it. for those that dont know, nitrogen isnt affected as much (if at all) by heat caused by friction/brakes/etc
  5. spotted a white C34 with shiny wheels turning into quarkers hill parkway tonight around 8. female driver i think!
  6. do the S2 V35s have auto levelling HIDs? my honda did the same thing. i know S1 V35s and M35s have a manual height adjustment switch
  7. on drift days you run a higher pressure in the rear. also some tyres are rated to 50psi. i remember a set i had on my S13, 52psi was the maximum. i ran them at 44psi. if 50psi is over the maximum rating, youre taking a risk IMO
  8. also the spring is quite firm in the stock BOV. i noticed stephens one had a heavier spring than my one. maybe mine was worn out?
  9. did you increase boost when you did the tune?? the boost could push the BOV open and assist with venting the air through the valve
  10. well, its mechanical, no amount of tuning can change that however, being a valve that uses the pressure difference of the throttle body to open/close, thats why i put it down to ECUs. at lower RPM you have throttle limits, andys may limit it differently. his may slam the throttle shut when he backs off, or maybe its more gentle. andy put your stock ECU back in and go for a drive. see if it does the same thing
  11. yeah you need to use the powered antennas in sydney. when i didnt have mine powered, i barely got a channel, with power. i get everything! the language conversion can bypass the screen cut, but this would only be for 'testing' purposes. there are switches available from japan that plugs into the loom and does everything for you.
  12. tune issue for surge? nup i rekon its throttle speed related. maybe the factory/impul doesnt close the throttle as quickly, or maybe much faster. i get a tiny bit of flutter, but i also think its due to BOV placement in the inlet tract. if it was before the FMIC the pressure wave maybe wouldnt be created?
  13. so in the last few months, i have noticed when i unlock my doors with the remote, i hear them unlock, but then quickly lock and then unlock again. all doors except the drivers door. now this lock/unlock thing doesnt happen every time. only mostly. also, my rear doors dont seem to activate the interior light, and thus the car locks again if i havent opened one of the front doors. this happens ALL the time. yes the switches are working fine. BCM issue? I think I might replace. also might check for cut wires up front where the remote start crap is still wasting space craig, i think ill need my spare
  14. 98RON here is around 1.45-1.50 a litre here, id be lucky to get away with $90 fillups.
  15. it looks the same, but doesnt mean it IS the same then again toyota and nissan and a few other japanese brands were using the same remote fob on several of their cars
  16. read the pressure rating of the tyre. it will have a maximum. but too high will cause excess wear in the centre, an underinflated tyre will wear onthe outside. a too firm tyre will be bumpy, especially with aftermarket suspension. i think i run mine at 38 front and 36 rear. but this is when cold. always check when cold
  17. andy did you put the vacuum hose back on the other side??
  18. is never been on the option list that anyone has seen. i rekon you have stock ones. possibly you have aftermarket springs and you dont have as much body rool
  19. they will go up much higher. locally they are over 2500 for the super wagons. there was a seller on ebay with a whole load of M35 coilovers. just buy my nismos aaron lol they are progressive rate so soft till you need them to be hard
  20. what colour are they? thats normally a giveaway
  21. here you go, tein coilovers cheap http://www.importmonster.com.au/view?url=http://page13.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/r76076786&thumb=http://f3.auctions.c.yimg.jp/img361.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/users/9/9/7/3/saori221818-thumb-1300434275357473.jpg&title=4WD M35
  22. liar! you know you need them
  23. to be honest they are real nice on the softest setting. not harsh but quite firm. nothing that even MY wife complained about. hence why its taken me 3 goes to get to the adjustment im at; mostly so she doesnt notice. now that it hurts her chest (like my old car) she is starting to complain lol i dont think the spring rate would affect it much, that said, apparently scott has his BCs set around the middle of the setting, the damper settings may go even softer. but youll need to ask him, i think he has the 1100 model (cant remember the exact model sorry) however dale and myself both have the 1300 BC set. ask craig about the nismos if youre interested in them, also stephen when he is back online as they came from his car.
  24. i wound mine up further. im running about 9-10 in the front and 7-8 in the rear. i think im going to soften the front and stiffen the rear for some sideways bias. front springs are 10kg/mm rears are 12kg/mm one day ill go even firmer and see how that goes, but not on sydney roads lol
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