BOOZTJUNKEY

Man I got the material thru my work and was under 100 cause boss loves me hahahah I have 1 1/2 meters of straight and 9 bends man honestly it would prob be about 200 roulghly If I had to pay ful price probably woulda went mild there is a company on eBay that sell steamy pipe bends u get like 20 for 60 bucks hahahah then get pipe to suit it And I have seen them merges on eBay for 90 bucks man they look ok just depends on wall thickness

Hahahah who cares bout ppl being negative mate u have done well there is always someone that has to be better than u at life .... ;-)

So it's a factory ecu with 550cc inj? It won't start with them go bact to stock or tow to get tuned

I'm undergoing the same task ATM blake . Although im makeing a Low mount similar to Nissans If u look at te factory Nissan there runners aren't even length ! Also tips I've been given is after its all tacked cut the runners back of and weld the flange it's a lot easier to get a neat weld there Weld the colecter first when u make it Also when welding the head flange bolt it down to something Iike 100x100x5 should help prevent warping I'm makin mine out of 36nb pipe that is 3mm wall 304 stainless

Yeah 25s have a different tps from memory .

Hey Chris what's been happining any up dates on the manifold? I finally have got motivated enough to get some material to do one myself :-) The manifold I'm making will be the same low mount design as stock . I have found a good way to cut merges on the band saw at work I'm using 36 nominal nominal bore pipe who's is the 3mm wall so 42 od I'm going with 4 into one collecter ( when u examine the stock mani u will under stand why I went with the 4 instead of 6 into one ) For my merge I'm going with a 20 degree cut angle as well The manifold will be made out of 304 ss and fully perged for maximum strength an reliability Ideally I want to sit pretty much in exactly the same spot as factory :-) Although There will be a lot of test fitting and trial and error I'm hoping all goes well :-) any pointers? Also I pulled the head off a facked rb20 I had and was gunna bolt the mani to that when welding hopefully it will suck some the heat and won't distort too much All the best Bejay

Thanks for the help guys . I would assume there were working properly because they lasted a month or so before its started rough again I will hook a light to them and check relays an see if that helps thanks again

Doubt it that's for rb20det core just take it to a shop and get them to eat lines to suit

I'd say the others is the oil feed line mate oil drain will be the bigger of the 2 . Also definitely get it dyno I would be intersted to see results

Stock plenum will do 300 rwkw fine. But looks like a sack of dicks !!! Hahahah good to see man hope all goes well

No rb25 ecu will fit and rb 30 loom nor will a 25 loom fit on a rb30 engine

Also I belive that it's a rb20det turbo that's been highflowed Because the r33 series one has 45vstamped on comp cover And neo turbo has 45v2 I may get corrected but it's something along them limes

Yeah I rekin it's a highflow as well the back of the comp housing isn't the stock for sure Looks like a t4 core maybe a t3 t4 highflow ? The inducer on comp housing looks like its bored bigger and had a hone as well to suit bigger comp wheel Actuator rod looks different to factory 33 as well As for the lines take it to a shop that does braided lines some autobahns do speed flow fittings and could knock something up for ya

Good advice mate will definitely give that ago I'm pretty sure the plugs had a ceramic cap because a bit was broken of one of the old ones :-/

So u bought this aye gone thru A few sets of hands quickly should be a beast with some tlc

Nice in one piece I hope is there charges being pressed

As above my car ha burnt another set of glow plugs I started her in the middle of the day and rough started (unburnt diesel) I don't under stand why it's doing this I have three possible souloutions but after advice from experienced diesel mechanics 1 . They are over charging and not turning off all the time 2. Diesel pump is leaning the mixture and killing them( which I suspect because it doesn't really leave any diesel smoke under accel and always thought it may run lean ) 3. There not getting enough power and there being killed from being started before glowing ? Any help appreciated

As above I stripped down 2 engines I had hear all parts available minus power steering pump etc and turbos Parts are as follows Rb20det short motor complete from rockers to sump water pump was pulled of but still have it . Unknown ks needs a degrease 150 Rb20 block complete from pistons to sump bores look cyl 1 looks oily so probably got a cracked oil ring X 2 standard cast turbo manifolds 50 each or I can weld on waste gate pipes( what ever size) for an extra 100 so 150 for the modded manifolds and 50 for stock X 2 sets of rockers bit dirty could use a paint or clean 70 bucks a set as they sit For 200 a set I will clean them and bead blast them silver and weld alloy speed flow fittings on to suit catch can applications X 3 factory inlet manis top and bottom halfs one 80 dollars per complete plenum( top and bottom halfs) X3 sets of factory injectors one set ea just pulled of my running engine only have 100k on them want 100 for them The others two sets can be had for 80 for the both due to unknown condition Rb20 set if 6 coils seem to be good condition no burn marks or burnt inner coils should be good except one plug was broken on removal but still usable 100 for the set X2 ac compressors unknown cond 40 each X2 ac cast alloy mounting brackets to block 30 each Timing belt cover rb20 has hks sticker on also hasn't got rb20 stamped on it which I thought was cool 50 take it away X2 j pipes ( crossover pipe ) both rb20 but two different styles one maybe cefiro both have factory bov points 50 each Drift atmo bov adjustable style silver and black good cond worked when I took it of 70 bucks Factory dump pipe good cond 60 Factory heat shiel 10 X2 flywheels need machining 50 each Set of engine mount brackets rb20 70 Turbo oil return pipes x3 10 each Adjustable cam gear for rb good cond 30 Hks rear coil overs for r32 gtr or 300 zx SUIT REBUILD 100 Gtr front coil overs they are factory gtr suit gts or gtr good cond 70 Gts factory front castor bars ok bushes 40 bucksfor the set Factory fuel rails x3 30 bucks each Coil pack brackets x2 sets 25 each X2 factory 65mm throttle body's 40 each There is more but all u can think of for now

Just curiously mate what nominal bore pipe are they made with for rbs ? are the head flanges and pipes port matched? I am welder as well and i think bar a few things these with some r and d will be very well priced and reliable upgrade good stuff

Hahaha fair enough elite it's not gunna be a full build just rings and bearings Engines I've built are erilivent ATM A mate own a performance shop and said if I go throw with it he will supply the parts and over see what I do just to be safe :-) Thanks for the advice mate

Yeah I was thinking repco or bursons . I'd say pistons should be fine it's hasn't had too hard of a life I will know for sure when I pull them I suppose hahaha Thanks for the help everyone

Yeah that's what I thought its got 120k on it I got it at 68k and it was bog stock but who knows if the ks are correct I am suspect on all imports in regards to klms they have hahahah The engine has been awesome never let me down But I figure if I just did the bearings( and rings which was a good idea kiwi rs4t) I shouldn't have to worry too much Hopefully Any ideas where to go for good prices on oem parts? Nissan will charge through the ass ;-)

Nissan ? Probably get a vrs kit for it for just over 400 ! I doubt they can be bought for 80

That's sux man hope u didn't pay too much for it :-(

Uve *