benjiman74

thats a farkin good time and big mph. What street tyres were you using? Also do you have a 2wd switch to warm the rears?

It was good to catch up with some of you again and also put some more faces to other users. Pity about the conditions but everyone seemed to enjoy themselves. Next time Nismoid's coming i'm wearing my snow goggles and a gasmask. :jk: Snowman, when i left i thought you were all arranging your route to crown? It sux you were the only one there. Being an outer suburban bumpkin getting pissed at Crown would have been a nightmare for me to get there and home.

I'm only guessing but i reckon its part of your alarm system, like either a microwave sensor or movement sensor. Follow the wires as dave said, it may go back to your alarm unit.

ive been told a good rule of thumb is look at what horsepower you would like to achieve then match them with the same figure injectors. eg 550 hp then get 550cc injectors etc

two.06, yeah ive read the specs on your car before and your bottom end should handle 25psi no probs. My comments were directed at others whom are running 2530's on stock bottom ends like myself. 20psi on pump fuel with no octane booster is a safe limit and should see 320 - 340rwkw.

I think its more attributable to the 25psi boost pressure. At this boost there wouldn't be much room for error when running pump fuel and a non-forged bottom end.

lol Sk. Yeah i remember that red gtr. I also remember it constantly suffering from turbo problems with that 471kw@flywheel tune b4 they were restricted.

With a safe level of tune 300rwkw would see them out in my opinion.

r34 n1's are .60 and .64

Castrol Synthetic Formula R, 10w - 60w & Ryco filter

Are these compatible with the existing loom or must they be "spliced" in like z32 units?

They are the same. I bought some Ohlins that were in an r34 and fitted them to my r33.

with COD you have to pay and sign before Aus post will hand you the parcel. What happens when you open it to find a housebrick?

Pentae - What was the go with this car in the end? Did you purchase or was there issues?

SnapOn have some loose fit covers but they have a big logo and wouldn't be cheap. I got some plain loose fits from K-Mart.

Good news...sounds better than forking out 15 large. The "slide sleeves", are you referring to the hubs 3 slide plates that are about $5 each? Anyways, put me down for the meetup and piss on afterwards.

Snowman, How did you go with the Supra Getrag - were the parts interchangable with the gtr box? Sorry to whore the thread but I spose if the 34 will be on this cruise it has some relevance. Unless you're taking the scooby-doo!

Sounds like a plan but I think you've got the dates muddled. Should it read Sat 26th June?

Mine hasn't got one either (not that it bothers me) but there's an empty square hole to the left of the steering column where i believe the dimmer would have been installed from the factory. Does anyone know why they remove/cut the wires of the dimmer for compliance?

When reading the latest issue of Zoom last night, their article "street tuner" quoted torque figures as follows:- r32 - 353nm @ 4,400 rpm r33 - 368nm @ 4,400 rpm r34 - 392nm @ 4,400 rpm Can someone identify the differences between these donks that leads to the variance in torque? My understanding was they shared the same components barring the r34 which had b/b turbos. Maybe ecu differences?

No i haven't removed the shaft on an r34 as I don't own one. I sugggest you refer to Snowman's post #11 (he owns an r34 gtr) and vspecv's post #16 (he's had several gtr's including r34's). Both have advised you to remove the front shaft. My personal experience with the r33 is that the ecu will did not go into limp mode, simply adjust your driving style and enjoy. :wassup:

I'll take the E55 any day thanks.

To run a 33/34 gtr in 2wd you simply remove the front propeller shaft. It only takes about 10 mins and will not have any adverse effects.

Sounds like excessive crankcase ventilation. I understand it as follows - as you wind in more boost or your rings become worn pressure from the combustion process will pass the rings and enter the crankcase. From here the excess pressure breathes from the rocker covers into the induction piping (or in extreme cases from your dipstick hole). Most will get caught in the intercooler but some will make it the plenum. If its only a small amount it should be fine but installing a catch can between the rocker cover vent and the induction piping will prevent most oil from i) entering the combustion process which can cause detonation ii) clogging your cooler and restricting flow. Its an indication your motor is becoming tired but i've also seen tight motors breath heavy if you dial in enough boost. Worst case scenario would be broken ringlands and/or rings.

Or Bill Thompson rubbers in Ringwood if you're not fussed about going genuine. They have plenty of different profiles available by the meter.