benjiman74

bump

Mattrix - if your building a twin cam hybrid rb30 this will all be cured with the new head. The bottom end is fine.

For sale - Mines 320km/h speedo to suit r33 gtr odo showing 48,000km. $300 Melbourne

price drop now $2,500 - inspections welcome

For sale - 1 pair of r34 n1's done approx 10,000km's The turbos are in perfect working condition and good for approx 300rwkw These are a direct replacement for your standard turbos featuring bb and steel wheels, oil and water cooled. I'm in Melbourne and asking $2,500.

For sale - 1 pair of used r34 n1 turbos - approx 10,000 km's. The turbos are in perfect working condition and good for approx 300rwkw. I'm located in Melbourne and looking for offers around $3,000.

RB30 na long motor, distributor gear and consequently cam damaged but perfect start for a twin cam 3.0 litre build. $ 200 Lilydale - Melb

Dude, with all due respect, 2nd hand plugs that have done 45,000k's aren't worth a pinch of nanny goat shit.

Have 1 set of Tein Coil Overs to suit 33/34 GTR for sale. Features: i) Height adjustable ii) Helper Springs included iii) No leaks, noises $700 Firm.

I have adjustable cam gears that were altered to take out most of the bump I had in the middle of my curve and improved power by 30kw from 3000rpm and 40kw at peak. Like you i'm also running a power FC, hks dumps, single muffler, straight 3.5 inch system. Seems like I have a lot of lag for the power its making - What are you getting out of your stock turbo's and at what boost level?

If your battery is dead flat how do you power up the coils, and get power to the FC with a clutch start anyway?

rb26dett - Yes i agree that with either turbo setup upgraded cams and injectors will enhance their full potential. Back to my original point who has seen benefits from gt-rs over 2530's (same level of other mods)? Remember meshmesh has stated he already has 2530's and sard injectors, is it worth buying another set of turbos (gt-rs's) and venturing into unproven territory? Should we believe everything HKS state in their latest catalogue or base our judgements on proven combinations?

Yeah use Redline Water Wetter to fix your overheating problem and should you ever have blowby problems a bottle of Stop Smoke should do the job! Seriously find the cause of the problem rather than drilling holes in your thermostat or buying overpriced additives. Remember other cars without these additives aren't having overheating problems. my 2c anyway

Hiroshima Screamer - If there is no gas in the system you cannot damage the aircon compressor as there is a low pressure switch which will stop the compresser from cutting in. KBNR32 & junkie13 - Have a mate turn your aircon on while you are looking at the front of the aircon compressor, if its working then you will hear a "click" and see the front clutch engage, the revs should also pick up approx 200 rpm. If the clutch doesn't engage then you have:- i) a stuffed compressor ii) no gas in the system and therefor the low pressure switch is not allowing the compressor to kick in. To check if there is a problem in the ecu run a live 12V connection direct to the compressor's input and see if the clutch engages. Hope this helps as I have been there myself.

There is one for sale in the latest edition of unique cars - page 143. its in Adelaide, has compliance, states 34,000km's asking $37,500. I believe most of the rs4's are auto which would prob suit your towing needs but I think you were really after hands on experience - sorry haven't seen or driven one - pretty thin on the ground at this stage. The 260RS must be a temptation! Edit - Sorry when i reread the ad its not turbo.

Syneykid - Thanks for your detailed response. A little more advanced than my RB26 with bog stock internals running on pump fuel! Hope you can help with the following Q's:- Can you confirm there are different r34 n1 housings or is this a myth? Could some of my lag be attributed to the spring rate on the wastegate actuators? Thanx in advance.

rb26dett - Agreed but meshmesh made no mention of touching internals so maybe gt-rs's are not suited to his application.

With respect to point 1 has anyone had much success with the gt-rs's yet. From reading ozgtr97v thread he wasn't impressed with the response vs power they produced - 1 bar wasn't produced till 5,000rpm. at 1 bar he made 250rwkw and 1.4bar 300kw. 2530's seem to be the proven performer.

wrxhoon - I believe there is a few variations in the housing size of n'1's. Consequently some say they are super responsive but run out of steam up top while it appears yours and mine are laggier. I must admit that once on boost they pull clean to 8,000 rpm.

wrxhoon - i have r34 N1's and they hit 1.4 bar at between 5,000 - 5,250rpm. Looking at Sydneykids post I note he has upped the compression ratio.

Sydenykid - Thats interesting, I have the same mods as what you've listed but they don't start boosting till well over 4,000rpm. It made 285rwkw @ 1.4Bar on Racepace's Dyno b4 Christmas with a pretty steep ramp in the middle of the curve. What power are u making on your n1's?

I had trust twin pods in cold air box and went back to standard air box with K&N element. I made a cold air feed from flexible duct from my front bar to the cutout in the front skirt and the standard box also has the cold air feed on top. Makes the same power and keeps the TOG off my back.

I should add when removing the stupid turbo timer on mine the pos hit earth on the steering column. When trying to start car afterwards power fc was clicking but no action. Ended up being blown fuse. Maybe on your install you shorted the loom too. Hope this helps.

Check your main32V 30A fuse

btw i've got a mines short shift on mine and it jammed halfway through the gate into third at sandown last sat. Maybe nissan OE is the go?