SargeRX8

Waiting to turn left from a single lane road onto a multilane road. Two left lanes are empty, one car in right most lane. That one car in right most lane decides to move into the left most lane, causing you to wait even longer. Dumb f**ks who don't know where to stop to turn their vehicle. i.e from a single lane road wanting to turn right, they sit in the left most of the lane EVEN THOUGH there is more than enough room for left turners to lean left and right turners to stay in the middle. People who reverse in the middle of traffic because they cross the white line by 1cm. People who tail gate when driving up steep ramps, e.g parramatta westfield carpark ramp. People who beep their horns in drive at mcdonalds, starting a chain of beeping wankers. The beeping won't cook your food faster. People who double park then open their doors and get angry at you when you drive past, in a single lane road. People who put my windscreen wipers up People who text at lights, people who text while driving People using left lane must turn left or ending lanes to overtake waiting traffic. If I see you do this, I will block you. Prime example, westbound on parramatta road x james ruse drive T intersection. People who you overtake for driving under the speed limit, then being overtaken by the same person doing 100km/h only to have them slow down infront of you again. Overtaking you isn't meant as an insult, its meant as a get the f**k out of the way. People who give learner drivers the wrong advice from the get go. This list could go on forever.

Those are the right points, they're standard locations on most cars Ive worked on. Behind the front wheels and infront of the rear wheels. And yeah don't jack up on the chassis rail. Good to see in that pic up there Booki that your jacking points are still in good shape, both my cars are flats because the wrong jack was used. I now lift from the rear under the diff and the front, where ever I see fit.

If its a standard car with standard ECU he can run the diagnostic and see if it throws any Airbag related codes. If not and the thing is fine, he can always trace the wire back or dodgy the wiring to get it to light up. Doesn't it light up momentarily though, on ignition?

Try that since thats an easy approach but I believe what that will do is fix the stalling due to higher idle but won't affect the hunting.

Pretty sure the air bag light only turns on when there is a fault in the system or an airbag is missing.

Does the car run absolutely fine with the AC off? If so then there is a chance the car was not tuned to compensate for the AC being on. I know the Apexi PFC has an autolearn feature to set this up for you and control the engine when the AC is on or off, not sure how it goes with the Haltech but the same principle should apply. As long as the car runs fine with the AC off, I'd be looking at the tune since the compressor will throw out the load tables and could affect your idle.

Its about 85c otherwise, today. The needle doesn't move up from its usual location. If it wasn't for the PFC controller displaying the temp as a number, I wouldn't think twice about the temps. Like you suggest, it probably is very normal in the given situation but just want to see if there is anything that could be done to improve capacity.

Hey guys What should I start looking at? The car hit about 89c on the FC hand controller and did tick to 90c a couple times. This only happens when its hot and I run the AC. I am in Sydney and the temps outside are about 36 - 38c so its a f**king stonker today. Is this of a concern? The water pump is near new. I have no knowledge of the condition of the thermostat, the coolant is very fresh still nice and green, no rusting signs etc. Without the AC on and on a normal temp day, say 25c day, the car runs about 78 - 80c. Is it unnecessary to go with a larger radiator? The fact it runs fine when the AC is off and on cooler days tells me this might be a issue out of my hands and the only thing I can do is increase cooling capacity by going a larger radiator... Anybody have any input? The car has a front mount and the fan has somewhat been hacked to allow the cooler pipes to pass. I'll probably get the air compressor to blow out the fins of the intercooler and radiator incase there shit restricting flow. I'm not using the plastic catch tray underneath the car, does that have any effect on cooling?

Coolant smells really strange, you just know its coolant. It also feels oily to touch. There are two methods to fix, the hard method is to replace the heater core. The easy method is to bypass heater core then use an air compressor into the core to shoot the rest of the water out. Also to clean up the coolant do what I do, go to the local 24hr carwash and throw two bucks into the vacuum machine.

Awesome dude a list is something good to start with. I've got both a shit alarm and window lifters. I suspect my alarm is the issue. Ill check my amps and ecu. This car doesn't have abs.

Ok what the f**k the battery is losing charge after sitting for two days. When on voltage is 14.4. I hope my voltmeter has an ammeter setting. What are the usual causes for battery drain?

That could definitely be the heater core. I had the same in one of my cars. Wet passenger footwell and foggy windows. Get a white paper towel and press it onto the wet area. Check its colour. Smell it and feel it. You'll know if its coolant if it is. It could be your ac drain but I doubt you've used your ac enough for that.

Change the plugs. They will not last very long at all in a rich state. Then do as suggested, pressure test your intake. After you change the plugs warm it up and give it a few good revs and see how it responds then take it for a spin.

You could have ruined all the wiring in the car. The casing on the wires may be melted. Anything electronic would have been prone to serious damage dude.

Actually from what I can tell those buttons on the second pic look like power memory and scan. If you can tell us what it says chances are it says what it is or we can easier id the item.

Second one looks like a turbo timer. First one looks like some sort of solar panel. Doesn't seem wired up either.

Why are they cutting corners? Sounds like a shit shop who doesn't care. They also caused this. I changed my water pump when I did my belt not because it needed to but more the might as well factor. Also I never needed to crank to crack the nut. Big breaker bar to take it off and properly torqued on. I'd also bet they used a rattle gun or just guestimated the torque when putting the nut on the crank.

Can't you flush it with no radiator in there? That way you don't risk putting any old dirty shit in from the other end. Also the bleed method you guys described isn't thorough. Air in your cooling system has potential to raise temps which is not good. To bleed correctly, fill the rad with water, start the engine and was the coolant drops, top it up. While its running and not up to temp yet there is a small screw to the right of the throttle body. This is the bleed valve. It is the highest point in the water cooling system in your car. Any air in your car will rise by law of physics. You release this valve(its just a 10mm nut), NOT ALL THE WAY just enough so its open and you will hear air hissing out sometimes. When the engine starts coming up to temp, the whole system will build pressure and it will rapidly start spitting coolant and blowing bubbles. When the bubbles stop and all you see is the system pissing out coolant, tighten it up and ensure during the whole process you were topping up coolant as necessary. I repeat this a couple times. At all times during the bleeding process ensure your heater is on to max heat and operating. Monitor your temps for the next few days and make sure they're within normal range. DO NOT OPEN THIS VALVE WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT. There is a warning on the valve saying this. Just check the bottom left or right corner of the radiator the plug should be there. If you're changing your radiator just drop the whole radiator and shove a hose in the top feeder hole and it will all drain out through the bottom.

Yeah, I'd suggest get some HEL braided lines, DOT 5.1 fluid and redo the whole system.

Can you put a pic up of your engine bay? Also a while back when I was intending to go high mount ext gate turbo I planned on using parts I found in the US which were a 2" flex pipe which was designed as a kit for external gate setups. The way it looked was pretty good. One end had a bung which was welded to a piece of pipe from your gate and another bung welded into your exhaust and was at a 45 degree angle(they came in different angles). Then you use the hose which was x cm long and attached one end to your WG and the other to the bung in the exhaust. Good thing about the setup was you could undo it all in a matter of minutes and go straight to a atmo vent setup if you wished. The guy who was selling them stopped and I have never seen anything close to them since. This was about 2 years ago.

Different story of their valve is damaged or not sealing. On a properly functioning valve in good working order it should hold the pressure just fine.

You dont need to bash it. When on boost theres 12 or what ever boodt you're running coming through the silicone hose on your bov pushing down on it to help keep it shut. So as long you've got some spring pressure she'll be fine.

I'm missing about 60rwkw with my hypergear turbo. Stock bottom and top, power fc, full 3" dump to a 3" exhaust which expands up to a 3.5" or 4" not sure(HKS exhaust) same cat. No mufflers in the exhaust. The intake is a full 3" metal intake with an apexi on the end. Base timing was setup on the first tune, just couldn't get the expected number on the dyno.

Yes the SSQV can be plumbed back. The front cover is removeable and people fit an outlet into it which permits plumb back. Although where its mounted at the moment is very far from where you want to plumb back to, I would suggest throwing a stock piece back in there. I run a stock piece with 20psi, no worries.

The oil leak is your rocker cover gasket. Piece of piss to change. Mine was leaking. 10 mins later all sorted.