SargeRX8

Does nissan spares charge out the arse for these? I'll be changing the fuel filter on sunday.

I really need advice as to where to go next. I just did another intake pressure test and I am confident there is no boost leak. I put a new set of plugs in and still no dice. The loom looks old but there isn't any damage to any cables. The AFM looks clean. This could become an expensive procedure. I just don't know what to try and in what order. It could be CAS related. It could be AFM. It could be loom. All those components would cost me nearly $1000 to replace. Hell it could even be the ECU. My car is modified, with an SS2 turbo, 740cc injectors, 040 pump, Power FC, Z32 AFM. If I was to replace the coil loom, should I go second hand genuine, aftermarket or brand new?

Yeah it farts and just won't go. I can push it and it will climb but slowly and extremely rough. Just gave it a little push on the way home, sits on about 10.9 - 12afr when it starts shitting it self. Performance wise sell nice looms, but I am unsure of their quality. I'm gonna block off the engine and do a 17psi charge on my isolated intake.

Im using a z32. Ill do a run tonight and see if its leaning out on my wideband. Hopefully its not a fuel/lean issue

New plugs new coils and still cant get past 4000rpm. Ive checked for boost leaks and found nothing. Ill try again on saturday for leaks. What else can cause this? My coil loom looks like shit. Broken clips and what not. Nothing in my car has changed. This came about all of sudden about 3 weeks ago. I dont think my coils had anything to do with it. Unless my testing has fouled my plugs which isn't likely.

Its not in a bad spot. I would try some polycement(a plastic weld glue) or as you suggest, silicone. If you see the price tag on good condition headlights, it won't justify it. Unless its a show car, just patch her up and be done with it. That tape won't hold.

My rego is due next month. Gonna be interesting since the usual shop I went to shut down and the other shop I used to go to was keen to fail me because my windscreen wipers. Mind you he sprinkled drops of water on the glass and essentially ran them dry. Pretty sure it was his technique to try sell me something I didn't need.

Are DRL's a defectable item on cars not fitted with them from factory?

Yeah my second set I just bought off eBay for the exact same price from a seller in Melbourne with relatively good reputation. He also sells Z32, not genuine, listed as aftermarket parts. The coil packs are listed as Genuine Nissan made in Japan components. When they arrive, I'll be trying to pinpoint the faulty coil using the new ones, one by one. When I find the one causing the fault, I will dissect it and also dissect one of my original nissans which is no good and comparing the internals. Even genuine components could be prone to failure. The only thing which would make me iffy is when sellers sell oem components, not listed as genuine and come on oem packaging. I'm not dissatisfied with the performance of my current coils. I got a good 3 years about of them, about 45000km. The previous yellow jackets I had lasted about half a year.

Is there a visual test to determine fakes from genuine? My first set came off here.

Like alot of clutch builders, they probably use tried and tested frames and install their own pads onto the plates.

I'm running wastegate pressure.

Will this smurf blood shit fix a noise on my top gears(1 3 5)? The gears on the bottom make no sound but the top gears sound noisy almost sandy.

How long should one of these clutches last you, assume city and street driving, little to no clutch drops. My carbon clutch which I had made about 2 - 3 years ago now is still holding up but the grabbing point seems to have shifted so it might be time for me to consider a new clutch. How much are these and what power can they hold?

Just did a intake pressure test. Only place which started squeezing air out was the oil filler hole in the top of the engine. I could not hear any hissing anywhere else around the engine bay. I took all the plugs out, checked the gaps and put it all back together. The miss is still there on boost. Looks like I might have a dud coil. I'll be ordering another set of OEM's. Ah well.

Hi Stao, Things look like they have really thrived in the last few years. I've still got the first ever SS2 strapped onto my car. I want to ask if you think it would need to be opened up and serviced anytime soon. I am solid with my oil changes and really haven't had any issues. I'll be checking over my car this weekend for a issue with ignition and while I'm at it will be doing an intake leak test. I'll check for shaft play. Also have you got any stickers of your new logo? That looks sick, I'd stick that on my car! As a side question, could I get away with running 740cc Nismos and E85 or not gonna happen.

Already whipped up a jig, just need an air compressor and I'll fill her up with 14psi and see what it does.

Can I just test from the turbo inlet all the way back or should I disconnect from the TB, block it off then test from the turbo? It was a kick in the balls to hear it miss when I took it out last week, I was really hoping it was just the plugs. I think I should isolate the intake from the engine otherwise the air will just piss out the engine.

I'm not, really. I assume its spark related since the symptoms are exactly the same as when one of my yellow jackets was on its way out. I have no issues building boost, its just the 4krpm barrier, it farts and carries on. I will take the whole thing apart this weekend and see if I can see any issues with the coils, I'll regap the plugs, I'll extend the spring in the coils a little more and I'll go over for boost leaks.

Its spark related. Gap the plugs down or try to pinpoint the cylinder at fault. If it does it at idle, disconnect each coil pack plug, one at a time, and see which one causes no change to the engines sound. I'm fighting the same issue but under load. I'll be sealing up my coilpacks, if no dice, splitfires it is.

Its best to get the correct pump. I am not sure about that one. Don't get the wrong unit as you'll be without a car until you get the correct pump. 2009 thread!

Hey all, Gotta a question, my R33 has had brand new genuine nissan coil packs in it. The other day it developed a miss on boost so I thought it was the plugs since they were nearing the second oil chance/10000km. I changed the spark plugs to a fresh new set, gapped to .833 and took it for a drive only to find the miss is still there. It takes effect at about 4000rpm as soon as boost is ramped up. I run an SS2 on 15psi. Low down and cruising the car is fine, just getting weak spark. It will free rev to 7000rpm without an issue. I can close the gap a little tighter but really want to avoid this. The coil packs were brand new and about 3 years old. The car is always run with the coil pack cover removed. Would my better option be a set of spitfires or have OEM's become more affordable? Are the Spitfires improved over the standard coils? Will they last longer and eliminate the need to gap the plugs?

I haven't checked the timing since it was done nearly two years ago as I don't have a timing light. Part of me thinks it may be something to do with the CAS but I don't know if a CAS issue wil throw a check engine warning. I'll do a pressure test this weekend after I make a new jig. I can't find the old one. I really hope its not a warped anything. I'm gonna go over it again and tighten everything around the plenum up, I remember changing the gasket there and the thing was an absolute bitch to do and it was summer. Maybe I didn't apply enough tension to a screw. I don't know how to determine if the check engine light is related to this issue since the check engine has only happened twice in about 3 - 4 years of owning the car.

Hey all, Its been some time since I've posted here but I'm at it now and I need some direction. This ones got me stumped. My car has, for quite some time now(more than a year), been idling poorly. In a nut shell. In more detail, the car will never start first go in the morning unless I'm lucky and mashing the throttle or its a warm/hot day. No idea if this is related but lets move on. When my car does start and run while its cold, its perfect, revs hold fine until it warms and they come down to the normal range. I can then go on my drive, 5 minutes to 1 hour what ever it is and more often than not my revs will not be stable. If I watch the needle closely I can see the needle jitter as well as hear it in the engine and see it in the vacuum gauge. Today it was significantly worse. My car pulls a nice high amount of vacuum, usually at -28 to -30 on my boost gauge and -96 on my Profec B spec 2. Today it decided to pull between -20 and -24 and -76 and my revs came down to about 700 and were fluctuating between 700 - 780. It was audibly noticeable. I thought I may have popped off a hose or something so I pull over and listen over the whole engine bay and it sounded just fine. I gave it throttle and there was no sign of boost leak either. I really don't know where to go with this. I do not run a O2 sensor and my car has all the bolt ons(mods below). I have no idea where to go from here. I don't know if this is a vacuum leak since it doesn't happen all the time. Another thing to note is I have ran 100octane E10 fuel from United over at Drummoyne. That stuff is awesome. I know people hate it but I've ran probably 3 tanks of that stuff and I get more KM's and it seems to kick my knock out the window. The AAC valve has been cleaned, the plenum gasket is fresh as the old one busted out. The TB to plenum gasket is fresh. I need a second set of ears as I suspect there MAY be a leak somewhere under the plenum but for the life in me I can not locate where the sound is coming from and spraying gas in the area does not cause the revs to change. If anyone can make any suggestions as to where I can start looking with this, that would be great. Also to throw this in there, the other day when I started my car in the morning the engine light came on for about 3 seconds and the moment it came on I heard a lean pop from the exhaust. I have no idea what caused the light to come on. It has happened once in the past for about 3 seconds while driving and during that 3 seconds the car ran like absolute dog shit. The car is an R33 GTST with the following: Unopened RB25DET Power FC 740cc nismo injectors Z32 afm HG SS2 3" to 4" exhaust Enclosed Pod Thanks all!

2 too low, 4 and 5 too high. 50k? WHY YOU ASK CRAZY MONEY. Ive got a White R33, the only thing I hate about the car is the colour, but the price was right so I wasn't gonna let that fade me.