SargeRX8

It doesn't sound like spool and the boost gauge is barely showing any activity. It sounds more like a friction type of squeal. Kind of like squealy brakes.

That's fine. You need to remember he tuned the car on dyno. The load will be differen than road. My car is set to 12psi, I've got the same controller, and sometimes in will hit 11.8 and there abouts. With a full car it will get to about 13.5 but it doesn't hold this level. Watch the boost gauge, it spikes and drops. It's fine. If it concerns you, turn the main % down a little and try again. Don't play with th other settings. Grab the knob n turn it down slowly.

To this point, Ive never heard from these guys. Looking at their site though, I'd prefer to go with a tuner more specific to my car(crd/advan). Get some more votes in, but most probably I will be booking in this tuesday for an advan tune. If it goes ahead, I will post my results in terms of power and then my fuel consumption with the same driving conditions. Technically, on a less rich tune I should make more power than what I am making now on the same amount of boost(225rwkw @ 14psi). Lets see what happens!

Get an MBC rated to 1bar and it will provide benefits if you plan to boost past stock. Its a waste of money spending $400 on a EBC on a stock turbo. Money which could have been invested into a highflow of the stock turbo....

Hey all, Ive noticed a high pitch squeal in my car which wasn't there when I got it. I'm certain its not the gearbox and I'm 95% sure its the turbo. I had my rubber induction pipe and the sound was loud. Changed to aluminium and its still audible but hardly, so I know the aluminium tubing is muffling the sound. Anyway, the sound is like a seeeeeeeek sound which happens ONLY at 1800rpm and occurs to 2000rpm, depending on throttle position. If I go harder on the throttle when the sound occurs, it stops. Same as if I ease off slightly. What could it be? I know its a sound coming out of my intake side because the change from rubber to metal induction pipe made a big difference to the sound. The turbo is a high flowed VL turbo with a GT3071 BB turbine etc. Ive checked for shaft play and there is literally no shaft play. There is no fouling of the comp wheel hitting the comp housing. I cant check the exhaust side though but I doubt it would be as the sound would not have been altered(would it) after the induction pipe had been changed. It hits boost fine, it holds boost fine, its been like this for a little over 3 months and hasn't really gotten any worse/better. The turbo wheel spins very freely by hand. What could it be? Should I be worried? Should I be hearing any noises from my turbo? Bearings on their way out?

Got the heater core?

Refer to my graph. Deaths will continue at the usual rate. Fines will rise. People will not slow down. The RTA will get lazy at enforcing this. The fines will drop. Nothing related to death has changed. Why? People still don't slow down. Speed cameras don't save lives, driver training and vehicle control will play the big difference. Notice how most fatalities are P platers? THE INEXPERIENCED DRIVERS? Cameras aren't going to help if the driver cant control their car. Shit rule. Pointless and stupid. Too many times Ive had to hit it 10km over the limit to get the f**king truck out of my ass.

Hey all, Finally saved the $ to get my car tuned. Ive called up and been to a few places and Ive narrowed it down to the above. Advan Performance are asking $620. They will load up a preconfigured map which matches the specs of my car and do 3 - 4 hours of modifications on the dyno and an hour or two of cold start tuning. CRD asked $750 and up for a full custom dyno tune which takes 6 - 8 hours. Unigroup said $700 up for a full custom dyno tune Toshi(member on here) said $500 for a full custom street tune + dyno tune. People often say go for a full custom tune. My car has simple bolt on mods so I could save some dosh by going to advan performance and their work is very reputable. I'm not asking for people here to tell me to search and read. Those are the options. Choose one as you wish and if you like, have your say!

I'm getting Advan performance to build be a custom sealed pod box. Who would then need to engineer it? Would it need to be engineered or would it be fine as it will be well sealed.

Hmm it could be the alignment. I had the wheels balanced a while back and they checked the alignment and it was a teeny bit off but they suggested not to pay for them to recalibrate it over that. Recently, though, I had the old gel filled castor bushes changed to solid aluminium castor rods. It can't be the suspension as I suspected I had a suspension issue in the past but had it checked out by pedders. They done a full inspection and said my suspension is in top notch condition and very firm. How often would I need to change the brake pads?

Does this do anything? My dad got like a brochure of the product from a company he buys from. The product claims to save fuel by up to 28%, increase power by 20%, reduce harmful emission by 98%, extend engine life and protect the environment. The guy is importing them from America to try sell in Australia and he was showing us the brochure. It claims to create millions of tiny nano clusters in the fuel that explode befure and during combustion which increase the turbulence and generates smaller fuel droplets. I'm not advertising this product, I just want to know if anyone has heard of it. I generally prefer not to add any additives into my fuel system.

Its a bloody longshot but I need a new remote. Does anyone here know where to source one or have a remote from an old alarm system? Mines pooping it self and I don't feel the need to throw money on a new alarm with half the features of this one.

The other day I was on the M4. Was cruising at about 100 - 110km/hr. Had to suddenly break hard and the car does not stay straight when braking. The car must be braking harder on one side or something. What should I do? How should I diagnose and fix this issue? The brakes were fully rebuilt at 100000km. The car is now at 118000km. Could the brake pads be worn? Could the brake system need bleeding? Slowing down slowly is fine. Slowing down hard at speeds like 80km/h the car slows fine. Its just greater speeds.

that was us

All of which will not affect him in any way, shape or form. The o ly affect to him clearly is the fuel. There's nothing wrong with opening a thread and asking for advice.

Was our first cruise lol, can't blame us.

lol.

Dude, I found all the topics about how to clean them and what to use. But that's not what I'm after. I'm after a shop or a person who will do a professional job on them for me.

Hey all, Well after going on the SAU cruise and seeing all those clear headlights, I want the same! Ive read all the tutorials on how to DIY it and I'm fairly sure I can do it. But after very close inspection, it looks like the inside of the lights are yellowing and have very fine cracks. I can do the outside, sure, but I don't feel like ripping the headlight open and doing the inside as it would be a pain in the ass to do the corners. Does anyone know any places in Sydney who will do the lights?

Awesome day and an awesome drive. Pretty much shit my pants on the bendy roads haha. Intense driving right there. Someone post up pics, I'll put up mine when I can!

Does the BOV have the other add on thing? If so, consider it sold. Let me know.

Yeah, I used alot of sarcasm. There was my self and NoClue. I waited at maccas til 2:15 and no one came down so drove to the meeting point. Got some miami flavoured pics.

After a blitz dd bov!

Can anyone tell me if there are tolls on the way? Judging by the path, I've been all the way to picton road, there aren't tolls... I need confirmation. Ill try brin a gti, evo 9, my r33 and a 351gt

Wow the attendance was amazing.